Muff driver - Big Muff Pi modified for a smoother taste
- Nocentelli
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I had a bit of time this weekend, and a strong desire to breadboard, so decided to see if I could a make BMP I actually liked (as I am wont to do every few months).
I really like the simplicity of the clipping diodes and the idiot-proof biasing arrangement of the big muff, but I seriously dislike the tonestack and the way the pedal only sounds really good when the sustain is cranked (and therefore too distorted).
Probably a fool's errand, but I was aiming for a more versatile high gain overdrive/fuzz sound than just the usual chainsaw buzz.
To get some more useful lower gain sounds, I used the "focus" cap blend control from the Musket: I also tried out, but discarded a second sustain control between the two clipping stages. I settled instead for a large inter-stage resistor with a treble bypass cap: This might be useful as a trimmer set to suit. The tonestack and Q4 went completely, replaced by a simple treble roll off, and I used two back-to-back diode pairs in series (Timmy-style) for both clipping stages.
I really like the simplicity of the clipping diodes and the idiot-proof biasing arrangement of the big muff, but I seriously dislike the tonestack and the way the pedal only sounds really good when the sustain is cranked (and therefore too distorted).
Probably a fool's errand, but I was aiming for a more versatile high gain overdrive/fuzz sound than just the usual chainsaw buzz.
To get some more useful lower gain sounds, I used the "focus" cap blend control from the Musket: I also tried out, but discarded a second sustain control between the two clipping stages. I settled instead for a large inter-stage resistor with a treble bypass cap: This might be useful as a trimmer set to suit. The tonestack and Q4 went completely, replaced by a simple treble roll off, and I used two back-to-back diode pairs in series (Timmy-style) for both clipping stages.
modman wrote: ↑ Let's hope it's not a hit, because soldering up the same pedal everyday, is a sad life. It's that same ole devilish double bind again...
- beedotman
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- sinner
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looks weird
- MoonWatcher
- Diode Debunker
I think it's the kind of fool's errand that I end up periodically doing myself.Nocentelli wrote:Probably a fool's errand, but I was aiming for a more versatile high gain overdrive/fuzz sound than just the usual chainsaw buzz.
I do like dropping the gain with the Russian resistor values of 12K to the collectors and 390R for the emitters.
I have myself convinced that there's got to be a better method than the original sustain control for some reason.
I've also kind of come to an endpoint with playing around with the stock stye tone stack, but don't know where to take it from here. I think your idea is food for thought though.
So how does it sound to you?
- Nocentelli
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I feel the same about the sustain control. I actually started out by trying mictester's suggestion of using a dual-ganged pot to control the clipping section collector voltages; I had a 100k dual with 100k resistors in parallel to give 0k-50k in series with 4k7 fixed resistors to each collector. I was rather hoping this could act as a decent alternative gain control, and i could maybe do away with the sustain control altogether, but it didn't work out like that. It's great for getting even higher gain, clipping and filth, but doesn't help with the lower gain end of things.MoonWatcher wrote:I have myself convinced that there's got to be a better method than the original sustain control for some reason.
I like it better than a standard big muff: The lower gain sounds are not exactly classic tube overdrive, more like a convincing solid-state amp emulating overdrive, but still way better than a muff with the sustain turned down. Nice and crunchy, I suppose. The "timmy" diode arrangement seems to lower the compression and make it a bit more dynamic, and the high-pass on the input helps for more subtle gain levels - It still goes pretty filthy at full whack, however.MoonWatcher wrote:So how does it sound to you?
The idea of adjusting bass levels before the clipping, and rolling off excess treble after clipping is something common to many dirt pedals, including the Timmy and Skreddy's Lunar Module, which are both pedals I really like. You can cut some bass and roll back the gain for a lighter drive sound, then set the final treble level to suit.
I find the bmp tonestack sounds good in only one position, and you are always forced into a compromise so it has enough bass but is not too muffled at the treble end.
modman wrote: ↑ Let's hope it's not a hit, because soldering up the same pedal everyday, is a sad life. It's that same ole devilish double bind again...
- juanro
- Cap Cooler
I note that you left out the cap that isolates the clipping diodes from the collector DC to base; so collector will never sit more than two diodes drop above base, wich in turn is one diode drop above ground (much alike the bazzfuss). Is that intentional or a typo on the transcribed schematic?
