Wampler - PINNACLE II [traced]
thank you for your reply i understand now i'am stilling learning and still get confused
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Mbas974
- Resistor Ronker
Hi, I was wondering whether or not the output signal of this circuit exceed 5V peak to peak.
I'd like routing the audio signal thru a digital IC that handle up to 5Vpp......
Thanks.
I'd like routing the audio signal thru a digital IC that handle up to 5Vpp......
Thanks.
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jymaze
- Resistor Ronker
The Pinnacle fed with 9v can definitely exceed 5 v p-to-p. So can most pedals really...
Usually, there is an analog buffer before the digital IC (an ADC?) so this analog IC will clip first. They are protected by diodes classically, so if you exceed the input range it will clip hard. It will sound pretty bad so you will be able to tell. It won't damage anything though in theory.
Usually, there is an analog buffer before the digital IC (an ADC?) so this analog IC will clip first. They are protected by diodes classically, so if you exceed the input range it will clip hard. It will sound pretty bad so you will be able to tell. It won't damage anything though in theory.
It's coming =) I hate waiting for fabs
Shipped on the 18th from Hong Kong ( used itead for the pcbs) used oshpark for the image above though I'll have 10 whenever they finally come incjs2k wrote:Hey pappasmurfsharem , any luck with your fabs yet?
I only want 1 or 2 so the others will be up. I'm a little concerned if my pots are far enough in to do the intended board mount although it's not like drilling closer and an extra 2mm of wiring wouldn't fix it. I'll let you know how it goes.cjs2k wrote:If you're going to offer any up, I'd go for one. Or if you're going to do a run, I would be very interested. Let me know! Thanks, CJ
They'll probably just be cost+ shipping.
Weeee they came in today
The board works great.
Minor design flaw on my part.
C12 and C13 should be box caps 10n
I must have made them ceramic packages in the schematic in eagle.
However there is plenty of horizontal room to get a box cap in there no problem.
Or if you have 10n mylars which I did they just fit.
Minor design flaw on my part.
C12 and C13 should be box caps 10n
I must have made them ceramic packages in the schematic in eagle.
However there is plenty of horizontal room to get a box cap in there no problem.
Or if you have 10n mylars which I did they just fit.
I can generate one easy enough from eagle and include the schematic I put in pretty sure it was the "last version" from lukatoshcjs2k wrote:Is there a BOM, or are the values from a schematic? If so which one? There a a few schematics floating around this thread.
If your interested send me a PMED5150 wrote:Are you gonna sell this PCBs?
I HATE NOTE BEING ABLE TO EDIT POSTS.
Again if You want the Board it was more of a prototype.
It JUST fits in a 125B . I haven't had a chance to Drill the enclosure so I might recommend using Solder lug pots with wire to give you more wiggle room on the POTS. I ussually just turn SOLDER LUG pots into Board mount with some SOLID CORE wire
If I were to do another RUN I might move the pots in about 1-2MM but with careful drilling it should fit no problem.
Also as stated above I used Ceramic Packages in the schematic for C12 and C13 they are actually 10nF but mylars fit just fine and there is plenty of room on either side to use box caps with careful leg bending.
BOM
SCHEMATIC Redrawn from LUKATOSH's scheme on PAGE 4.
Again if You want the Board it was more of a prototype.
It JUST fits in a 125B . I haven't had a chance to Drill the enclosure so I might recommend using Solder lug pots with wire to give you more wiggle room on the POTS. I ussually just turn SOLDER LUG pots into Board mount with some SOLID CORE wire
If I were to do another RUN I might move the pots in about 1-2MM but with careful drilling it should fit no problem.
Also as stated above I used Ceramic Packages in the schematic for C12 and C13 they are actually 10nF but mylars fit just fine and there is plenty of room on either side to use box caps with careful leg bending.
BOM
Code: Select all
Part Value
C1 220uF
C2 220pf
C3 1uF
C4 22n
C5 56n
C6 22n
C7 470pF
C8 150pF
C9 100n
C10 22n
C11 1uF
C12 10n
C13 10n
C14 6n8
C15 4n7
C16 33n
C17 4n7
C18 1uF
CONTOUR C-50K
D1 1N4001
GAIN A-500K
LED LED5MM
Q1 J201
Q2 J201
Q3 J201
Q4 J201
Q5 J201
Q6 J201
R1 1M
R2 470R
R3 1k
R4 10k
R5 1M
R6 1M
R7 470k
R9 1k
R10 10k
R11 1M
R12 1M
R13 82k
R14 1k
R15 22k* (Bias Q5 - 4.5v)
R16 47k
R17 82k
R19 10k
R20 10k
R22 220k
R23 220k
R24 1k
R25 22k* (Bias Q6 - 4.5v)
R26 22k
R28 1M
R29 10R
R30 CLR(LED)
SW1 SPDT
SW2 DPDT
TONE B-100k
VOL A-100k- Attachments
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Mbas974
- Resistor Ronker
Hi, I built my clone and it sound great.
But there is an issue on my built...
it's like a ramp in sound when I play the first note, only the first note when the pedal is engaged from the bypass status.
On the pedal there is no switch at all; the circuit is direct connect to a couple of jack.
It is activated by a looper (relay switch). Same switch with other pedals have no ramp.... (There is no delay/silent circuit in the switch. It is standard relay looper from commercial industry).
What is can cause the ramp in the sound ?
