Noob Question: 1st Vero Project

Ok, you got your soldering iron and nothing is going to hold you back, but you have no clue where to start or what to build. There were others before you with the same questions... read them first.
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jzilla
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Post by jzilla »

this is going to be my first vero attempt. what is going on at f8 to o8 (and c13 to k13, i14 to m14, etc.)?
appreciate the help!
-j
compulatorverolayoutbom.jpg

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IvIark
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Post by IvIark »

Just wire links between strips
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jzilla
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Post by IvIark »

Yep :thumbsup
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Post by jzilla »

IvIark wrote:Yep :thumbsup
excellent! wish me luck... gulp....

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Post by jzilla »

so before i continue i'd appreciate a yay or nay on my cuts. do they look ok?
thanks again!
-j
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Post by IvIark »

Look ok to me but you just need to check that all the copper has been removed and so the cut is complete. If you can see that no copper is left on top or bottom then they're good.

The only thing I can see is the bottom left hand cut seems to have a burr remaining which looks to be hanging over the strip above it. Make sure all of those are removed so you don't end up shorting out something you don't want to.
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Post by jzilla »

thanks! is sand paper ok to use to remove the burrs?

-j

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Post by IvIark »

Actually I've just looked at the cuts compared to the layout and they don't match up. If you look at your column of 5 and column of 4 cuts, on the layout there are 6 columns between them, you've only left 5.

Unless you've moved things about a bit?
Last edited by IvIark on 17 Apr 2010, 01:17, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by IvIark »

jzilla wrote:thanks! is sand paper ok to use to remove the burrs?

-j
Just pull them off, you don't need to do anything special. Just make sure no copper from one row is touching another row inadvertently.
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Post by jzilla »

great. you guys are super helpful!
-j

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Post by IvIark »

Sometimes it helps to do a mirrored image to work from to give you a better idea of where the cuts should go without having to interpret the layout through 180 degrees on the fly.

Like this:
reverse.png
reverse.png (45.08 KiB) Viewed 2346 times
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Post by jzilla »

awesome ideas! really appreciate the help.
-j

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Post by jzilla »

IvIark wrote:Actually I've just looked at the cuts compared to the layout and they don't match up. If you look at your column of 5 and column of 4 cuts, on the layout there are 6 columns between them, you've only left 5.

Unless you've moved things about a bit?
thanks for looking so carefully! i actually posted a different version of the vero layout that i'm using. here's the correct one:
compulatorverolayoutcom_p8.jpg

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Post by jzilla »

looking at the electrolytic caps orientation on the vero layout, does the strip denote the negative terminal? eg the left cap has the negative down (o5) and the right one up (k9)?

i've gotten myself confused because i'm using axial caps.

thanks!
-j

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Post by jzilla »

so i've completed the build and am getting a sputtery fuzz from a circuit that is supposed to be a transparent opto-compressor! i've double checked all the values and everything looks right. there is one place i'm a bit unsure: i substituted a 619 ohm resistor with a 560 ohm and 56 ohm resistor wired in series. is that cool?

if so, any ideas as to what would cause this fuzz circuit sound?

i should mention that i had one of the ICs upside down. when i corrected that i went from no sound to the fuzz...

thanks so much!
-j

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Post by jzilla »

got it working. what a great feeling of satisfaction! i had a friend show me some important troubleshooting fundamentals. found a couple shorts in the cuts that were the culprit. i feel empowered now that i know how to test for continuity! hahaha

thanks for the help!

cheers,
-j

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Post by Hides-His-Eyes »

Really glad it worked out for you- those shorts are always a PITA!
Testing, testing, won too fwee

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Post by dune2k »

Yes. That's why I always check the cuts with a DMM (both sides of the cuts and if there's a connection to the next strip).

I also mark the cuts on the component side with sharpie marker, but then I use a little part of wire bent in a 90° angle to stick through the holes & mark them on the other side with a (exacto-style) knife. (For the holes I use a drill bit then.)
Makes it kinda hard to make bigger mistakes. :D

Btw I also mark every 5 "dots" on the component side with another color to have orientation points.
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Post by jzilla »

thanks guys.

excellent tips dune. i'll use them on the next vero build. (now that i've successfully completed one, i'm excited to try another!)

-j

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