Mid-Fi Electronics - Pitch Pirate - Guts, Schematic [traced]
- grrrunge
- Diode Debunker
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Swap it. You might have damaged it. Maybe someone else knows better than me on the subject, but that's what i'd try first...
A true believer in the magic of Sherwood Forest Pedal Pirates
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New base of operations: http://www.knucklehead.dk
+1roseblood11 wrote:Could someone post a verified schematic for the Deluxe version, please?
I'll draw a vero layout...
I did the ungodfx layout and it worked fine.abakuzam wrote:i made the ungod's layout but i couldnt get it to work, led doesnt light up and my regulator output is 3.6v? And how to conect to lfo gnd? i just soldered in output jack sleeve.
Thanks.
I couldnt get the led to light up but then i realised i had the led wired the wrong way round, the square pad is the flat side of the led. Once i switched it, it worked fine.
I connected the lfo gnd to the switched led gnd and the sw pad to gnd
Oops, I meant to say:
I connected the lfo gnd to gnd and the sw pad to the switched led to gnd
I connected the lfo gnd to gnd and the sw pad to the switched led to gnd
hangingmonkey wrote:Oops, I meant to say:
I connected the lfo gnd to gnd and the sw pad to the switched led to gnd
Hi from Spain and thank you all (specially Doug) for the threat and info. I own an original clari not and love mid-fi sounds.
I´m building a pitch pirate. Yesterday I had the same problem with led and Ungod´s layout. Led doesn´t light.
Is it a layout mistake? Should I change the led polarity (led anode to round pad and led cathode - to square pad? So, the SW pad goes to square led pad in the layout?
Thank you very much in advance
Ok. Problem resolved. Ungod´s layout is wrong. Square pad is negative for D2 (led) and round pad is positive. SW pad goes to negative of the ON/OFF led.changoman wrote:hangingmonkey wrote:Oops, I meant to say:
I connected the lfo gnd to gnd and the sw pad to the switched led to gnd
Hi from Spain and thank you all (specially Doug) for the threat and info. I own an original clari not and love mid-fi sounds.
I´m building a pitch pirate. Yesterday I had the same problem with led and Ungod´s layout. Led doesn´t light.
Is it a layout mistake? Should I change the led polarity (led anode to round pad and led cathode - to square pad? So, the SW pad goes to square led pad in the layout?
Thank you very much in advance
Now, I´m thinking about control the speed adding a CV jack. My setup (pedalsync master control) sends a 3,3V CV. I think it isn´t enough to trigger the led (superbright 6v to 12v). Anyone has tried it. I have found this IC (http://cds.linear.com/docs/en/datasheet/1073fa.pdf)
Thank you all again. Thank you Dough.
Has anyone come up with a schematic for the deluxe version yet? Or could id the pot values if possible?
Thanks!
Thanks!
- ShortScaleMike
- Resistor Ronker
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Built one of these up from the vero layout a page back - I used a bright blue led, a 5mm LDR and a 20k depth pot
Definitely seems a lot more tame than the original in terms of mod depth - a 50k depth pot doesn't seem to fix this - what should I try next? A white led? Any resistor or component subs?
Definitely seems a lot more tame than the original in terms of mod depth - a 50k depth pot doesn't seem to fix this - what should I try next? A white led? Any resistor or component subs?
Hi Mike, I built this initially with a bright white led. I found that the effect was too strong for me so I switched to a blue but it sounds like a white led would do the trick for you. Worth a try anywayShortScaleMike wrote:Built one of these up from the vero layout a page back - I used a bright blue led, a 5mm LDR and a 20k depth pot
Definitely seems a lot more tame than the original in terms of mod depth - a 50k depth pot doesn't seem to fix this - what should I try next? A white led? Any resistor or component subs?
Cheers,
Pat
- rasta_maleek
- Resistor Ronker
i mike, i think that you may use a red led, its that i use in my build and works okShortScaleMike wrote:Built one of these up from the vero layout a page back - I used a bright blue led, a 5mm LDR and a 20k depth pot
Definitely seems a lot more tame than the original in terms of mod depth - a 50k depth pot doesn't seem to fix this - what should I try next? A white led? Any resistor or component subs?
- ShortScaleMike
- Resistor Ronker
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Thanks guys - will try Both and report back
- ShortScaleMike
- Resistor Ronker
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Thanks for the help guys, turned out to be a misplaced resistor so the Depth pot was not in circuit. Fixed that and Wham - nutso.
- rasta_maleek
- Resistor Ronker
Mike, What about the led? What color did you use?
- ShortScaleMike
- Resistor Ronker
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I tried a normal red and bright blue and hire and had the same effect with each
Maybe my ldr is nice and sensitive
Maybe my ldr is nice and sensitive
Sorry if we've been through this, but is there a point to the D1 diode?
If I'm reading the schematic correctly, it doesn't really make sense (to me) why it would be there when there is 9V applied again right on the other side of the diode....
If I'm reading the schematic correctly, it doesn't really make sense (to me) why it would be there when there is 9V applied again right on the other side of the diode....
- Beedoola
- Resistor Ronker
to protect against voltage spikes or the wrong power supplies...???Moustache_Bash wrote:Sorry if we've been through this, but is there a point to the D1 diode?
If I'm reading the schematic correctly, it doesn't really make sense (to me) why it would be there when there is 9V applied again right on the other side of the diode....
That would make sense to me, if it wasn't for the 9V connection AFTER the diode connected to the voltage regulator and cap.
I think there's something I don't understand about electronics/schematics....
I think there's something I don't understand about electronics/schematics....
- DaveKerr
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Just think of it as a way to not have to draw the connection between the point marked +9V after the diode to the points marked +9v on the TL072 and LM586 - it makes the schematic more readable.Moustache_Bash wrote:That would make sense to me, if it wasn't for the 9V connection AFTER the diode connected to the voltage regulator and cap.
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I think there's something I don't understand about electronics/schematics....
... multiple LFO waveforms (saw up, saw down, triangle, square); a more flexible envelope with attack/release controls as well as inverted envelope. I am afraid it will have more knobs than the TGP annual convention - frequencycentral
I get it now!DaveKerr wrote:Just think of it as a way to not have to draw the connection between the point marked +9V after the diode to the points marked +9v on the TL072 and LM586 - it makes the schematic more readable.Moustache_Bash wrote:That would make sense to me, if it wasn't for the 9V connection AFTER the diode connected to the voltage regulator and cap.
[ Image ]
I think there's something I don't understand about electronics/schematics....