Turret board builds-how to? Skin pimp Skinpimp...

Frequently asked question on the subject of designing, creating, producing printed boards, veroboards or perfboads and on point-to-point construction techniques.
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fuzzca
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Post by fuzzca »

So... while visiting a friend of mine recently, he showed me his Skinpimp (Skin Pimp?) Tonebender Mk III.

As a pedal builder, I was completely impressed by the turret board/ point to point build on attractive varnished wood construction! Here are a few pics of the pedal I saw.
http://www.bjfe.org/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1769

Does anyone know where I might find some of the parts to make a build like this? (Turrets in particular)

PS. A great sounding pedal!

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culturejam
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Post by culturejam »

Moved this here, as it is a more proper location.

Also, I did a tutorial for making eyelet boards:

http://circuitworkshop.com/forum/index.php?topic=41.0

If you want to buy the supplies (boards, turrets, eyelets, related tools), check out http://www.turretboards.com

fuzzca
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Post by fuzzca »

Cool!
I checked the link but there is only a forum thread, no tutorial or useful info...

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HydrozeenElectronics
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Post by HydrozeenElectronics »

fuzzca wrote:Cool!
I checked the link but there is only a forum thread, no tutorial or useful info...

Same here

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Post by fuzzca »

Perhaps this is the link...

http://www.forrestwhitesides.com/node/74

Sickle
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Post by Sickle »

Hey, since you guys mentioned my buddy and fellow tattoo artist Ryan and his building methods, here's another trick you can try out if you wanna go with a tattoo machine-inspired flavor.

Tattoo machines utilize two binding posts to isolate the frame against the machine coils. These can be any conductive metal, but the real die-hards use iron or copper. The front binding post has three holes, one to attach to the machine's frame(with insulators between them), one with a threaded hole passing through perpendicular to the binding post's body for the contact screw which goes up against the front spring, and finally, a third hole, also threaded, which uses a screw or nylon part to press against the contact screw keeping it locked in place.

If you're using a turret board, I've thought several times about building one using binding posts. You simply take them and mount them to your board however you want, probably with a flathead screw underneath for a minimized profile, and pass your components through the hole used for the contact screw. You can either solder them in, or you can use the same method us tattooers do and simply thread in a screw and lock down your components.

The advantage of this should be immediately obvious: You are free to remove any component you like with a twist of a thumbscrew. Contact with your leads and the binding post will be as strong as you want to make it, but contact is contact, and its worked for us for well over 10 years.

I would feel just fine about seeing this kind of thing used in a commercial build, but if anyone felt iffy about it, at the very least, it would make for one hell of a bread board!!

Here's a shot of a tattoo machine's binding posts:

Image

They're offered by literally dozens of company's both cheap and pricey. I have no doubt using them would make a seriously sexy turret board construction! If you insulated the binding posts same as we do with the tattoo machines, you could use a copper clad board instead of turret and have a very effective ground plane.

It all boils down to how creative you wanna be!

:mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

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Post by Sickle »

Sickle wrote:Contact with your leads and the binding post will be as strong as you want to make it, but contact is contact, and its worked for us for well over 10 years.
By the way, I meant to write 100 years there. Not being able to edit your own posts on this forum is pretty aggravating.

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Post by Skinpimp »

Hey Guy's Thanks thanks for the kind words !

I use wood because I had a ton of maple lying around from some guitar builds, And ran out of actual turret material . I also have some ebony and others, but like using good figured stuff. As far as turrets I get mine through Hoffman Amps. You need the Base for the staking tool , but for the actual staking tool I use a punch, ground to a point. This spreads the opening a bit more for more area to solder to.

If you are using wood you will need a thickness planer. Although woodcraft may sell 1/8 precut pieces. NOTE Spalted Maple is a pure pain in the ass to try and do this with . It can be done, but you would need to coat both sides of the wood in Epoxy for strength , that is if it survives the planer going down that thin..

As far as layouts, sadly I draw everything out in my head over and over until I know it works. So, nothing on paper. I will draw them all up and post when I get the chance . Although these fuzz circuits shouldn't be to difficult to work through on a PTP basis.


have fun

Ryan

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Post by soulsonic »

I get my turrets from Hoffman, too. They're great quality!
"Analog electronics in music is dead. Analog effects pedal design is a dead art." - Fran

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Post by Skinpimp »

Yeah I just liked his service the best. I tried some keystone turrets and they were a PIA to solder to and more expensive. They had some coating of oil or corrosion crap on them . Turretboards.com are good quality too . But Hoffman gets his stuff out the door immediately.
soulsonic wrote:I get my turrets from Hoffman, too. They're great quality!

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Post by sinner »

Hi, I just made my first turret board, and I would like to share my tips. I used piece of perfboard as a template for drilling! As you see on the picts, looks great and straight 8) First I've used 0,5mm drill to make a pilot hole, then I've resized it to fit turrets, double stick tape helps a lot to hold it!!!

Alternatively you can always buy PRO LOOKING aluminum CIRCUIT BOARD DRILL TEMPLATE for only $24.95 @ turretbords.com :mrgreen: :oops: :roll:

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