Janglebox  [traced]

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madbean
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Post by madbean »

Either way should work fine, although as a variable resistor it make more sense. As a voltage divider, it would be better to have a resistor between the pin and ground.

I can amend my layout to include both options.

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Post by madbean »

Here's a revision that allows you to connect the Sustain pot either way via one jumper. It could be a useful mod...it might give a different feel. Dunno.

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Post by pedalgrinder »

absolutely sensational once again madbean i swear your blood is worth bottling. i got to admit adding a treble booster is the go cause it picks up what most compressor's seem to drop depending on which one of course. But a nice tone control after a a compressor can really make the best of everything.
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Post by plesur »

Here's my layout. It is verified.
jB v0.3 PCB.jpg
jB v0.3 components.jpg
Drill sizes are 0.9mm for components and 1.3mm for the pots.

Here's the schematic:
jB v0.3 schematic.pdf
(26.74 KiB) Downloaded 1101 times
A couple of changes in this version of the schematic, the pots in the previous version were reversed and I've now added a drop down resistor at the output (R9) that was present in the original Ric compressor.

Here's the parts list:

Code: Select all

C1       22u
C2       22n
C3       10n
C4       10n
C5       10n
C6       470p
C7       2u2
C8       2u2
C9       2u2
C10      2u2
C11      2u2
D3       1N4001
D4       1N4148
D5       1N4148
IC       CA3080E or NTE996
Q1       2N5088 or 2N5089
Q2       2N5088 or 2N5089
Q3       2N5088 or 2N5089
Q4       2N5088 or 2N5089
Q5       2N5088 or 2N5089
R1       1M
R2       10k
R3       1M
R4       10k
R5       1M
R6       8k2
R7       1M
R8       1M
R9       10k
R14      10k
R15      10M
R16      1M
R17      1M
R18      1M
R19      10k
R20      220k
R21      10M
R22      10k
R23      92k
R24      68k
R25      33k
R26      33k
SUSTAIN  250k LIN
LEVEL    250k LIN
SW1      ON-OFF-ON
TRIM     1k
Recommended mods:
Change R23 to 10K for more volume at output, the original value, 92k, gave slightly less than unity gain at full volume.

This layout has been designed with Wimas caps in mind, so you can use those huge 2u2 Wimas MKS2 63V :D

Also, the trimpot is a precision 20 turn one like this:
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/potenti ... 3296w.html

Enjoy.

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madbean
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Post by madbean »

Great looking layout and a nice use of trace fillets, plesur!

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Post by plesur »

Thanks madbean, I learnt a lot from looking at the layouts you do. :thumbsup

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Post by telecaster »

What program are you guys using for these layouts. They look very good.
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Post by plesur »

telecaster wrote:What program are you guys using for these layouts. They look very good.
Mostly Eagle with a bit of Illustrator at the end.

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Post by plesur »

Here's a couple of pictures of my build. I like those huge Wimas, they look like little skyscrapers.

Image
Image

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Post by coldcraft »

is the bright/normal/dark toggle in this build "on-on-on" or "on-off-on"?
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Post by plesur »

coldcraft wrote:is the bright/normal/dark toggle in this build "on-on-on" or "on-off-on"?
It's on=off-on.

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Post by ShortScaleMike »

Has anyone had any success with the Vero in this thread? (I'm using the one with the modifications to unground Sustain lug 1)

I have the trim set up with 500 ohms either side so the CA3080E I'm using (Harris) should be set up OK, however I'm getting no sound at all with any setting of the Volume and Sustain knobs, and if I pull Q5 to remove the feedback loop I get some sound, but it's horribly distorted and cuts out.

Does anyone have some good voltages for the transistors and op-amp? Do I need to use an NTE996 for this? They're £8 here and it would be ordered from the US so that would take a while...

I've tried multiple CA3080Es and 2n5088s and 2n3904s with no change I'm afraid. I'm not very familar with compressor circuits, where should I start to look for what's wrong?

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Post by plesur »

ShortScaleMike wrote:Does anyone have some good voltages for the transistors and op-amp? Do I need to use an NTE996 for this? They're £8 here and it would be ordered from the US so that would take a while...
The NTE996 should be equivalent to a CA3080E. It is just what was used in the original unit. I used a CA3080E in my build with no problems.

I'll get back to you later with some voltages from my build.

