Death By Audio - Supersonic Fuzz Gun  [traced]

General documentation, gut shot, schematic links, ongoing circuit tracing, deep thoughts ... all about boutique stompboxes.
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Mrutg
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Post by Mrutg »

I came across some guts browsing Ebay.
Actually one photo.

https://cgi.ebay.com/Supersonic-Fuzz-Gu ... 2c5bb3a22a

Im still a noob so i can't tell but what parts/values of it do we need to clone?
Transistors? Diodes?

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Hides-His-Eyes
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Post by Hides-His-Eyes »

Best build quality I've ever seen from them
Testing, testing, won too fwee

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rockain
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Post by rockain »

guts from PCB-backside? :P

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culturejam
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Post by culturejam »

I edited the OP to add the photo as an attachment.

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Post by culturejam »

Hides-His-Eyes wrote:Best build quality I've ever seen from them
Quite. They are almost approaching advanced DIY'er quality.

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Post by theehman »

Is the board just floating around loose in there?
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Post by Hides-His-Eyes »

theehman wrote:Is the board just floating around loose in there?
Do you really need to ask? ;)


To be fair there's something that looks suspiciously like a standoff on the far right
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Post by theehman »

Hides-His-Eyes wrote:
theehman wrote:Is the board just floating around loose in there?
Do you really need to ask? ;)


To be fair there's something that looks suspiciously like a standoff on the far right
Yep, I think you're right. My error.
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Post by RnFR »

this is definitely the best yet, but those elecrolytics are at some seriously jaunty angles. i mean really, how hard is it to get your caps on straight? you just reheat the joint and push them flush. that way they aren't as susceptible to being bent or broken off.
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Post by culturejam »

Even if those jaunty caps did get broken off, would anyone notice a change in tone? :mrgreen:

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Post by LudfisterSound »

Wow! A PCB! I'm pretty sure mine's built on perf but I haven't opened it in years.

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Post by rocko1369 »

RnFR wrote:this is definitely the best yet, but those elecrolytics are at some seriously jaunty angles. i mean really, how hard is it to get your caps on straight? you just reheat the joint and push them flush. that way they aren't as susceptible to being bent or broken off.
And you didn't even mention the two resistors in between them.
Both look like they were falling out while being soldered in.
Hell, I do better than this. :lol:

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Post by bootle »

RnFR wrote:this is definitely the best yet, but those elecrolytics are at some seriously jaunty angles. i mean really, how hard is it to get your caps on straight? you just reheat the joint and push them flush. that way they aren't as susceptible to being bent or broken off.
I'd say they're just bent over so they fit under the lid,
looks like they're using those tall stand-offs so the board clears the back of the pots.

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Post by RnFR »

if that is true (but, by looking at those resistors, i have my doubts), then they should lie them all of the way down, just use axial caps, or get shorter standoffs. there is no excuse for jauntiness. at least, not in something that is professionally made, bought, and sold.
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Post by cutoutwitch »

:roll:

Sometimes I think that if you guys encountered a talking dog, you would complain about his accent. :wink:

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Post by Hides-His-Eyes »

Here's how I look at that, mate:

If I spent $100 on a pedal I'd expect something that would keep working for many years, probably built by a machine.

If I spend $270 (new street price on one of these), I expect a fucking labour of love; not something LESS nice than a $100 pedal!

The klon used to cost $350, which we used to make fun of, but it has a custom cast enclosure, 24mmm classy-as-hell pots, etc. It's certaintly got more "build value" to me than an EHX pedal would.

Devi ever 1-unit fuzzes are $100. That is good value for a handbuilt fuzz pedal, and the handbuiltness means they can be manufactured in smaller runs, so there are 10 to choose from instead of 1. I would not complain about one jaunty electrolytic in a DE.

It's just a price-quality incompatibility really.
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Post by Mrutg »

LudfisterSound wrote:Wow! A PCB! I'm pretty sure mine's built on perf but I haven't opened it in years.
It would be great if You'd share with your Hot-Perf-Guts :)

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Post by RnFR »

cutoutwitch wrote::roll:

Sometimes I think that if you guys encountered a talking dog, you would complain about his accent. :wink:
Hides-His-Eyes wrote:
If I spend $270 (new street price on one of these), I expect a fucking labour of love; not something LESS nice than a $100 pedal!
I also don't think it's asking that much for my 270$ pedal to be put together in a way that shows that you know what you are doing and care about your product. at least have it look like you took the extra 10 seconds to look over the board and do some QC. these things aren't hard, they are pretty damn easy. I've had caps that were soldered on like that break off before- something that could easily have been avoided.

for the record, there are lots of pedals out there that I think are built just fine. this was almost one of them.
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Post by bootle »

RnFR wrote:if that is true (but, by looking at those resistors, i have my doubts), then they should lie them all of the way down, just use axial caps, or get shorter standoffs. there is no excuse for jauntiness. at least, not in something that is professionally made, bought, and sold.
yeah I agree, wasn't trying to excuse it, just making an observation.
you get the feeling they'd be sticking out all over the shop regardless.
I hate jaunty components too, except for in vintage fuzzes where it helps with teh mojo.

is that a battery clip in there too? no expense spared!
maybe this is part of a limited edition 'deluxe' range.
270 bucks? fook!
in fairness it's better than that Bearfoot Honey Bee pedal.

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Post by Hides-His-Eyes »

Wait a shitting minute, where's the DC jack?
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