Dwarfcraft - Shiva  [traced]

General documentation, gut shot, schematic links, ongoing circuit tracing, deep thoughts ... all about boutique stompboxes.
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Aen
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Post by Aen »

Hey-o.

I know you guys like this kind of stuff.

Image

Image

Upside down bypass switch ZOMG!

Hope y'all like this better than the old Great Destroyer. BTW, I'm not trying to hide the circuit, I'm just a generally nervous builder, so I like to insulate the SHIT out of stuff.

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~arph
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Post by ~arph »

The jacks are misaligned.. :roll:

EDIT: again.
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MoreCowbell
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Post by MoreCowbell »

Very cool Aen -

I think I remember you mentioning that the Shiva was "loosely based" on 3 LPBs in series ? ( Tweaked from there )

I dig the Great Destroyers tone a bit more, but I think the Shiva has a bit more "mass appeal"

...cool artwork, BTW

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Aen
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Post by Aen »

~arph wrote:The jacks are misaligned.. :roll:

EDIT: again.

no, there's one on each side.

And yep, it's 3 transistor boosters with parts swapped out until DOOM was acheived.

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chris_d
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Post by chris_d »

Seems to me that with the electrical tape and free floating circuit boards, you are just asking for having to do repairs on these later.

It might be a good idea to look into alternate means of securing your components and shielding them from contact shorts?

The pedals i have heard sound fantastic, but, i really think you would be doing yourself a favor to make them a bit more bulletproof, particularly considering how equipment-abusive many of the folks who are likely to be interested in your pedals are prone to be.

I really enjoy the noise they make though. Nice work on that front.

-chris

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blanik
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Post by blanik »

i'm also a fan of the switchable starve pot... did that on my fuzz factory...

are there soundclips for the shiva?

(nice artwork)

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DWBH
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Post by DWBH »

What's starve?

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Aen
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Post by Aen »

There's video!






As far as the circuit boards are concerned- I'd really like to get PCBS that mount to the switch so that are suspended, but thats an EPIC investment I just don't have. Tape has been working for Devi Ever for years though, I'm not too worried.

Starve is a pot limiting current to the fuzz ciruit, whicg often makes them do whacky stuff.

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ech0es
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Post by ech0es »

Aen wrote: BTW, I'm not trying to hide the circuit,.
So give us a schematic !! :twisted:

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Aen
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Post by Aen »

Don't really have one drawn. I'll get you started though.

T1: 2n5088
t2: 2n3904
t3: 2n2222 (maybe there's more 2s in there, I dont recall. It's all 2s.)

switched Red LEDs between base and collecter on t2 and t3

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Post by Spewbag »

Dude! I use to live in Redwing went to the tech schhool....Been through Eau Claire many times. BTW cool Pedal

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Fuzzer
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Post by Fuzzer »

When you solder wires to those potentiometers that way, trough the hole, you weaken the contact between lug and the resistive element, and that makes them prone to 'opening', the pot doesn't work anymore. You should solder to the lug, or better, use pots which have holes through their lugs.
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salocin
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Post by salocin »

Fuzzer wrote:you weaken the contact between lug and the resistive element
How so?

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Fuzzer
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Post by Fuzzer »

Well, I guess, when you put the soldering iron right on there for a while, it starts to get damaged. I wasn't trying to be scientific about that, it's just that I've seen like 6-8 faulty controls that were soldered like that (lousy repairs), and when I took the pots out for measuring, one or more of the lugs had lost contact with the pot's 'resistor'.
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Torchy
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Post by Torchy »

Pot lugs are rivetted to the carbon track to make contact. When you solder to the rivet point the heat expands the rivet and loosens the connection (and can introduce extra resistance). You should always solder to the pin or lug away from the rivet point and be careful how much heat you use.

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salocin
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Post by salocin »

Sounds fair enough. Cheers.

(For the record, wasn't being argumentative, was genuinely curious)

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Aen
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Post by Aen »

hmm, cool, I might give that a shot. And double the time it takes to solder pots on... :( or the price of said pots.

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soulsonic
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Post by soulsonic »

If you're careful, you can bend the PCB pins into little hooks you can loop the wire on to solder in place.

And, using printed circuit boards to make things like mounting the switches easier doesn't necessarily have to be a big expense; you can etch the boards at home at a VERY modest cost. I etch most of my own boards, and the more I do it, the easier and quicker it gets. Sure it may take some time to do it, but it's still alot quicker than hand-wiring it all on perf. The only thing that really takes time is drawing up the design, and you only have to do that once. I'm sure you could design and etch up a home-made board for this very easily; it would save you a ton of headache in the long-run. Then, you wouldn't have to ruin your work by putting that stupid tape all over it.
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squrl
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Post by squrl »

even getting your boards made only costs around $100. not much for your business... it will definitely save you lots of time in the long run and time=money!

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~arph
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Post by ~arph »

Aen wrote: no, there's one on each side.
:lol: fair enough.. that is one way to put it.
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