BJF - Honey Bee Overdrive degooped  [traced]

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mcnabbanov
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Post by mcnabbanov »

So is there a great different (if any) between Mike's vero and the Madbean yellow shark?? Soundwise at least...has anyone built both?
There seem to be a couple more components on the yellow shark. :thumbsup

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Lonkero
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Post by Lonkero »

Hey everybody!

Gonna build this pedal for me and my friend. But what I've heard it can be quite dark sounding, and I wanna add a one switch to get more higher freqs out of it.

Possible places I've thought looking at the schem are the input cap (47nf), or C11 (madbean) 1uf cap in the output. Any other suggestions? :horsey:

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Post by B_of_H »

condorface wrote:Finally applied Bajaman's mods to my pedal and it sounds much better. I still have intermittent octave down transients in the sound, but it is lessened for some reason. I think that will go away when I switch to the original ic. I like the slight treble boost that it gives. Should be a nice companion to my dark neck pickup. Thanks Bajaman :thumbsup
i've got these same 'transient octave down' sounds around the notes and the larger cap makes it worse and i'm using a ca3140 from small bear. I probed it and the opamp seemed to be the issue as it was fine before the opamp then everything after that had the noise.

:hmmm:

If anyone can update this issue and condorface can update his findings I'd appreciate it.

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Post by mmolteratx »

B_of_H wrote:
condorface wrote:Finally applied Bajaman's mods to my pedal and it sounds much better. I still have intermittent octave down transients in the sound, but it is lessened for some reason. I think that will go away when I switch to the original ic. I like the slight treble boost that it gives. Should be a nice companion to my dark neck pickup. Thanks Bajaman :thumbsup
i've got these same 'transient octave down' sounds around the notes and the larger cap makes it worse and i'm using a ca3140 from small bear. I probed it and the opamp seemed to be the issue as it was fine before the opamp then everything after that had the noise.

:hmmm:

If anyone can update this issue and condorface can update his findings I'd appreciate it.
Curious about this as well. I'm using a CA3140 from Small Bear and have the same problem. I guess I'll have to order a CA3130 and see if it changes anything.

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Post by B_of_H »

mmolteratx wrote:
B_of_H wrote:
condorface wrote:Finally applied Bajaman's mods to my pedal and it sounds much better. I still have intermittent octave down transients in the sound, but it is lessened for some reason. I think that will go away when I switch to the original ic. I like the slight treble boost that it gives. Should be a nice companion to my dark neck pickup. Thanks Bajaman :thumbsup
i've got these same 'transient octave down' sounds around the notes and the larger cap makes it worse and i'm using a ca3140 from small bear. I probed it and the opamp seemed to be the issue as it was fine before the opamp then everything after that had the noise.

:hmmm:

If anyone can update this issue and condorface can update his findings I'd appreciate it.
Curious about this as well. I'm using a CA3140 from Small Bear and have the same problem. I guess I'll have to order a CA3130 and see if it changes anything.
the ca3130 solved the issue for me fwiw.

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Post by aflynt »

I built a clone of this on Madbean's Yellow Shark board. The highs are just about perfect on mine. They match the dry sound exactly. The nature control is a bit weird, though but I wouldn't change it. It doesn't seem to do much of anything beyond noon. From noon to zero it just adds a lot of low end. Sometimes it sounds like maybe is removing a tad more bass from noon to full, but it's so subtle that it's entirely possible I'm imagining it.

Personally, I think it's a really cool pedal. I used it Saturday night and left it on most of the evening. We played in a pretty small place, so I ran my Pro Jr. somewhat lower than usual. Just on the verge of breaking up when you hit the strings really hard. I set the Honey Bee for about unity gain. When engaged it sounded pretty similar to the amp when I run it hotter, but at a lower volume. In some ways it sounded a bit better actually.

For what it's worth, when I was populating the board I just used a bunch of old carbon film resistors I had laying around. Most of them actually measured quite a bit lower than their color codes indicated. Not sure how much of a difference that would make, but to me this pedal sounds awesome.

