Shin-ei/Univox Uni-Vibe [Replica Files]

Original effect designs complete with verified schematics, layouts and instructions. All project were freely contributed by members and cannot be used for commercial purposes without consent of the respective owners of the copyright.
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Max Cohen
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Post by Max Cohen »

:shock: sick, is that based on real UV chassis dimensions?
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Post by Greenmachine »

so awesome man :applause:
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Post by Dirk_Hendrik »

Job well done! High "like" factor. Compliments!
Sorry. Plain out of planes.

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Post by vintagecharlie »

Wow, looks really cool! Looks nice without paintin the chassis too. I'm planning to do also a proper clone including as close to a clone of the chassis as i will be able to get, including the louvers in the back of the chassis (that should be a PITA to make).
Is there any hope for some sound clips?

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Post by Max Cohen »

vintagecharlie wrote: Is there any hope for some sound clips?

Here you go



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Post by Volk »

Thank you for appreciating my work. This is not an exact copy of Univibe, this is "my reissues":). All dimensions are approximated by photo. Now I do not have time to finish the project and record the sound:(

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Post by vintagecharlie »

Max Cohen wrote:
vintagecharlie wrote: Is there any hope for some sound clips?

Here you go



:D

i hope it's the least that your boards can do to sound and music :thumbsup

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Post by DaveAir79 »

HI, I'm David from ARGENTINA (Buenos Aires). Where R U from?
It's a Coincidence but I'm making a replica of a UniVibe too.
At the same time and phase of my production I found your proyect is in the same phase. :D

I've got a lot of originals 2SC828 (q) (r) (s) (t) and other 828A (all made by Matsushita 70's production) and 2SC539 (same manufacturer)
The only thing that I can't find is the F---N' Switch! I know is a MIYAMA DS-015 but is discontinued. :(
I recommend to take care with chinese sellers because what they offer are fake.
Did you find the switch?
I think people from fatguitar (Japanese company that reproduces y sell Heaven's Vibe) may be bougth all the Miyama DS-015 Stock to be the only manufacturer that have the sw.

Regards,
DAVE.-
Volk wrote:Hello guys!
On holidays I spent some time in my friend garage and almost finished my Univibe project. I made my own enclosure from sheet polished stainless steel and decided not paint it. Now i need only proper vibrato/chorus switch, fuse and lamp. While the parcel has not arrived, speed control and simple switch in their places.
*sorry for that gold chicken head :D

Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
DAVE

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Post by kymar »

Did you find the switch?
This one made by Miyama http://www.banzaimusic.com/Footswitch-MIYM-10.html
Maybe it's what you need, but I myself have used another contact switch looks like this Image

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Post by DaveAir79 »

Hi everybody,
Here is a link with the specifications of the rocker switch DPDT
http://www.miyama.co.jp/pdf/DS-013,015,020.pdf
Regards,
DAVE.-
DAVE

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Post by kymar »

Oops, I was thinking of the cancel switch in the foot controller, not rocker switch :lol:

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Post by jordanelegratteux »

Sinner thanks for all the great work you've done, your website is a REAL GOLD MINE
I always wanted to build an univibe with the real pcb!
I am going to do it this month but before buying all the components I've got a few questions.

-according to you folks what is the best replacement diode for the 3 rare SM150?i was thinking of 1n4148 or 1n914 like the forum vibe?
-ive got some 2s828 transistor , but according to you folks for Q1 a good replacement is 2n5088?
-for the transformer, a 20/22 v will do the job, but what about the ma rating?

Sorry for all these questions, usually when i'm building pedals, i always try to finds the answers by myself,
swapp the componements ect . But i'am actually in Australia, and its a pain in the ass to find parts there,
i dont want to wait another mounth because of a 0,10 bucks part :slap:

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Post by beedotman »

jordanelegratteux wrote:Sinner thanks for all the great work you've done, your website is a REAL GOLD MINE
I always wanted to build an univibe with the real pcb!
I am going to do it this month but before buying all the components I've got a few questions.

-according to you folks what is the best replacement diode for the 3 rare SM150?i was thinking of 1n4148 or 1n914 like the forum vibe?
-ive got some 2s828 transistor , but according to you folks for Q1 a good replacement is 2n5088?
-for the transformer, a 20/22 v will do the job, but what about the ma rating?