But there is an issue on my built...
it's like a ramp in sound when I play the first note, only the first note when the pedal is engaged from the bypass status.
On the pedal there is no switch at all; the circuit is direct connect to a couple of jack.
It is activated by a looper (relay switch). Same switch with other pedals have no ramp.... (There is no delay/silent circuit in the switch. It is standard relay looper from commercial industry).
What is can cause the ramp in the sound ?
all controls at 0 and switchs off 9.00 volts at va point
D S G
Q1 4.87 / .703 / 0
Q2 9.00 / 4.86 / 4.29
Q3 4.80 / .187 / 0
Q4 9.00 / 4.80 / 4.30
Q5 4.68 /.193 /0
Q6 4.69/.176 / 0
all controls at 10 and all switches on 9.03 volts at va point
D S G
Q1 4.53 / .340 / 0 Q2 9.02 /9.01 / 4.29
Q2 9.02 /9.01 / 4.29
Q3 4.84 /.178 /0
Q4 9.02 / 9.01 /4.29
Q5 4.65 / .327 / -1.948
Q6 4.12/ .177 /0
can someone tell me if these readings seem right the pedal sounds good its just controls wide open and switches closed some readings are a lot different
D S G
Q1 4.87 / .703 / 0
Q2 9.00 / 4.86 / 4.29
Q3 4.80 / .187 / 0
Q4 9.00 / 4.80 / 4.30
Q5 4.68 /.193 /0
Q6 4.69/.176 / 0
all controls at 10 and all switches on 9.03 volts at va point
D S G
Q1 4.53 / .340 / 0 Q2 9.02 /9.01 / 4.29
Q2 9.02 /9.01 / 4.29
Q3 4.84 /.178 /0
Q4 9.02 / 9.01 /4.29
Q5 4.65 / .327 / -1.948
Q6 4.12/ .177 /0
can someone tell me if these readings seem right the pedal sounds good its just controls wide open and switches closed some readings are a lot different
Hi there, I'd like to share with you my experience regarding this build. The crucial part of the build is the selection and quality of transistors J201. I have experinced endless tweaking and trimming of 22k drain resistors of Q5 and Q6 to get the right voltages, but the overall sound was still miserable. Then I focused my attention to the transistors. I have found out that the Farchild originals are since Feb 2012 out of production.
Details see here: https://www.fairchildsemi.com/products/ ... /J201.html
Ooops, so that means that mostly everything you are buying today from Ebay, Aliexpress etc. at good prices are CHINESE FAKES with specs totally out of range compared to originals. So I decided to go for some replacements and took Toshiba's 2SK117s. Well, the sound has significantly improved, anyway slight biasing was still needed (trimmers installed), and the effect was whistling in some extreme settings. So, another google search, trying to find original J201 and found this video:
Based on that finding I have ordered MMBFJ201 from Conrad and passed through soldering exercise and put the legs to MMBFJ201. Then matched the J-FETs, by measuring Idss according to this very simple scheme - see last picture, chapter 11 of this document: http://www.runoffgroove.com/fetzervalve.html
I sorted out 6 J-FETS having Idss=0,70mA (+/- 0,05) and pushed them carefully into slots for transistors. What a miracle! All voltages were immediately as stated for original pedal in this thread and of course I kept both original values 22k drain resistors for Q5 and Q6 as stated in scheme. Finally I'd like to give an advice to existing and future builders to find out whether you have appropriate J201s by measuring voltage on gate of Q2. This shall be around 2.9 - 3.0 V, not 4.5V despite the fact that according to scheme you might assume there is a voltage divider 2x 1M resistors between VA and ground.
Then I made some minor mods in my unit by skipping / shorting C4 (22nF) on the input and removing R28 (1M) going to the ground in front of Q1. And I used WIMA capacitor for C7 (470pF) as it lies on signal path. I hope you'll find this experience useful...
Details see here: https://www.fairchildsemi.com/products/ ... /J201.html
Ooops, so that means that mostly everything you are buying today from Ebay, Aliexpress etc. at good prices are CHINESE FAKES with specs totally out of range compared to originals. So I decided to go for some replacements and took Toshiba's 2SK117s. Well, the sound has significantly improved, anyway slight biasing was still needed (trimmers installed), and the effect was whistling in some extreme settings. So, another google search, trying to find original J201 and found this video:
Based on that finding I have ordered MMBFJ201 from Conrad and passed through soldering exercise and put the legs to MMBFJ201. Then matched the J-FETs, by measuring Idss according to this very simple scheme - see last picture, chapter 11 of this document: http://www.runoffgroove.com/fetzervalve.html
I sorted out 6 J-FETS having Idss=0,70mA (+/- 0,05) and pushed them carefully into slots for transistors. What a miracle! All voltages were immediately as stated for original pedal in this thread and of course I kept both original values 22k drain resistors for Q5 and Q6 as stated in scheme. Finally I'd like to give an advice to existing and future builders to find out whether you have appropriate J201s by measuring voltage on gate of Q2. This shall be around 2.9 - 3.0 V, not 4.5V despite the fact that according to scheme you might assume there is a voltage divider 2x 1M resistors between VA and ground.
Then I made some minor mods in my unit by skipping / shorting C4 (22nF) on the input and removing R28 (1M) going to the ground in front of Q1. And I used WIMA capacitor for C7 (470pF) as it lies on signal path. I hope you'll find this experience useful...