Frantone - Cream Puff

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RnFR
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Post by RnFR »

i figured you'd be on this one BM. :thumbsup can't wait to see it. this is a pretty cool sounding pedal.
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RnFR
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Post by RnFR »

any progress with this one mr. baja?
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Post by bajaman »

sorry :oops: - got side tracked - back on to it tonight - board layout PCB and schematic.
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Post by moltenmetalburn »

RnFR wrote:awesome.
i'm pretty sure that axicom box is a relay for switching. and the rest of the dpdt is just set up to fire the LED on and off. at least i think that's how the peach fuzz was set up.

Are there any advantages to this type of switching? It doesn't seem like two components would be cheaper. I have been wanting to delve into relays for a while now but couldn't find any real information about using them and I guess I was a bit intimidated by them. (for no good reason at all!)
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RnFR
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Post by RnFR »

for the average diyer w/ a box like this, i get the impression that it's unneccessary. i asked the same question a while back when we were dealing with the peach fuzz and was told that you can just use a DPDT. relays might be better used for remote switching applications. especially with high voltage.
as far as cash is concerned- it very well may be cheaper. it's not just the 2 parts, it could be all the other parts that go along with depopping the switching and powering the LED. i can't say for sure though as i've never priced relays myself.
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Post by lolbou »

moltenmetalburn wrote:Are there any advantages to this type of switching? It doesn't seem like two components would be cheaper. I have been wanting to delve into relays for a while now but couldn't find any real information about using them and I guess I was a bit intimidated by them. (for no good reason at all!)
So do I... I've read somewhere that Cornish was using relays, but can't really figure it out in a design... A nice relay-using design might be fun to read through...

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Post by bajaman »

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Post by brianeharmonjr »

Nice work! Bajaman, you are a gentleman and a scholar. This truly is a killer fuzz pedal.

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Post by WhiteKeyHole »

Thanks for all your hard work, Bajaman.

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Post by noelgrassy »

Super job as usual BajamaN! Thanks for sharing your formidable skills again. :wink:

The Dumble amps have used 12 VDC switching for a decade or more. They run off of
a separate xfmr that's mounted vertically on the chassis walls. The little bastards are
pretty cheap though. Mouser has the Axicom DPDT 2A thru-hole switches at $2.40 each.
Your voltage choices are 5V, 10V and 24V if anyone's asking. :popcorn:

Below is a section of an older ODS type amp with the switches shown in Orange on a blue field. :secret:
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Dumble #124 [no HRM] relays.JPG
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Post by PurplePeopleEater »

analogguru wrote:As the name says:

uff clone.... :roll:

analogguru


members/bajaman/Baja/Baja%20Pream%20Cuff/Graphic1.png

Schematic doesn't look like a Muff. The tone control is definitely taken from a Muff, but otherwise it's quite a bit different.

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Post by lynessmy »

:shock: 1000uF in power filtering section.
What is the real advantage of having that high value there for a DC powered 9V gadget?
Is there an academic method of determining how big a cap is sufficient there?

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Post by TubeDude22 »

Thank you, bajaman!

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Post by lynessmy »

Do you think this revision will affects the tone?
If not i will start to work toward the layout for 3PDT switching version...
I planned to change the 1000uf to 100uf as well.
Image

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Post by RnFR »

many thanks BM!!
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Post by noirengineer »

Great thread, thanks for this, that's cool stuff..
what's with the power filtering section on the 9V IN?
10 Ω / 1W and that one ZENER diode? labeled 741 (9v1?)
is that to flip the polarity of the Power input? Also, can
anyone explain the 4 red LED's mounted on the actual board?

:scratch:

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RnFR
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Post by RnFR »

not sure about that huge 10 ohmer, but the zener is there for polarity protection, and the red LEDs are for clipping.
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Post by soulsonic »

RnFR wrote:not sure about that huge 10 ohmer, but the zener is there for polarity protection, and the red LEDs are for clipping.
The 10 ohm is the voltage-dropping resistor for the zener. It's big because if the zener has to drop alot of voltage (like if you plugged an 18v supply into it), it will start dissipating alot of energy and get VERY hot. Anything smaller would burn up for sure. It's an interesting compromise; you could use a higher value of resistance and not need as high of wattage, but the tradeoff would be greater voltage drop during "normal" use. Of course, if you use a smaller wattage and small value, it can act as a sort of safety fuse - it will burn up and cut the power if you put in too much voltage or reverse voltage.
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RnFR
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Post by RnFR »

soulsonic wrote:
RnFR wrote:not sure about that huge 10 ohmer, but the zener is there for polarity protection, and the red LEDs are for clipping.
The 10 ohm is the voltage-dropping resistor for the zener. It's big because if the zener has to drop alot of voltage (like if you plugged an 18v supply into it), it will start dissipating alot of energy and get VERY hot. Anything smaller would burn up for sure. It's an interesting compromise; you could use a higher value of resistance and not need as high of wattage, but the tradeoff would be greater voltage drop during "normal" use. Of course, if you use a smaller wattage and small value, it can act as a sort of safety fuse - it will burn up and cut the power if you put in too much voltage or reverse voltage.
that's really cool. i don't think i've ever seen that done before. so this would take the place of the 470 ohm series resistor you sometimes see in power protection circuits?
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Post by soulsonic »

RnFR wrote:that's really cool. i don't think i've ever seen that done before. so this would take the place of the 470 ohm series resistor you sometimes see in power protection circuits?
I've been using a 20 ohm resistor in series with a 9v zener as a simple voltage regulator/protection in my Four Banger design. It's proven to be very reliable and clean. The 20 ohm I use is only 1/4 watt, so 18v would probably blow it up, but that's kinda the idea... blow up one 10 cent resistor to save everything else.

The 470 ohm in series with a zener that you see in some Boss pedals is a different style of arrangement and intended to drop the 12v from the ACA adapter down to 9v. It's wired different than what you see here.
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