MAGNUS MODULUS - PROJECT - PT2399 ECHO/Chorus/Tremolo/Boost

Original effect designs complete with verified schematics, layouts and instructions. All project were freely contributed by members and cannot be used for commercial purposes without consent of the respective owners of the copyright.
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DrNomis
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Post by DrNomis »

I wonder if anyone has been brave enough to attempt a Vero/Stripboard layout for this one?....been contemplating doing one myself.... :hmmm:
Genius is not all about 99% perspiration, and 1% inspiration - sometimes the solution is staring you right in the face.-Frequencycentral.

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Post by JohnBlakeArnold »

Cathexis did one, I am also loading up the components on this perf board, but wanted to use the GuitarPCB board as a guide first. The link is here (to a different board, that also has good Mag Mod info):

https://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main. ... s+Modulus/

along with tempo indicator off of the Pin 5 "Clk O" (clock output) of the PT2399.

:mrgreen:

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DrNomis
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my favorite amplifier: Self-Built Valve Amp Head :)
Completed builds: Dallas Arbiter Fuzz Face,Tone Bender Professional Mk 3,Tone Bender 3-Knob,Baja BK Butler Tube Driver,Baja Real Tube Overdrive,Roger Mayer Octavia,EH Soul Preacher,Tech 21 XXL Distortion,MFOS Weird Sound Generator.
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Post by DrNomis »

JohnBlakeArnold wrote:Cathexis did one, I am also loading up the components on this perf board, but wanted to use the GuitarPCB board as a guide first. The link is here (to a different board, that also has good Mag Mod info):

https://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main. ... s+Modulus/

along with tempo indicator off of the Pin 5 "Clk O" (clock output) of the PT2399.

:mrgreen:



Now that's cool.... :thumbsup
Genius is not all about 99% perspiration, and 1% inspiration - sometimes the solution is staring you right in the face.-Frequencycentral.

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Post by Vandal »

hi guys :) I made MM but it not working properly... tremolo not working and modulation is very strange :) when i turn of delay then stop working modulation I think something wrong :) help me please!!! :) p.s. and delay sound is very smooth (without hi)

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Post by Barcode »

Just noticed something. It looks like the Delay Level control adjusts the delay level (duh), but the dry level stays constant and the pot simply adds in the desired amount of wet signal. In the schematic, If one were to tie lug 1 of the delay level pot to pin 5 of the output opamp (marked NE5532-1b on the schem at the beginning of the thread) instead of ground, that would allow 100% wet or 100% dry at the extremes of the pot rotation, correct? Further, if one wanted a dry kill mod, they could insert a toggle between the 10K resistor at the top of the schem and pin 5, correct?

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Post by Vandal »

https://imageshack.us/g/155/dscf3805x.jpg/ here is pictures. and when I remove IC3 no changes... :roll:

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Post by Groovenut »

Hey all,

I have two PCBs left over from a proto run of the Magnus I did a few months back. The pots, switches and LEDs are board mounted minimizing the off board wiring to the foot switches. The component numbering matches the original document numbering. There were two traces that needed rerouting due to a layout error. As you can see by the pic both have been rerouted and I have tested the continuity of the routes. I have also included a pic of the finished pedal layout reference. I am asking $15 plus shipping per PCB.

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Post by nmbb »

Hello everyone. New at here, found this article very interesting and once i'm about to buy some PT2399, well, let's give it a try! But for the reading of the schematics and for some vids I found on tube, how's the wiring for delay done? Cause for the schemnatic, it seems that if I use true bypass for the effects, modulation will not work...

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Post by ss44 »

Hello,
My prototype of Magnus Modulus in 500 Series format :) and it works good;)
DSCN5408.JPG
DSCN5412.JPG

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Post by iq01221 »

Weeell, here's mine. Dont'n ask for better gutshots, there's no possibility that I disable it again: it's a veeery small enclosure.
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Thanks guys :) !!!
Abrazze!!!

