Rockbox - Boiling Point  [traced]

General documentation, gut shot, schematic links, ongoing circuit tracing, deep thoughts ... all about boutique stompboxes.
Pyr0
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Post by Pyr0 »

bencoles wrote:IS HARALDS VERO WORKING??
Yes, it works fine, I just built one a few weeks ago.

hotguit
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Post by hotguit »

Hi everybody
Here i attached the layout and the pcb of the Boiling Point
it is BUILT AND VERIFIED. It works perfectly and sounds as it should.
It fit is a small Eddystone enclosure.
Have fun
bye
hot
Attachments
render file
render file
pcb - resize it before printing
pcb - resize it before printing
PnP REV 1.gif (6.77 KiB) Viewed 1253 times

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Post by dromilious »

hotguit wrote:Hi everybody
Here i attached the layout and the pcb of the Boiling Point
it is BUILT AND VERIFIED. It works perfectly and sounds as it should.
It fit is a small Eddystone enclosure.
Have fun
bye
hot
Thanks for the layout.R12 is 1 k? or 1 ohm or something else?
also the CC notes for the resistors what mean?Thanks

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Post by bencoles »

CC= Carbon Comp i think??

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Post by sinner »

BP is traced? When? Cool :thumbsup

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Post by dromilious »

i guess it is carbon comp and r12 is 1k like the vero.

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beedotman
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Post by beedotman »

sinner wrote:BP is traced? When? Cool :thumbsup
We're waiting for Your vero for BP, Sinner!
Those 100nF filtering caps here and there, shouldn't make significant difference, right?

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Post by sinner »

@askwho69 - I'm sure B.Man was just sarcastic, but... who knows ;)

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beedotman
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Post by beedotman »

askwho69 wrote:i think that 100nf are just power filtering no sound difference :D i made mind using GGG's layout and it work :D
I know, mate.
I'm just wondering if there's any justification for placing them everywhere around...

hotguit
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Post by hotguit »

Hi
R12 is 1K CC (carbon composition)
That pcb works perfectly
bye
hot

andregarcia57
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Post by andregarcia57 »

Barcode wrote:FINALLY here is that dual layer board I used. It's verified. Don't forget to make the vias.
Kelvin.pdf [206.6 KiB] schematic ok?

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Post by IvIark »

This is verified for anyone wanting a vero layout

Image
"If anyone is a 'genius' for putting jacks in such a pedal in the only spot where they could physically fit, then I assume I too am a genius for correctly inserting my legs into my pants this morning." - candletears7 - TGP

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Post by andregarcia57 »

IvIark wrote:This is verified for anyone wanting a vero layout

Image
ok, thank you!

do you have schematic?

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Post by IvIark »

"If anyone is a 'genius' for putting jacks in such a pedal in the only spot where they could physically fit, then I assume I too am a genius for correctly inserting my legs into my pants this morning." - candletears7 - TGP

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Post by alexirae »

Hi guys,

Someone know how can I compensate the volume drop when you change the switch from middle position to any of the diode clipping positions?

I was thinking about a volume reduction in the middle position but I don't know how.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

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Post by candletears7 »

Alexirae,

That volume drop occurs because in the other positions the diodes clip the signal and the output volume. In the centre 'off' position, you have no clipping, so the opamp is increasing the signal dramatically with nothing clamping it later. So it sounds very loud compared to the other settings.
Here's what I would do to get some relative volume persepctive going on in your 3 clipping diode options.

Replace the on-off-on switch with an on-on-on. This means each throw much select a clipping option, as opposed to having the centre 'no clipping at all' option.

position 1) the standard 3x1 silicon diode array as shown in Iviark's vero (thanks for that too mate!)
position 2) your 2 LED's. (LED's are very open sounding, almost like no clipping if the gain is down and the volume is up)
position 3) the classic Tubescreamer 1x1 symmetrical silicon diode array.

In fact, you can experiment with diode clipping on this switch. Any combination you want.
Just Google 'Landgraff style clipping mods'. The Rockbox pretty much just takes off on the L'DO style clipping mods.

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Post by Barcode »

alexirae wrote:Hi guys,

Someone know how can I compensate the volume drop when you change the switch from middle position to any of the diode clipping positions?

I was thinking about a volume reduction in the middle position but I don't know how.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!
It's the nature of the beast. When you switch clipping diodes, it's going to affect how much the signal is being clipped, and thus how much headroom the signal has. When the signal is clipped more, you get more gain but less volume (mostly, this is an oversimplification).

If you wanted the volume the exact same in all positions, you'd either need some serious switching that switched in different volume controls or you'd have to build some sort of gain compensation circuit that changed based on the position. Needless complication. How often are you going to be change the clipping in the middle of playing?

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Post by Syder »

hotguit wrote:Hi everybody
Here i attached the layout and the pcb of the Boiling Point
it is BUILT AND VERIFIED. It works perfectly and sounds as it should.
It fit is a small Eddystone enclosure.
Have fun
bye
hot
Hey, I used your layout and I found 2 mistakes, so I don't think yours is sounding as it should, since you have a 0.0022u (2n2) input cap instead of 0.022u (22n) and you also have a wrong connection for the 10k resistor at the feedback of the first opamp. You should replace R5 with a jumper and throw the 10k resistor from the board to lug 2-1 of the gain pot, or simply omit the resistor with no tonal change.
Thanks.

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Post by Pyr0 »

Syder wrote:
hotguit wrote:Hi everybody
Here i attached the layout and the pcb of the Boiling Point
it is BUILT AND VERIFIED. It works perfectly and sounds as it should.
It fit is a small Eddystone enclosure.
Have fun
bye
hot
Hey, I used your layout and I found 2 mistakes, so I don't think yours is sounding as it should, since you have a 0.0022u (2n2) input cap instead of 0.022u (22n) and you also have a wrong connection for the 10k resistor at the feedback of the first opamp. You should replace R5 with a jumper and throw the 10k resistor from the board to lug 2-1 of the gain pot, or simply omit the resistor with no tonal change.
Thanks.
I'm just building one using this layout, so good catch on the input cap.
It doesn't matter what side of the gain pot that 10k resistor is on, it will work the same.

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