Sorry for all these questions, usually when i'm building pedals, i always try to finds the answers by myself,
swapp the componements ect . But i'am actually in Australia, and its a pain in the ass to find parts there,
i dont want to wait another mounth because of a 0,10 bucks part :slap:
1. I will use 1n4001
2. BC109C should do the job, too. pinout is important here
3 I think usually 150ma is enough for vibe, but I'm not sure...

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DaveAir79
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Post by DaveAir79 »

Hi everybody! Welcome to the UniVibe Show,
Here is the ultimate step of my Shin-ei replica...

You would see some variations and mods I explain in next post.
The cream chicken head is only for picture. The corrects are in black with the knob line in glow green (like clock watches)
Speed control in panel, and... for the Fu_ _ _ ng Miyama switch DS015, that is discontinued and impossible to obtain I will place a pair of VSD caps and leds (to indicate Chorus / Vibrato modes) with a Nkk DSDP

Enjoy it! And have a great weekend!

DAVE from Buenos Aires (ARGENTINA)
Correct PCB and vintage NOS components
Correct PCB and vintage NOS components
Gold electrolitic caps
Gold electrolitic caps
Original Matsushita/Panasonic Transistors
Original Matsushita/Panasonic Transistors
Original Matsushita/Panasonic Transistors
Original Matsushita/Panasonic Transistors
Front Panel in aluminium with double anodized Black and Natural
Front Panel in aluminium with double anodized Black and Natural
Front Panel in aluminium with double anodized Black and Natural
Front Panel in aluminium with double anodized Black and Natural
Front panel with the correct chassis enclosure
Front panel with the correct chassis enclosure
Chassis painted in textured polyurethane grey
Chassis painted in textured polyurethane grey
Another panel on the left (for a friend of mine)
Another panel on the left (for a friend of mine)
DAVE

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Post by DaveAir79 »

If someone have any doubts about chassis measures, components, methods of design in general of the UV, do not hesitate to write me.
Cheers!

DAVE.-
DAVE

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Post by fakcior »

Sorry for blasphemy, but what's the best way to add LED rate indicator? I've seen that madbean was taking voltage from R44 to ground. Some folks suggest to pul LED in series with bulb. Don't think it's a good idea.
I'm planning to use CANCEL as bypass, so it'd be good if both work together properly.
Regards

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Post by kymar »

fakcior wrote:Sorry for blasphemy, but what's the best way to add LED rate indicator? I've seen that madbean was taking voltage from R44 to ground. Some folks suggest to pul LED in series with bulb. Don't think it's a good idea.
I'm planning to use CANCEL as bypass, so it'd be good if both work together properly.
Regards
Place resistor an LED parallel to cancel switch (not bypass)

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Post by sinner »

DaveAir79 wrote:If someone have any doubts about chassis measures, components, methods of design in general of the UV, do not hesitate to write me.
Cheers!

DAVE.-
Is this a kind of secret and you cant post this here?

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Post by DaveAir79 »

Hi fakcior,
How R U?
I'm Dave from Buenos Aires ARG. I'm new in the forum... I'm who place the nice pictures of a replica UV.
I'm plannig to do the same mod you wish (the rate indicator.)
I see there are many ways to do that... I'm not design the correct circuit yet but, a nice way to make it is to put another LDR on the top and center of the aluminium box (Light Shield) -first you have tu drill it) and then paste it with a little of epoxy cement.
Now you can use some point of the power supply to draw some DC voltage with a LED in serie (may be a Zener or a resistor divider to limit led maximun voltage)
I'm very very shure that is incorrect to touch any other point of the circuit. Specially the lamp driver... I have seen many wrong mods (on the lamp driver) that works! But this changes the correct intensity and functionality of the LFO (Low Frecuency Oscilator)
So I recomend to develope some easy circuit without touching the original.

Hope that helps.
Regards,
DAVE.-
PS1: Sorry about my english.
PS2: if you have questions write me anytime...
DAVE

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Post by fakcior »

I think that connecting it somewhere in circuit is a good way. Supra-Vibe has it and I'm pretty sure it doesn't have extra LDR for rate LED like in some other boutique builds. In addition Castledine possibly used mentioned technique with connecting it parallel to Cancel switch - check guts, wires from cancel and rate LED are connected to PCB very close to each other. I've written email to Stuart, maybe he'll give away his way of implementing this feature.
Regards

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