Rockbox - Boiling Point [traced]
- hotguit
- Breadboard Brother
Hi
I have re-checked the layout comparing it with a Landgraff DOD's working layout and it semms to me that the layout is OK.
Thare must be any error in populating the pcb or any bad component (maybe any electrolitic or tantalium cap)
I'll let you know
Hot
I have re-checked the layout comparing it with a Landgraff DOD's working layout and it semms to me that the layout is OK.
Thare must be any error in populating the pcb or any bad component (maybe any electrolitic or tantalium cap)
I'll let you know
Hot
I'm building this pedal, but couldn't find a 4,99m resistor, so I bought a 5,1m instead. Will it make any difference? BTW i found a verified vero on sabrotone.com
http://www.sabrotone.com/wp-content/upl ... gPoint.gif
http://www.sabrotone.com/wp-content/upl ... gPoint.gif
It has more output volume because its higher clipping level. A tube screamer has a clipped signal of 1,2 volts peak to peak. Boiling has 2,4 volts in asymmetrical and 2,6 to 3 volts (depending on the manufacturer) in the LED's clipping.pago85 wrote: The Boiling point looked a not just clone of TS.
I am wondering if anyone find a reason why BP is higher volume out put.
I do not have one here, but I am suspecting they use common emitter circuit on both
in and out buffer section. this is the reason why yellow tantalum besides transiser (or) Fet.
A common Emitter circuit is like this, http://230nsc1.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbasees ... npnce.html
Any idea, please
I made it using the vero layout, but i'm facing some problems. First, the boost mode has much more gain than the other two modes. Second, the bass switch isn't working. Has anyone got any ideas what may be the problem?
- joeboo88
- Resistor Ronker
hey Troll_face, I built this awhile ago from the same layout.
It sounds like the problem is coming from the switches(wiring), but also check the orienting
of the diodes.
On the layout, it says CLIP SW2 to BASS SW2 (I ran a jumper from switch to switch)
look at the layout ...clip switch 2 (middle) is off , only goes thru R6 to drive, you should have basically boost only.
clip SW1 uses the LEDS and clip SW3 uses the diodes. clip switch - on off on type spdt bass switch - on-on spdt
Unless I'm out to lunch. Take a long look to see that all is correct.
I usually blame the layout , swear a bunch of times....look at the schematic, look over the vero, then realize I did something dumb, like forgetting a resistor or miss a aligning on a row. Then once it finally works, i think WOW what a smart fella I am
Good luck
It sounds like the problem is coming from the switches(wiring), but also check the orienting
of the diodes.
On the layout, it says CLIP SW2 to BASS SW2 (I ran a jumper from switch to switch)
look at the layout ...clip switch 2 (middle) is off , only goes thru R6 to drive, you should have basically boost only.
clip SW1 uses the LEDS and clip SW3 uses the diodes. clip switch - on off on type spdt bass switch - on-on spdt
Unless I'm out to lunch. Take a long look to see that all is correct.
I usually blame the layout , swear a bunch of times....look at the schematic, look over the vero, then realize I did something dumb, like forgetting a resistor or miss a aligning on a row. Then once it finally works, i think WOW what a smart fella I am
Good luck
Ebay is a fucker ~ Sinner - If this is something unique, then I'm a teletubbie ~also Sinner
- fretzburner
- Breadboard Brother
Error: Transistor base and collector inverted(base is center) and your clipping diode should be 1 vs 3 diodes not 2x2diodes.That's all i saw error and the rest are okay.hotguit wrote:LAYOUT NOT VERIFIED - IT DOS NOT WORK
Hi
here is the layout for boiling point based on schem on page 3
I built it and it does NOT work
It seems ok to me but it does not work. It is quite as a grave, no sound at all (neither ssshhh or hum or anything else; absolute silence)
So can anybody take a look at the layout? Maybe i made a mistake in populating pcb but not sure
thank you
hot
Finally i made it working. However on the boost mode, when i roll of gain to get a clean boost, output is very low and it still isn't completely clean. Is it how it should or should i check again for mistakes?
- joeboo88
- Resistor Ronker
Hi, Troll_face sorry your having trouble, with the switch centered your boost should be pretty loud with no gain. Is the electro cap C9 oriented the right way?
Neg should face the output connection ...sometimes its hard to diagnose a problem, without things like voltage readings and pictures.
good luck.
Neg should face the output connection ...sometimes its hard to diagnose a problem, without things like voltage readings and pictures.
good luck.
Ebay is a fucker ~ Sinner - If this is something unique, then I'm a teletubbie ~also Sinner
- joeboo88
- Resistor Ronker
sorry i meant it should be loud, with not much gain. I'm not home and i cant remember if the pedal works with no gain, i suspect it does.
Ebay is a fucker ~ Sinner - If this is something unique, then I'm a teletubbie ~also Sinner
I checked soundclips of the pedal on youtube again. Mine sounds just like it should. I was just expecting much more from it since I saw the proguitrshop demo.
- hotguit
- Breadboard Brother
Thank youfretzburner wrote:Error: Transistor base and collector inverted(base is center) and your clipping diode should be 1 vs 3 diodes not 2x2diodes.That's all i saw error and the rest are okay.hotguit wrote:LAYOUT NOT VERIFIED - IT DOS NOT WORK
Hi
here is the layout for boiling point based on schem on page 3
I built it and it does NOT work
It seems ok to me but it does not work. It is quite as a grave, no sound at all (neither ssshhh or hum or anything else; absolute silence)
So can anybody take a look at the layout? Maybe i made a mistake in populating pcb but not sure
thank you
hot
i just noticed wrong transistors orientation but i missed diodes orientation.
I'll try to fix it
thank you
Hot
I don't know from personal experience if Harold's veroboard is working (though it says "VERIFIED" right on it). The simplest, quickest, and less-potential-for-failure way to build a BP clone is to just get a TS808 PCB and modify the changed values on the board. Then off-board wire the clipping & bass options directly on the toggle switches.
If you don't know how to read a schematic yet to do this, this is the perfect time to learn, since it's relatively simple & TS808 boards are easily available from several sources. Here's just a few:
http://buildyourownclone.com/overdrive.html
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/com ... gory_id=16
http://www.tonepad.com/tonepadshoppingcart.html
If you don't know how to read a schematic yet to do this, this is the perfect time to learn, since it's relatively simple & TS808 boards are easily available from several sources. Here's just a few:
http://buildyourownclone.com/overdrive.html
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/com ... gory_id=16
http://www.tonepad.com/tonepadshoppingcart.html
Owner & designer at VFE Pedals. Please email me directly at peter@vfecustom.com if you need a quick response.
- beedotman
- Diode Debunker
Information
remember about madbean's GreenBeanVonRutter wrote:I don't know from personal experience if Harold's veroboard is working (though it says "VERIFIED" right on it). The simplest, quickest, and less-potential-for-failure way to build a BP clone is to just get a TS808 PCB and modify the changed values on the board. Then off-board wire the clipping & bass options directly on the toggle switches.
If you don't know how to read a schematic yet to do this, this is the perfect time to learn, since it's relatively simple & TS808 boards are easily available from several sources. Here's just a few:
http://buildyourownclone.com/overdrive.html
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/com ... gory_id=16
http://www.tonepad.com/tonepadshoppingcart.html
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/G ... enBean.pdf
http://www.turretboard.org 4 life!
- hbo
- Breadboard Brother
Information
Should work. I built this one myself just to verify the layout and I had no problems with it.bencoles wrote:IS HARALDS VERO WORKING??