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- Nocentelli
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Crap, that's a typo - 100n on both.
modman wrote: ↑ Let's hope it's not a hit, because soldering up the same pedal everyday, is a sad life. It's that same ole devilish double bind again...
- bato001
- Resistor Ronker
The big muff circuit can be modified so many ways it is mind boggling. Real nice spin on an old circuit.
"Ever wondered how some of your favourite guitar players got their tone? Me too. Probably a good amp and lots of practice." Little Lord Electronics Homepage
- bato001
- Resistor Ronker
The big muff circuit can be modified so many ways it is mind boggling. Real nice spin on an old circuit.
"Ever wondered how some of your favourite guitar players got their tone? Me too. Probably a good amp and lots of practice." Little Lord Electronics Homepage
- Nocentelli
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Corrected schem:
modman wrote: ↑ Let's hope it's not a hit, because soldering up the same pedal everyday, is a sad life. It's that same ole devilish double bind again...
- Cub
- Cap Cooler
What's the value of the cap between the collector of Q2 and the trimmer ?
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- Nocentelli
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220n, and I also ended up using a 500k trimmer instead of the 100k shown.
modman wrote: ↑ Let's hope it's not a hit, because soldering up the same pedal everyday, is a sad life. It's that same ole devilish double bind again...
- Cub
- Cap Cooler
Thank you ! As Bato said, a real nice spin on an old circuit.
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- mictester
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You have to increase the emitter resistors to 1k or even more. My version (on my pedalboard) has 1k8 in each emitter and 10k base coupling resistors. It goes from a slightly distorted, quite tightly focussed sound to a massive, insane, screaming, howling monster.....Nocentelli wrote:I feel the same about the sustain control. I actually started out by trying mictester's suggestion of using a dual-ganged pot to control the clipping section collector voltages; I had a 100k dual with 100k resistors in parallel to give 0k-50k in series with 4k7 fixed resistors to each collector. I was rather hoping this could act as a decent alternative gain control, and i could maybe do away with the sustain control altogether, but it didn't work out like that. It's great for getting even higher gain, clipping and filth, but doesn't help with the lower gain end of things.MoonWatcher wrote:I have myself convinced that there's got to be a better method than the original sustain control for some reason.
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- Nocentelli
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Might try that again, then. Do you mean 10ks between stages or between B-C (surely not)?
modman wrote: ↑ Let's hope it's not a hit, because soldering up the same pedal everyday, is a sad life. It's that same ole devilish double bind again...
- Cannibal
- Breadboard Brother
Hey Nocentelli, have you tried using some negative feedback to tame the beast? bet you can get some low gain smooth tone if you filter some high end and super low end in the feedback network.
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- Nocentelli
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Now this sounds interesting. When you talk about negative feedback, do you mean the base-collector cap and resistor pairs?Cannibal wrote:Hey Nocentelli, have you tried using some negative feedback to tame the beast? bet you can get some low gain smooth tone if you filter some high end and super low end in the feedback network.
I'm just heading home now to try out a couple of ideas on this circuit. First is a dual-gang pot acting as a pair of emitter resistor AC bypass pots on the two clipping stages (i.e. like the fuzzface gain control, but two of them simulataneously controlling the two clipping stages). Second idea is a BMP gain control arrangement outlined by Gus Smalley over th DIYSB, where he has a 500k pot AC coupled across the Q1 base-collector in this thread -
https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/ ... c=104029.0
modman wrote: ↑ Let's hope it's not a hit, because soldering up the same pedal everyday, is a sad life. It's that same ole devilish double bind again...
- Cannibal
- Breadboard Brother
sorry for the late reply, when i said negative feedback i was thinking about the "honeybee-style" feedback. Something like this:Nocentelli wrote:Now this sounds interesting. When you talk about negative feedback, do you mean the base-collector cap and resistor pairs?
I'm just heading home now to try out a couple of ideas on this circuit. First is a dual-gang pot acting as a pair of emitter resistor AC bypass pots on the two clipping stages (i.e. like the fuzzface gain control, but two of them simulataneously controlling the two clipping stages). Second idea is a BMP gain control arrangement outlined by Gus Smalley over th DIYSB, where he has a 500k pot AC coupled across the Q1 base-collector in this thread -
https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/ ... c=104029.0
Use C2 value to filter some low end, C1 and R2 for the high end and R1 to determine the amount of feedback.
Seiche wrote:there's a difference between being drugged (I don't think it was only booze) and retarded.