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i finish mine and i got some problem , the gain does not work at all, any tip for it?

Very Cool!!!!....


I have about 5 or 6 spare PT2399 ICs, so I'll be ordering a PCB for this project soon...

Thanks for contributing this project to Freestompboxes.org, cheers....

Hello there,

I'm a little bit confused. What off wiring schem should I use? Some people built with different schems.

Thank you!

mattzan wrote:Hello there,

I'm a little bit confused. What off wiring schem should I use? Some people built with different schems.

Thank you!

Use the schematics in the first post to wire all the switches and LED's. It's all there.

I tried the off wiring diagram on pdf but it didn't work out (the leds don't even go on) and I saw on the first build picture on first page, and it has a wire that connects the 2 3dpdts that the wiring diagram on pdf doesn't show. It has only one possible diagram?

Sorry for my bad english.

I guarantee the wiring in the first post's schematics works. I've done it a few times using them. Your LED's might be backwards or you need to learn how to wire up a switch.

anyone making boards for these, or does permission exist for board fabricators to produce these such as GuitarPCB.com ?

thanks

LaceSensor wrote:anyone making boards for these, or does permission exist for board fabricators to produce these such as GuitarPCB.com ?

thanks

The creator mentioned in the first couple of pages of the thread that this one is free use. So feel free to have boards fabricated off the layout.

smallest so far i think working

merlinb wrote:The 5532 is kinda current hungry (not to mention noisy in a stompbox),

1. It's no more "current hungry" than any other bipolar op-amp!

2. It's one of the quietest op-amps available!

The NE5532 is a truly excellent device for many stompbox designs because of its low output impedance, tendancy not to "latch-up" and very low noise.

ALDOUSCROSS wrote:

smallest so far i think working

you gonna share???

mictester wrote: 1. It's no more "current hungry" than any other bipolar op-amp!

It sucks about 5 times more supply current than a TL072.

2. It's one of the quietest op-amps available!

It has low voltage noise (like any BJT opamp) but a LOT more current noise, and that's what really matters in a circuit like this with such large feedback resistances. The input buffer alone generates ~1mV noise from this alone, around 20 times more than a TL072. The 5532 is more appropriate in low-Z circuits.

Can anyone tell me why Im only getting one repeat from the delay? Everything else works fine but just one repeat out of the delay.
Thanks

merlinb wrote:

mictester wrote: 1. It's no more "current hungry" than any other bipolar op-amp!

It sucks about 5 times more supply current than a TL072.

2. It's one of the quietest op-amps available!

It has low voltage noise (like any BJT opamp) but a LOT more current noise, and that's what really matters in a circuit like this with such large feedback resistances. The input buffer alone generates ~1mV noise from this alone, around 20 times more than a TL072. The 5532 is more appropriate in low-Z circuits.

¿What 'bout TL2272? It's line array and very low noisy too...

OnTheTundra wrote:Can anyone tell me why Im only getting one repeat from the delay? Everything else works fine but just one repeat out of the delay.
Thanks

Check the wiring of the Feedback pot and the surrounding components.
Multiple repeats (aka echo) is performed by re-injecting the delayed signal in the delay line again and again ...

Here is mine..





I rehoused it as I realised there was no use for 3 foot switches.

Got some problems with the feedback knob tho. I'm only getting one repeat unless the feedback knob is maxed out then I'll get a few more... Anyone knows whats the problem?

Howdy,
Long time lurker, first time poster. I have completed my first valid build of the Magnus Modulus with a board ordered from GuitarPCB.com. I really like the circuit. It does everything I expected and more with the simple boost the GAIN pot can give with everything else minimized.

But I have to tell you, despite having a great build, most of my error checking over the last three days (which I thought was the perfectly good circuit) was actually my repeated, different attempts to wire the toggle switches. I had great success with simply connecting the pads together, and controlling the various aspects of the pedal simply through the various pot configurations of the different sections.

My mini-toggels have a 3 leads: a larger center lead (from research this is the "Source") and two smaller leads on either side which the toggle determines as output. Originally, since the leads from the Magnus Modulus board are two leads, and not three, I had wired the pots with one of the smaller pot leads empty, and the leads from the board to the middle and one side respectively, such that the circuit was either open or closed. But I got noises, bass thumping heartbeats, etc.

I then thought, "hey, I guess this empty second pot lead has to go somewhere, I better send it to ground." That really didn't work out because it sounded like a screaming ground fault with no volume control.

This is when I decided to simply connect all the pads together, and test the circuit without switching other than a bypass, and it sounds great- there is no noise or uglies at all.

So while, I COULD easily use the Magnus Modulus as is, is there some way to better wire these switches. Thanks,
John Blake Arnold

don't wire the third toggle lug to anywhere. should be sweet.

That is how I originally had, and I got a thumping like a bass heartbeat. I'll go back and work on it tomorrow. If I was conceptually right, then it was a functional, building mistake. Thanks for the quick feedback! By the way, I'm super happy the board is back up, and I saw MerlinB post above. I recently bought his two books on tube pre-amps and power amps, and they will stay in my bookshelf forever and have already led me to begin building my own parallel pre-amp stage!

hmm.. could be dud switches, but I'm not sure how that would introduce that kind of sound...