Zvex - Woolly Mammoth [traced]
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- Joined: 20 Sep 2010, 20:19
I hate to sound stupid...but how do I know which ones call for electrolytics and which ones are filmcaps?
- Jarno
- Resistor Ronker
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1uF or greater --> most likely electrolytic
<1uF --> most likely film
<250pF --> can also be silver mica
<1nF --> can also be ceramic
As long as the value and voltage rating are sufficient it shouldn't make a difference (electrically).
<1uF --> most likely film
<250pF --> can also be silver mica
<1nF --> can also be ceramic
As long as the value and voltage rating are sufficient it shouldn't make a difference (electrically).
"It crackles....., but that's ok"
- bumblebee
- Diode Debunker
Except the output will be from the center volume lug,not the PCB.danr wrote:
from the Beavis Audio site.
I so dislike the modern digital world that I need to use semi-digital effects to emulate the analog world of cassette, VHS, and vinyl.
Ive just ordered parts to build a Woolly Mammoth using the Fuzzy Elephant, but i could not get hold of R5 (4.99k) so i ordered 4.7k and 5.1k but does anyone know which one works best or gets closest to the original ? or is there a way to build a little flick switch in to switch between them ?
thanks
thanks
Is this what i need to get ? i dont understand the specs other than the 4.99kSeiche wrote:they will both sound equally BAD! you HAVE to get the 4.99k!
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/sear ... &R=6833796
I'd like to change the EQ on this and was wondering...would I adjust the values of C3, C5 and R5, R6 using analogguru's schematic? From my limited knowledge that looks to be the 'big muff' tone section. TIA.rocko.
- Dan N
- Resistor Ronker
blenk wrote:Is this what i need to get ? i dont understand the specs other than the 4.99kSeiche wrote:they will both sound equally BAD! you HAVE to get the 4.99k!
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/sear ... &R=6833796
blenk was messing with you. 4K7 or 5K1 are both fine choices.
Dick joke has expired.
aww what i spend hours looking for that oh well as long as they both work as good then thats ok cheersDan N wrote:blenk wrote:Is this what i need to get ? i dont understand the specs other than the 4.99kSeiche wrote:they will both sound equally BAD! you HAVE to get the 4.99k!
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/sear ... &R=6833796
blenk was messing with you. 4K7 or 5K1 are both fine choices.
- Seiche
- Old Solderhand
ahaha, I'm sorry! I was obviously jokingblenk wrote:aww what i spend hours looking for that oh well as long as they both work as good then thats ok cheers
i reread and saw that i forgot to add a smiley face. What I meant to tell you was that you most definitely won't hear a difference if you change the value of one resistor by about 2%. If you use carbon comp you have a built in tolerance of 5% anyway. So metal films with 1% tolerance could even be the exact same real value (one being a bit over and one being a bit under the declared value). Don't worry, just use a 5k1 or 4k7 (5k1 ist closer to 4k99 so I would try using that, just because I'm neurotic like that)
- LaceSensor
- Cap Cooler
I finished my Wully Mammuth today.
(note, ive just started this game, built a few SHOs to practice, moved onto a silicon Fuzz Factory, now this. I havent finalised decals etc yet, so apologies for the naked alu finish).
Worked first time based on a layout by IvIark over at http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/
I used a 1k pot for the "Wool" control (Fuzz) based on a recommendation in a thread here or somewhere, works great. Also, I used a 5.1k resistor rather than the 4.99k listed. Finally, I didnt have any 500k pots, so I used a 470k for the "Pinch" knob. Seems to work and sound very close to Youtube (never tried a real one in person).
Other than that, pretty standard. Polybox caps, 1% metal film resistors. 3mm green LED. Millenium bypass.
Here is a gutshot:
And here is the outside, for now:
Thanks to everyone in this thread for the help, ideas, comments and inspiration.
(note, ive just started this game, built a few SHOs to practice, moved onto a silicon Fuzz Factory, now this. I havent finalised decals etc yet, so apologies for the naked alu finish).
Worked first time based on a layout by IvIark over at http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/
I used a 1k pot for the "Wool" control (Fuzz) based on a recommendation in a thread here or somewhere, works great. Also, I used a 5.1k resistor rather than the 4.99k listed. Finally, I didnt have any 500k pots, so I used a 470k for the "Pinch" knob. Seems to work and sound very close to Youtube (never tried a real one in person).
Other than that, pretty standard. Polybox caps, 1% metal film resistors. 3mm green LED. Millenium bypass.
Here is a gutshot:
And here is the outside, for now:
Thanks to everyone in this thread for the help, ideas, comments and inspiration.
- IvIark
- Tube Twister
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Nice job Ian
"If anyone is a 'genius' for putting jacks in such a pedal in the only spot where they could physically fit, then I assume I too am a genius for correctly inserting my legs into my pants this morning." - candletears7 - TGP
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- Joined: 01 Nov 2008, 19:34
bumblebee wrote:The pinch may work but it works best with around 190. if its too high it just wont work at all, turning the pinch knob does nothing much at all. Just try it. I cant remember the highest I've had in Q2 but it wasnt like 600 or anything and the pinch wouldnt work.
It will work with 200/210 so you may get lucky.
When I buy 2N3904's I buy at least 50 at a time so i can get low hFE ones.
BTW, I buy mine from smallbear, they are motorola and I always get a shit load of 170-200 ones in that 50.
Hi all!
I bought 100 2N3904's from Diotronic, a shop of my city here in Barcelona, Spain.
After spending a lot of time testing them with an Atlas DCA, I can tell you that 98 of them are between 170 and 190 hfe (one was 167 and the other 192. I feel lucky!)
There's no brand on it, just the code, so I can't tell you more reference.
I wrote an email to them two days ago, asking for the brand of that transistors, but i'm still waiting for an answer...
Also, I finished my build of the "Sabertooth" with Madbean's pcb yesterday.
It's wired without a switch right now, but with the led. At first view it seems to work all properly, except one little issue that I don't know if it's normal.
The pinch pot pinches and sounds right from the beginning to a half of it's range (it's a 500kB pot, as usual), but from the half till the end... Sonds right, but the gate effect is too intense. It cuts the sound too quickly loosing to much sustain for my taste.
Also it appears some kind of oscillation when trying to sustain a note that it doesn't have in a lower range of the pot.
Is there any way to reduce that range and make the pot more useful? Or maybe it's a bias issue?
Thanks for your time guys! You're great!
- rasta_maleek
- Resistor Ronker
nothing more to say.