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Post by hbo »

DrNomis wrote:I wonder if anyone has been brave enough to attempt a Vero/Stripboard layout for this one?....been contemplating doing one myself.... :hmmm:
Did a vero layout for this one yesterday. Already confirmed to be working (not by myself).

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Post by JohnBlakeArnold »

I did the vero build of this board which was in the vero section (user files section?) as verified for like two years. I have done two complete builds with that vero so I can confirm it, and further, I felt that it gave a lot more control over delay rate than the printed boards. However, this vero posted above does not look like the one that I used. I'm not saying its wrong or anything, Just that the one I used I believe was hand drawn, although certain features such as the cutout at A-15 look accurate on a quick perusal. I also feel that there may have been more room across the bottom: just a bit less on the bottom rail "S". Though I am moving, I currently don't have time to compare the two, but the poster of this vero might search the user files to look for the one that has been up for a while and see if they match. Just my two cents. Thanks

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Post by JohnBlakeArnold »

This is the post to the vero I was talking about, and which, ironically was mentioned in an earlier post at the top of this very page.... Kudos!

https://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main. ... s.jpg.html

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Post by Nocentelli »

I don't think it needs to be checked, it says "verified" on it so someone has built it and it works. Also, a vero should be checked against the original schematic, not another vero (which is a nightmare task unless it is a tiny simple circuit like a fuzzface).
Steven_M wrote: 21 Jan 2011, 17:52
biffa wrote: Sorry,but u r not the only member here

I'm not? Well fuck this site then. I only want meaningful conversations with myself.

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Post by JohnBlakeArnold »

I am not trying to be a dick about this; and God knows I appreciate every bit of effort every person contributes to these forums.

At no time did I say that "it needs to be checked against a prior vero." My point was the work had already been done-- and done very well-- more than two years ago.

The point remains that if an interested party read this entire post- all 14 pages or whatever- (as well as the post specific to the Magnus Mod from that other site that shall remain nameless) they would have seen a link to the earlier equally verified vero which has been around at least two years.

And I absolutely think that if two equally verified veros have been created by hard working folks, they should absolutely be compared once verified by the interested viewer to simply consider the most efficient use of space, component placement, etc.-- if only to better get into the head of those people who truly understand design and layout. I think something can be learned from building all 3 different builds.

I think it is great someone took the time to put up a new vero, especially using the nifty software which makes everything more readable and editing far easier, but if you look at the old one, you will see that the layout of the chips is different, further that it includes the output loop section. Also, this thread has been dead for like a year other than a post of someone's newly created build-which I think is great by the way. And I also think it is great that this thread still exists and there is enough interest that anyone who hasn't yet built a Mod but who wants to, still has this resource to access to help them along the way.

One point I DO wish to make though is this: I personally was never very satisfied with any of the schematics proffered for this device, and I think if you go back and read the original notes on the device, the designer himself SAID he had taken parts of schematics from other working circuits to create this one. Also, the fact that one either needs to leave a certain part of the effect on at all times to get certain other parts of the effect to work OR one needs at least a 4 PDT Stomp for some various aspects of full on-off functionality are not spectacularly pointed out in the schematic.

And believe me, I have seen quite a few "verified" graphics that left much to be desired.

Many of the questions on issues concerning the issue of how to turn off "always on" effects such as buffers and the like, which have been asked and re-asked in many different posts on different circuits -- AND I realize this specific effect was designed for endless repeats after it was disabled-- were answered to my satisfaction not by reading and using the same "verified" jpgs everyone else was using- but by going back through the archives and doing the research and finding those old hand drawn veros and layouts because someone who had theirs working and said the answer was there, and so I went and sought it out where they said it was.

If you feel me to be overly defensive or uncool about my response-- then fine.

