DIY Compressor Kit Wiring Diagram professional Analog D.I.Y Guitar Pedal Effect Landtone Ttone Amazon [documentation]
Some ppl on amazon keep griping about this pedals lack of proper wiring instruction, it is a beginner level tho and so for beginners a wiring traced diagram sometimes helps which is what i am sharing.
The branding is Landtone but amazon labels it as TTone for some reason, They also claim it is a professional analog circuit (¿) I put it all in the title hoping people googling it can find it using those key words. It comes from China & works well to my tone deaf ears.
This pedal ive read is a orange squeeze clone, (edit: been told its NOT. is an Optical Compressor) its $27 USD (as of 2022) there is a black one it also comes in pink. Which i have, and a unpainted one
To find it search amazon for:
Make Your Own Compressor Professional Guitar Effects Pedal All Kits With 1590B
The branding is Landtone but amazon labels it as TTone for some reason, They also claim it is a professional analog circuit (¿) I put it all in the title hoping people googling it can find it using those key words. It comes from China & works well to my tone deaf ears.
This pedal ive read is a orange squeeze clone, (edit: been told its NOT. is an Optical Compressor) its $27 USD (as of 2022) there is a black one it also comes in pink. Which i have, and a unpainted one
To find it search amazon for:
Make Your Own Compressor Professional Guitar Effects Pedal All Kits With 1590B
- Attachments
-
- IMG_20220508_054231_267.png (122.37 KiB) Viewed 2761 times
Last edited by Hadasha on 10 May 2022, 15:42, edited 1 time in total.
just out of sheer curiosity i traced and drew up a schem from pictures of the PCB a while back. didn't figure it would be very relevant... until now.
didn't bother drawing the switching layout but its not too hard to figure out. effect input is grounded through the 47 ohm and swaps a ground connection with the status LED on bypass.
didn't bother drawing the switching layout but its not too hard to figure out. effect input is grounded through the 47 ohm and swaps a ground connection with the status LED on bypass.
Some ppl have dm me saying the battery doesnt work if you hook it up to the battery "-" but need to use the ground for it instead? I literally dont even own a 9v battery to test this. Lol
- FiveseveN
- Cap Cooler
Information
Wow, that ground pour has me all kinds of confused.
The battery is switched in by the input jack like 90% of commercial pedals, maybe they missed that?
The battery is switched in by the input jack like 90% of commercial pedals, maybe they missed that?
Ignorance more frequently begets confidence than does knowledge. (Charles Darwin)
I have no idea what any of this means LOL
Are you suggesting i should mod it in some waybto make it work better?
I also edited the post to reflect its NOT an Orange Squeezer (id seen that in an random review somewhere and am so new i have no idea)
Put this together. A few observations:
1. It's a DoD 280A clone. The schematic above is almost the same as the ones found at GGG and Tonepad.
2. It comes with what appears to be a random LED and a LDR with no shrink tubing. I had a VTL5C2 on hand for another unfinished project so used that instead. The GGG has a variant with a NSL-32 which are cheaper.
3. Soldering to the small tabs on the pots, and soldering two wires to "PWC" is a little challenging. I wound up putting a blob of solder on the pot tabs and "spot welding" the wires to them, and then using some shrink tubing to keep it connected. Same with PWC, used leftover lead, twisted the two wires, and hooked the leftover lead, soldered, and held that with shrink tubing, So shrink tubing is necessary IMHO.
4. I've never used a "real" DoD 280 so can't compare. But based on reviews, this acts the same. With guitar and higher levels of compression it does crap out and drop the signal initially quite a bit. But with lower levels it is pretty subtle and musical. I'm using it on a Rhodes with inconsistent action, right before a phaser and it's pretty good. The GGG and Tonepad schematics call for a LF358 OpAmp. This comes with a 4558. I swapped in a 1458 for the heck of it, and it still sounds OK. I also put in a pin header for the resister in parallel with the LDR. The Tonepad schematic has it a 1M, the GGG at 3M and there are reviews about that as well.
5. It's an easy build. The VTL5C2 is about US$13 plus shipping from SmallBear. The NSL-32, Macron, and NOS CLM8000s about US$5-7. But overall cost with the "upgrades" is still a bargain.
1. It's a DoD 280A clone. The schematic above is almost the same as the ones found at GGG and Tonepad.
2. It comes with what appears to be a random LED and a LDR with no shrink tubing. I had a VTL5C2 on hand for another unfinished project so used that instead. The GGG has a variant with a NSL-32 which are cheaper.
3. Soldering to the small tabs on the pots, and soldering two wires to "PWC" is a little challenging. I wound up putting a blob of solder on the pot tabs and "spot welding" the wires to them, and then using some shrink tubing to keep it connected. Same with PWC, used leftover lead, twisted the two wires, and hooked the leftover lead, soldered, and held that with shrink tubing, So shrink tubing is necessary IMHO.
4. I've never used a "real" DoD 280 so can't compare. But based on reviews, this acts the same. With guitar and higher levels of compression it does crap out and drop the signal initially quite a bit. But with lower levels it is pretty subtle and musical. I'm using it on a Rhodes with inconsistent action, right before a phaser and it's pretty good. The GGG and Tonepad schematics call for a LF358 OpAmp. This comes with a 4558. I swapped in a 1458 for the heck of it, and it still sounds OK. I also put in a pin header for the resister in parallel with the LDR. The Tonepad schematic has it a 1M, the GGG at 3M and there are reviews about that as well.
5. It's an easy build. The VTL5C2 is about US$13 plus shipping from SmallBear. The NSL-32, Macron, and NOS CLM8000s about US$5-7. But overall cost with the "upgrades" is still a bargain.