Image
Image

-Aaron

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hewie
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Post by hewie »

Nice work. Graphic is great, I also like the yellow wiring 8)

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Post by lohstah »

after doing the work on the bluebery, i wanted to adapt mike´s honey bee layout with the blueberry values to see how it would compare to the blueberry and if it would be closer to the famous original blueberry which is supposed to be less gainy, more mild and dark. and i noticed what tjmicsak already pointed out: the vero is different from the schematic in where the nature pot reconnects (also does not match the blueberry in that sense). i added some changes to mike´s vero reflecting those differences:
honeybee_verified7-1 icluding lohstah corrections.jpg
cheers,
lohstah

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Post by lohstah »

p.s. it also includes R17 which makes it possible to include the 220n in series with 4K7 combo which is present in the bearfoot version and the blueberry.

cheers,
lohstah

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Post by monkeyxx »

I've just built the stripboard layout here with Lohstah's corrections. Works great, I like the nature knob, volume output is fine for even a high-ish output humbucker guitar I tried. Seems at its best with the brighter guitars, gain does not go beyond light overdrive even with a high output guitar. I played it most with a single coil strat and had a nice time with it, seems very responsive and generally amp like, natural, pleasant sounding. Nature knob gets pretty thick full-CCW and a slight gain boost full-CW, good and predictable sound in between. I'd recommend this circuit, for sure! If you're wanting a nice sounding mild overdrive, which for me has always been a useful sound. Looking forward to stacking it with my fuzzes into a clean amp to see what happens there. I'd love to meet someone with an original to compare to. For now, sounds close enough to the Youtube demos I've seen to satisfy my curiosity regarding that.

Here's some pictures of my populated board. The green LEDs will blink when you play hard! you could do a double seeing eye thing on your enclosure if you were inclined toward awesomeness. Maybe a little bee??

Big thanks to all the people who made this happen, and to BJ for a nice sounding and novel circuit! :thumbsup

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Image

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Post by monkeyxx »

Oh yeah, forgot to mention, I'm using a TL071 until I can get ahold of the proper op amp

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Seiche
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Post by Seiche »

what are diffused LEDs? are those the standard (non superbright)? are they an absolute necessity?

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Post by danielzink »

Seiche wrote:what are diffused LEDs? are those the standard (non superbright)? are they an absolute necessity?

Correct - standard - non-super bright.

With regards to are they necessary.....measure Vf between a superbright green LED and a standard diffused green LED and make your choice from there ;)

Dan
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Seiche
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Post by Seiche »

ah ok, just wanted to know if they are some special kind, thanks :thumbsup

also the madbean pcb pdf states red 5mm diffused are preferable. why? has anyone made similar experiences?

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Post by HEAD »

Seiche wrote:[...]also the madbean pcb pdf states red 5mm diffused are preferable. why? has anyone made similar experiences?
danielzink wrote: [...]
With regards to are they necessary.....measure Vf between a superbright green LED and a standard diffused green LED and make your choice from there
... so it's maybe on you to do a little homework regarding the topic "what does forward voltage (Vf) of a diode mean and what effect could it have in a diode clipper application?" It's all there! ;) :mrgreen:

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Post by Seiche »

what makes you think i didn't read up on it? my question was referring to regular diffused green and red leds. one source i found stated they would be almost the same. another source said red has a lower Vf. So you reckon it's basically just down to slightly earlier clipping in the red LEDs? (I admit I don't know much about EE, i always try to improve, though)

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Post by monkeyxx »

danielzink wrote:Shrink 'em down !!


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Dan
any tips or links on how to get that cool translucent finish? I love it mine doesn't look nearly as good with a conventional paint job, love the bjfe finish want to know the secrets!!

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Post by Seiche »

monkeyxx wrote:any tips or links on how to get that cool translucent finish? I love it mine doesn't look nearly as good with a conventional paint job, love the bjfe finish want to know the secrets!!
+1 I would like to know too. it's way cooler than the standard one solid color boxes.
danielzink wrote:Image
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this is probably the most beautiful thing i've ever seen :shock:

where did you get the cool IC from?

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Post by danielzink »

Seiche wrote:
monkeyxx wrote:any tips or links on how to get that cool translucent finish? I love it mine doesn't look nearly as good with a conventional paint job, love the bjfe finish want to know the secrets!!
+1 I would like to know too. it's way cooler than the standard one solid color boxes.
danielzink wrote:Image
Image
Image
this is probably the most beautiful thing i've ever seen :shock:

where did you get the cool IC from?

I've got a ton of 'em.

Gotta be diligent on eBay. and haunting the parts shops....

No difference between the DIP8 and TO-99 versions (as far as sound)......they just look cooler.

as far as the finish - it's a combination of much (very much) sanding.....dremel tool, application of finish, wet sanding, clearcoating, more wet sanding, more clearcoating....

I can get a board together in an hour or so...it takes 3 dasy to do the finish....

Dan
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Post by DaveKerr »

That mottled look, though, it looks like you may have used a rag method - base of the lighter shade, and then using a crumpled cloth to dab on the darker?
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