MAESTRO Filter Sample Hold CLONE problem
Hi Guys, I'm gonna be crazy!! Please help!!
I built a MAESTRO Filter Sample Hold with modern improvements like the layout of GENERAL GUITAR GADJED said.
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_fsh_lo.pdf
Well I did everything like the layout and when I switch on the pedal in true bypass mode it makes an hiss under the guitar and if I switch ON the effect it makes noise.
If I switch on Filter or Sample hold the sound changes but it's noise. Even the pots affect the noise when turned.
In the board the electricity seems to be right: 8volt when it must be 8volt.
I rechecked everything. I may bought some wrong components??
I bought:
Q1: 2N5088
Q2 Q5 Q6: 2N5457
Q3: 2N3906
Q4: 2N3904
Q7: 2N3906
IC: 3080
IC: UA741CN (instead LM741 ST)
MAXIM: MAX 1044
Maybe it's a stupid problem and I cant find it because I'm not a technican.
Sorry for my english. hope someone helps me...
I'll send a picture and a video of the problem soon...
Michele from Italy
I built a MAESTRO Filter Sample Hold with modern improvements like the layout of GENERAL GUITAR GADJED said.
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_fsh_lo.pdf
Well I did everything like the layout and when I switch on the pedal in true bypass mode it makes an hiss under the guitar and if I switch ON the effect it makes noise.
If I switch on Filter or Sample hold the sound changes but it's noise. Even the pots affect the noise when turned.
In the board the electricity seems to be right: 8volt when it must be 8volt.
I rechecked everything. I may bought some wrong components??
I bought:
Q1: 2N5088
Q2 Q5 Q6: 2N5457
Q3: 2N3906
Q4: 2N3904
Q7: 2N3906
IC: 3080
IC: UA741CN (instead LM741 ST)
MAXIM: MAX 1044
Maybe it's a stupid problem and I cant find it because I'm not a technican.
Sorry for my english. hope someone helps me...
I'll send a picture and a video of the problem soon...
Michele from Italy
- idy
- Breadboard Brother
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Give the voltages on the chips and transistors.
Your solder looks "too neat" it doesn't appear to cover the copper pads. One loose joint and no go...
Read the other threads about this circuit/PCB.
Double check the pinout of the transistors and schematic and the board (does the silkscreen tell the truth?)
Your solder looks "too neat" it doesn't appear to cover the copper pads. One loose joint and no go...
Read the other threads about this circuit/PCB.
Double check the pinout of the transistors and schematic and the board (does the silkscreen tell the truth?)
Ok Thanks a lot Idy!
I'll check again everything and I'll post here the voltages of the ICs and Transistors.
The IC 3080 I used is an CA 3080 EV is it correct?
I have soldered even a micro LM741 (for computering I think) with the same bad result. Is the UA741CN correct?
Could someone tell me exactly which transistor I should searching on internet for this circuit?
I think I bought a wrong component because I can here a sort of filter effect in the background but with many noisy….
I'll check again everything and I'll post here the voltages of the ICs and Transistors.
The IC 3080 I used is an CA 3080 EV is it correct?
I have soldered even a micro LM741 (for computering I think) with the same bad result. Is the UA741CN correct?
Could someone tell me exactly which transistor I should searching on internet for this circuit?
I think I bought a wrong component because I can here a sort of filter effect in the background but with many noisy….
- idy
- Breadboard Brother
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- Joined: 14 Dec 2011, 04:41
- Completed builds: FFs, Octavias, TBMKIIIs, Buzzarounds/alikes, Axis Fuzz', CS Overdriver, BMPs, Black '65s, MOSFETODs, WiiO, RAH, Klons, AC30, DLS, TSs and many variants, Small Clones, UniVibes, E. Mistress, Mutron Env Filter, Ross/Dynacomps,, EA Trems, TremLunes, Katana Boosters, BYOC Tri Boosters, other boosters and buffers, PT2399 delays, SKRM based delays, Belton Brick Reverbs, 3band parametric EQ,
- Location: Idyllwild, CA
- Has thanked: 27 times
- Been thanked: 31 times
I think you mean CA3080EZ, that should be OK.
- idy
- Breadboard Brother
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The video doesn't show much. You strum a little, click it on, play with the switches and knobs but don't play anymore. We need to hear it with the F/SH in both positions and the other knobs "up" and "down." And with you playing or some kind of signal.
