Devi Ever - Aenima  [traced]

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hazelwould
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Post by hazelwould »

Skarrgus wrote:http://www.deviever.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=3333

So, once this one gets figured out, we also have the Torn's Peaker...
I was JUST gonna post this!

So if we have the TP->SM we've got the Shoegazer! I wonder how they stack em though?

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celadine
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Post by celadine »

Here's what I got:
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DE Aenima.BMP

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Skarrgus
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Post by Skarrgus »

hazelwould wrote:
Skarrgus wrote:http://www.deviever.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=3333

So, once this one gets figured out, we also have the Torn's Peaker...
I was JUST gonna post this!

So if we have the TP->SM we've got the Shoegazer! I wonder how they stack em though?
TP is the main fuzz and SM is the "More Fuzz".
The SM switch/ circuit is wired between the "Send" of the switch and the input of the TP, if that makes any sense without a digram. At least that's my assumption, considering the "More Fuzz" can only be used when the main fuzz is engaged. And, I'm guessing the gain and intensity controls are just pre and post volume controls for the SM.
Last edited by Skarrgus on 04 Feb 2009, 02:21, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by soulsonic »

That makes much more sense!
btw, what schematic drawing program do you use? It has the same look as alot of the Japanese schematics.
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Post by RnFR »

thanks for finishing this one off celadine. i just haven't had a chance to get back to it, and honestly, i think subconsciously i'm not sure i wanted to. it's a great sounding pedal though, worth checking out.
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Post by PurplePeopleEater »

celadine wrote:Here's what I got:
If you want to duplicate both circuits (Aenima - Torns Peaker) the switch should switch between either a 10k or a 100k collector resistor. As shown, it switches from 10k to 110k. Not a lot of difference, but in the quest for accuracy it might be better to correct.

Alternately, you could use the switching you show but change the 100k resistor to a 90k. That would give the same effect (10k or 100k resistance)
Devi Ever wrote:Now look to the lower left for the brown-black-yellow (100k) resistor below a green-green-red one (2.2m).

Replace that brown-black-yellow (100k) resistor with a brown-black-orange (10k) one, and you're good to go.

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celadine
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Post by celadine »

PurplePeopleEater wrote: If you want to duplicate both circuits (Aenima - Torns Peaker) the switch should switch between either a 10k or a 100k collector resistor. As shown, it switches from 10k to 110k. Not a lot of difference, but in the quest for accuracy it might be better to correct.
I thought putting 90K there might cause some consternation about 'where do I get a 90K resistor?'. It was a choice between accuracy and easier building. If my schematic is correct...
soulsonic wrote:btw, what schematic drawing program do you use? It has the same look as alot of the Japanese schematics.
Its called BSch3V, from here:
http://www.suigyodo.com/online/e/index.htm

The part values on Eagle schematics can be hard to read when printed out. And this one works nicely on my decrepit win98 machine. [smilie=seeker.gif]

@RnFR - That cap to V+ in the last section had me stumped, until I saw one of your schems had the same thing. Then a look at Tim Escobedo's lofomofo schem confirmed all the weirdness. :block:

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Post by PurplePeopleEater »

celadine wrote:
PurplePeopleEater wrote: If you want to duplicate both circuits (Aenima - Torns Peaker) the switch should switch between either a 10k or a 100k collector resistor. As shown, it switches from 10k to 110k. Not a lot of difference, but in the quest for accuracy it might be better to correct.
I thought putting 90K there might cause some consternation about 'where do I get a 90K resistor?'. It was a choice between accuracy and easier building. If my schematic is correct...

Here is another way to wire it so the switch goes between 10k and 100k -

BTW, good work on the schematic !


:D


.
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sw.GIF
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earthtonesaudio
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Post by earthtonesaudio »

If you tie the .001uF cap to ground instead of V+, there will be slightly less power supply noise in most cases. I think Tim's LofoMofo has it that way specifically to increase noise. :lol:
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Post by Scruffie »

Hey, late to this topic, was there any confirmation/ verified builds from the schematics provided?

Many thanks,
Scruffie.

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celadine
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Post by celadine »

Yeah, I've recently been messing with this on the breadboard, that schematic is ok. One caveat - regular 1n4148 diodes do NOT substitute for a transistor in the 1st stage. Why, I dunno, but I tested a bunch of stuff and that 2n2222A was a winner, even among other NPNs. I made a schemo of my diode findings so the way things are hooked up is easy to understand :

DE Aenima Diode mods.BMP

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Post by RnFR »

cool stuff celadine. definitely a neat little trick to add to the arsenal!
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Post by Scruffie »

Awesome work there guys then, cheers for verifying it celdadine. Now i've just gotta try and move it onto veroboard, unless someone wants to beat me there to it 'hint hint' although i will try, and post it up if i manage.

Thanks,
Scruffie.

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Post by deviever »

Schematic looks good.

Here ya go. Kinda tired... but I'm pretty sure all of that is kosher.

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Post by deviever »

I wrote this in the Soda Meiser thread but I wanted to post it here as well for those who didn't read it the first time...

- - -

I'm completely in favor of the information being available to the general public as I believe the role of pedal builder these days (and ever) really boils down to the service of circuit design and assembly for those who don't know how or don't want to (not to mention distribution, customer service, etc).

Otherwise, if you can do it with out the help of a pedal company, then you should, whether it's my circuit or who-ever. Freedom greater than tyranny, etc. etc.

That being the case, if there is anything you'd like from me in regards to any of my designs, feel free to give me an email devi@deviever.com and I'll do my best to provide answers. Unfortunately the build info for all my other current designs are scattered amongst my brain and hand drawn build diagrams that would take me forever to scan and interpret for you, so I apologize that the build info for the rest of the line can't come as easily as a nice schematic to post online.

Anyhow... what fun is it if you don't get to figure it out for yourselves? :thumbsup

Seriously though. I'm here to help as much as I can be of service. Just drop me an email as I won't be browsing the internet forums like I used to. And please be patient with me as I'm usually pretty busy, but I _will_ get back to your email eventually.

much love,
devi-

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Post by RnFR »

right on devi! much thanks again!
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Post by Scruffie »

Argh, i tried second vero layout for this but i still haven't got the hang of them, does anyone wanna give me some pointers on this latest failed attempt? (I have done a few previously, but this is the largest one yet and theyve been few and far between so a bit out of practice, i dunno why i just can't seem to grasp them properly even though i understand the schematic)

Thanks,
Scruffie.
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Post by Scruffie »

Aha, I think i've finally had one of those moments were i realise how to put the layout on vero finally, i shall go about trying to make a decent vero layout now and see how horribly wrong that one was... really horribly...

TaDa, Here it is... probably still a bit wrong but more on track I think, just a tad unsure about the end section, could a mod please delete the previous one, I'l stop posting these now i promise lol.
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Post by SpencerPedals »

Why'd you skip strips "g" and "h" completely? The practice in layout making is to usually favor the smallest feasible design, given the size constraints of boxes and all.

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Post by Scruffie »

They can just be ignored and removed, i only left them in as i set the size to the size of the standard small 9x25 board to start with, then assumed people could work out to remove them if they wanted, I probably should have removed them but... well my bad i guess.

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