BJF - Baby Blue Overdrive [ goop-alarm ] BJFE

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Donnerbox
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Post by Donnerbox »

AG what about a warranty situation ???

A thing is warranteed for a time period and no implied working period beyond that....

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analogguru
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Post by analogguru »

Donnerbox wrote:AG what about a warranty situation ???

A thing is warranteed for a time period and no implied working period beyond that....
Who cares about warranty ?

For example from Europe I have to pay shipping to US (and back) plus (re-)import taxes plus paperwork, telephone costs and waiting time to get the unit back.
No bootweaker will cover this expenses with his warranty.

Most pedals are not worth more than $100,--. As faster as it can be repaired as cheaper the costs. So service-friendly design IS an important part and sales argument.

Additionally you can see below that warranty is only BS-talk - or do you get your foxx Tonemachine repaired for free at the adress shown below ?

analogguru
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Post by Spewbag »

analogguru wrote:
However, if I get your point that most builders pot to keep the reverse engineers out or to hide the origins of their magic circuit or to keep the mystique going, I agree completely. There aren't many PCB circuits out there that need potting unless you want ultra-reliability. In that case you should pot the whole thing, not just a few components.
And the industry is using clear epoxy coating if it is really necessary, so you can see everything..... you want to see examples ?



analogguru
Normally agree with much of what you say AG but there can be huge differences in types of potting. Clear potting normally isn't as durable as colored potting because of the media that’s used in resin based urethanes and epoxies which is the reason why many are opaque. Look up the shore D specs on epoxies and urethanes clear and unclear most of the time there is a big difference.

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analogguru
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Post by analogguru »

Spewbag wrote: Normally agree with much of what you say AG but there can be huge differences in types of potting. Clear potting normally isn't as durable as colored potting because of the media that’s used in resin based urethanes and epoxies which is the reason why many are opaque. Look up the shore D specs on epoxies and urethanes clear and unclear most of the time there is a big difference.
As you say: differences in types of potting....
I was talking about coating as a countermeasure against humidity, etc.

I have pcb´s which have been designed for plant engineering (in outdoor use). They have been coated in 1987 and have been in use in summer and in winter.

It looks like they have been soldered and afterwards dipped in resin. Very hard to solder, and if you heat it up, it smells like resin too. After 20 years of use the coating is not broken and looks like on the first day....

analogguru
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MKB
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Post by MKB »

You do see the clear resin (conformal coating) on lots of PCB's. This stuff is mainly used for protection from humidity as you mentioned, not for securing components. You can get this stuff in spray cans, and our local board house has a cool computerized X/Y machine that deposits it on selected areas of a board. You can find examples of clear potting material, there are old Gibson humbuckers (on the Marauder IIRC) that are encapsulated in some clear material. Gibson potted their super humbuckers that came stock in some seventies Les Pauls with black potting material though.

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Post by analogguru »

MKB wrote:You do see the clear resin (conformal coating) on lots of PCB's. This stuff is mainly used for protection from humidity as you mentioned, not for securing components. You can get this stuff in spray cans, and our local board house has a cool computerized X/Y machine that deposits it on selected areas of a board.
Very interesting stuff...

I didn´t know that resin is available in spray cans; I only was aware of plastic (acryl laquer) coating in spray cans.

I can assure you that from the resin-treated boards never a component will loose itself without force - even when they aren´t soldered to the board anymore. It´s hard to replace a component but possible.

analogguru
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Post by seniorLoco »

Solder josks goop to hide ....period !!
"Curiosity may have killed the cat, but it saved the mice, who ate the cheese."

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Sardon
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Post by Sardon »

So, are these IC pedals like the Honey Bees?

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Post by modman »

Sardon wrote:So, are these IC pedals like the Honey Bees?
See this old thread bumped I was hoping to see some information popping up, ... why do you say they should be IC based? The only thing that's sure is that you cannot trust what builder says about his own gooped circuit...

Find one, degoop it. They only way to know...
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The Rotagilla
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Post by The Rotagilla »

Resurrecting this thread, did anyone ever trace one of these out? I have one but would like to try and avoid destroying it by de-gooping it, any suggestions as to the best way to go about it? Thanks.
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Post by Whoismarykelly »

The Rotagilla wrote:Resurrecting this thread, did anyone ever trace one of these out? I have one but would like to try and avoid destroying it by de-gooping it, any suggestions as to the best way to go about it? Thanks.
I doubt you would destroy it as the goop is soft. You would just have to pick it all away. You could pour new goop to replace it after tracing if you want it to look original. The topology of a lot of BJF pedals is very similar so its likely a couple different values away from the HBOD.

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The Rotagilla
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Post by The Rotagilla »

Whoismarykelly wrote:I doubt you would destroy it as the goop is soft. You would just have to pick it all away. You could pour new goop to replace it after tracing if you want it to look original. The topology of a lot of BJF pedals is very similar so its likely a couple different values away from the HBOD.
I kind of figured it isn't far off from the rest of his designs. How about using a heat gun to de-goop or is that overkill?
The television will not be revolutionized.

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