Digital multimeters DMM: which one to buy?

Frequently asked questions about tools and instruments used in stompbox development.
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JVanDe7
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Post by JVanDe7 »

Hmmm maybe I was mistaken, now I'm getting 9v on the top of D1 but only .3 on the bottom.

So I looked at the schematic and parts list which says that D1 is a 1N4001 but that's not what they gave me. I was given a 1N4007. Does that matter?

I have a few extra 1N4004 diodes sitting around so I tried one of those instead. Same problem. Except now I get 0 volts on the bottom of D1 and 9v on the top.

So then I switched it back to the original and now I get 9v on top but 0.8 volts on bottom.
Last edited by JVanDe7 on 31 Dec 2011, 17:02, edited 4 times in total.
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JVanDe7
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Post by JVanDe7 »

Also, I used some feature on my multimeter that I'm not familiar with - continuity maybe? I got 675 across the diode and 645 across the other diode. Not sure if that means they are good or not but thought it was worth mentioning. My multimeter is a cheap ass Craftsman one and has no diode tester.
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Post by JVanDe7 »

Should I order a new diode? If so, should it be 1N4001 like the schematic says? Or 1N4007 like they sent me?

Also, shipping for one diode will likely be around $5-$8 so maybe I should just order another $10 kit instead? I have Amazon Prime so it's free shipping.

And just to confirm, the cathode (banded) end of D1 should be going to the + or - side of the 100uF cap? I have it going into the positive. The diode matches the PCB as far as orientation, but I guess what I'm asking is if I have the 100uF cap oriented properly?
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Post by deltafred »

If you are getting .3v on the bottom of the diode it looks like it could be the problem.

A 1N7007 will do fine, the last number is just how much reverse voltage it will stand before it starts to conduct like a zenner.

The continuity function on a meter that is something that I rarely use either. As far as I know the reading you get is the voltage across the leads. On mine with them open circuit I get 1505 (or thereabouts) short them together and it reads .001 and the beeper sounds.

I'm not sure what the readings you get mean, that is why I rarely use continuity. About the only thing I use it for is testing fuses as it beeps if they are good.

Don't knock cheap meters, I carry one in my gig bag that cost 99p, just over $1, and it does everything I want.

Just read your new post.

The cathode (banded end) should go to the capacitor. The capacitor should have the -ve stripe to the bottom.

The 10uF cap should have the -ve stripe towards the right, nearest the switch.
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Post by JVanDe7 »

It's cool man. I just stopped the shit out of it all over my kitchen floor. No worries. It's garbage now.

Thanks for trying to help. Have a great new year.
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Post by Dixie Guitars »

Greetings,

I'm new here and also new to electronics.

I couldn't find a better forum to post this question...

I would like to ask seasoned electronics guys for a recommendation on a multimeter.

I searched a lot (amazon, ebay, allelectronics.com, etc...) and can't really find one that I think would cover all my future needs. I'm most concerned about having wide ranges on all measurements. I find some with a wide range for resistance but limited range for capacitance, when compared to some other ones, but those might have a more limited range on resistance, etc. Also, although I currently don't know how to use the feature, I would like to multimeter to also have testing for transistors. Basically, just so I don't have to buy a better one later.

Also, while learning to troubleshoot my microwave I saw a YouTube video where the guy shows a multimeter with resistance range up to 2,000M. I thought, might as well buy one like that, but I can't find any that have that range.

Any recommendations?

Thank you, all...

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Post by andrej »

BK Precision 2709Bhas the best quality / features ratio set you can get under $200... And it's only around $100.

Even Dave recommends it:


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Post by Dixie Guitars »

Thank you for the recommendation.

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