But as a budding builder who now has a couple of years under my belt of successful circuits and repairs for paying customers - I put Cathexis up among the folks like Frequency Central, the guys at 4ms, DeadAstronaut/RobertHenry, and the extremely obvious examples of Jack Orman, Merlin Blencowe, R.G. Keen, Mark Hammer, and PRR, who wrote this which will never be quoted enough for people trying to get rid of unwanted AM Radio signals:

Reasonable value for RC filter for AM radio Post by: PRR on January 23, 2010, 01:32:33 AM

"What guitar-amps historically used was 34K and 100pFd. The 100pFd is the input of a 12AX7. Fender 2-jack inputs had two 68K but for either input alone the effective resistance is 34K. This is a 49KHz low-pass, giving >20dB attenuation in the AM band, yet negligible loss in the audio band. Higher than 34K or so (maybe 100K) will add hiss even on tube or FET inputs. Lower than 34K won't give much loss for high-power AM broadcasts, unless you raise the capacitance enough to start loading-down the pickup's treble."

Now I admit, this has nothing at all to do with the new vero post...

And having re-read all I have written, it has become obvious to me that I am still a bit emotional after getting into an argument with my 81-year-old mother yesterday over whether Wesson Oil or Crisco would be the best lubricant for me to use on Beyonce's backside during the SuperBowl Half Time show. So I apologize.

But this new vero gets saved with all the other veros on my disk, so thanks a lot poster dude!!!!

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Post by hbo »

All good points, and I agree with a lot of what you say. I just happen to enjoy doing vero layouts (it's just as much fun as doing the actual building), and I made one for this particular project/schematic on a hunch. I could keep it to myself, but I believe sharing it doesn't hurt anyone.

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Post by gambit07 »

iq01221 wrote:Weeell, here's mine. Dont'n ask for better gutshots, there's no possibility that I disable it again: it's a veeery small enclosure.
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Thanks guys :) !!!
Abrazze!!!
hi, did you have any ticking problems when the tremolo was engaged? did you also have that significant volume drop when tremolo was engaged? i also made one and had some sort of throbbing sound and other problems with the tremolo..

any help will be greatly appreciated! thanks!

nice build by the way! :)

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Post by iq01221 »

Yes, there's a noise on tremolo mode. I gues it's 'cause the whires are too long... well, I had no choice with that: it was made for a friend of mine, and he wanted it in a little box [smilie=rolleyes.gif]
I hadn't problems with volume drop :thumbsup That's a fet problem, I guess...

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Post by JohnBlakeArnold »

If you take the two switches out of the circuit (not the footswitch, just the two that determine what functionality is current), you get the circuit such that as you manipulate the pots, you get each of the effects you want. There is a lot of blending capabilities. I believe you will be able to hunt down your volume error this way. Also, you might be aware of this: tone controls on some guitar take out the high end and drop volume unless there is a capacitor-resistor placed across the lugs that prevent volume loss as high end is rolled off- it could be that with the switches engaged, as you move a pot, it negatively effects the volume. thus, if you bypass the switches you will be better able to see where the issue is. As far as the ticking goes: this is a both a function of the PT2399 but I bet if you use that same chip in the circuit that Cathexis vero'ed and check the values, you might find that he either A) uses a different value capacitor or resistor value, or B) (more likely) he has better shielded the power signal from the audio signal and made sure that his digital and analog grounds are truly grounded. Or both. There are many posts on just this issue of the PT2399 ticking in this and other circuits, and Merlin Blencowe is of the opinion that these two types of grounds are usually not grounded appropriately and analog artifacts can end up on the digital ground inside the chip making it tick. You'll have to do a search for his posts and posts on the PT2399 in general. The length of wiring is rarely a sound issue unless they are unshielded in some way, and they can always be twisted and run perpendicular rather than parallel to one another. Keep power wires away from signal wires. Ground everything back to the jacks. Just my 2 cents. Thx.

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Post by nativetrash »

I built this last night and the delay sounds great, but like a previous poster I'm not getting anything out of the two toggle switches - when I switch the tremolo on the LED lights up and it pulses but there is no sound change. The other toggle had no effect at all. Should I solder the pads together or could I be doing something wrong? I can post pics of the board if it helps

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