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Post by ShortScaleMike »

plesur wrote:
ShortScaleMike wrote:Does anyone have some good voltages for the transistors and op-amp? Do I need to use an NTE996 for this? They're £8 here and it would be ordered from the US so that would take a while...
The NTE996 should be equivalent to a CA3080E. It is just what was used in the original unit. I used a CA3080E in my build with no problems.

I'll get back to you later with some voltages from my build.
Thanks that would be ace. This one has me really stumped. I've checked over the veroboard layout and it seems fine compared to the schematic, and equally I can't see anything wrong with my build after staring at it for a while. Some voltages would really help.

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Post by plesur »

plesur wrote: I'll get back to you later with some voltages from my build.
OK, Here we go. Battery reads 9.3V. Readings taken with Sustain and Volume on full, test signal running.

IC:
1 No connection
2 2.3V
3 2.3V
4 0
5 0.6V
6 2.3V
7 9.3V
8 No connection

Transistors (C B E)
Q1: 9.3V 1.4V 2.0V
Q2: 8.8V 2.3V 2.4V
Q3: 1.3V 60mV 0
Q4: 1.3V 60mV 0
Q5: 9.3V 0 1.3V

Without the test signal:
Q1: 9.3V 1.4V 2.0V
Q2: 8.8V 0.8V 0.4V
Q3: 4.5V 0 0
Q4: 4.5V 0 0
Q5: 9.3V 4.5V 8.2V

Hope this helps you get yours up and running.

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Post by mictester »

ShortScaleMike wrote:
plesur wrote:
ShortScaleMike wrote:Does anyone have some good voltages for the transistors and op-amp? Do I need to use an NTE996 for this? They're £8 here and it would be ordered from the US so that would take a while...
The NTE996 should be equivalent to a CA3080E. It is just what was used in the original unit. I used a CA3080E in my build with no problems.

I'll get back to you later with some voltages from my build.
Thanks that would be ace. This one has me really stumped. I've checked over the veroboard layout and it seems fine compared to the schematic, and equally I can't see anything wrong with my build after staring at it for a while. Some voltages would really help.
R16 (1M) looks much too big to me - the original had 150k with a 10µ for the capacitor to ground (rather than 2µ2 as here). This will give rather more current into the buffer transistor base - that transistor may not be conducting enough to control pin 5 on the 3080.
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Post by plesur »

mictester wrote:R16 (1M) looks much too big to me - the original had 150k with a 10µ for the capacitor to ground (rather than 2µ2 as here). This will give rather more current into the buffer transistor base - that transistor may not be conducting enough to control pin 5 on the 3080.
Although the Dynacomp has 150k, both the Janglebox and the Rickenbacker compressor have 1M at that point.

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Post by ShortScaleMike »

plesur wrote:
plesur wrote: I'll get back to you later with some voltages from my build.
OK, Here we go. Battery reads 9.3V. Readings taken with Sustain and Volume on full, test signal running.

IC:
1 No connection
2 2.3V
3 2.3V
4 0
5 0.6V
6 2.3V
7 9.3V
8 No connection

Transistors (C B E)
Q1: 9.3V 1.4V 2.0V
Q2: 8.8V 2.3V 2.4V
Q3: 1.3V 60mV 0
Q4: 1.3V 60mV 0
Q5: 9.3V 0 1.3V

Without the test signal:
Q1: 9.3V 1.4V 2.0V
Q2: 8.8V 0.8V 0.4V
Q3: 4.5V 0 0
Q4: 4.5V 0 0
Q5: 9.3V 4.5V 8.2V

Hope this helps you get yours up and running.

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Thanks very much, you're a star - and cheers mictester, I'll also have a play with R16 if I have no luck!

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Post by Kazooman »

I completed the build and the Janglebox sounds great. A friend also did a build and asked me about the trim pot. Both of us find that it has no effect. The voltage at pin 3 of the IC remains pretty much constant. In looking at the schematic I am not at all surprised by this.

What am I missing about the trimpot?

Here is the link to the schematic posted by plesur:

https://www.freestompboxes.org/download/ ... p?id=16595

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Post by plesur »

Kazooman wrote: What am I missing about the trimpot?
The trimpot is quite subtle. There is a small sweet spot where you get the best 'thump' at the start of each note. Tweak it until you find the place that sounds the best to you, adjusting it while playing.

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