We're not sure you even have a problem yet.
Have you read about the adjustment of the trimmers? If they are not rightm no filter, no SH.
Lots of others have done this before you. Most of us have had a hard time with this once or twice....
Try reading about the tonepad layout and the madbean "sharkfin." Different layouts, same effect. I think the tonepad was the one with the FET's reversed....
We're not sure you even have a problem yet.
Have you read about the adjustment of the trimmers? If they are not rightm no filter, no SH.
Lots of others have done this before you. Most of us have had a hard time with this once or twice....
Try reading about the tonepad layout and the madbean "sharkfin." Different layouts, same effect. I think the tonepad was the one with the FET's reversed....
Maybe, this project is a new project? because an year ago the project on GGG was different. It was a project exactly like the original (18volt). Maybe nobody have done this new project yet? don't know...I'll check it again but next week I'll have all the component to do the exactly clone of the Maestro pedal (18 volt). I think I'll print and iron an other PCB and I'll do for that one!!
- idy
- Breadboard Brother
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- Posts: 126
- Joined: 14 Dec 2011, 04:41
- Completed builds: FFs, Octavias, TBMKIIIs, Buzzarounds/alikes, Axis Fuzz', CS Overdriver, BMPs, Black '65s, MOSFETODs, WiiO, RAH, Klons, AC30, DLS, TSs and many variants, Small Clones, UniVibes, E. Mistress, Mutron Env Filter, Ross/Dynacomps,, EA Trems, TremLunes, Katana Boosters, BYOC Tri Boosters, other boosters and buffers, PT2399 delays, SKRM based delays, Belton Brick Reverbs, 3band parametric EQ,
- Location: Idyllwild, CA
- Has thanked: 27 times
- Been thanked: 31 times
GGG posted "original" and "modern improvements" versions, latest update may 2015.
Is this your first project?
Why do you think the original would be better?
Is this your first project?
Why do you think the original would be better?
- deltafred
- Opamp Operator
Two things.
1. I think you have etched the PCB "mirror image" (I did exactly the same the first time I etched one). The view that mig81 posted is a "component side view", you have etched your copper side to look like that. The writing on the copper side "FSH" should read the correct way round, not reversed as yours does.
2. I have never seen components soldered like that before. something is wrong with your soldering technique, You need a smooth cone of solder that connects the component leads to the copper. Yours looks to only be soldered to the leads. Try more solder and keep the iron on the joint until you see it flow.
Have look at a few soldering guides, here is one I found http://www.build-electronic-circuits.com/how-to-solder/
1. I think you have etched the PCB "mirror image" (I did exactly the same the first time I etched one). The view that mig81 posted is a "component side view", you have etched your copper side to look like that. The writing on the copper side "FSH" should read the correct way round, not reversed as yours does.
2. I have never seen components soldered like that before. something is wrong with your soldering technique, You need a smooth cone of solder that connects the component leads to the copper. Yours looks to only be soldered to the leads. Try more solder and keep the iron on the joint until you see it flow.
Have look at a few soldering guides, here is one I found http://www.build-electronic-circuits.com/how-to-solder/
Politics is the art of so plucking the goose as to obtain the most feathers with the least squawking. - R.G. 2011
Jeez, she's an ugly bastard, she makes my socks hurt. I hope it's no ones missus here. - Ice-9 2012
Jeez, she's an ugly bastard, she makes my socks hurt. I hope it's no ones missus here. - Ice-9 2012
Hey my solders are well done..I posted a photo of the unsoldered board. I'll post a photo of the solsered board but all the connections are good.believe me! I already built some pedals and 3 tube guitar amps in 10 years. I' m not a technichan anyway.
I think the 18volt should be better because it's the original project...even Mu-tron made an advertisement...i'll post it
thanks guys I'll let you know if i will filter and sample hold something!!
I think the 18volt should be better because it's the original project...even Mu-tron made an advertisement...i'll post it
thanks guys I'll let you know if i will filter and sample hold something!!
- deltafred
- Opamp Operator
Doh - I thought that was your soldered board. No wonder I thought you had a mirror image and strange soldering.mig81 wrote:I flipped the image of the unsoldered board to read it better respect the component side.
Politics is the art of so plucking the goose as to obtain the most feathers with the least squawking. - R.G. 2011
Jeez, she's an ugly bastard, she makes my socks hurt. I hope it's no ones missus here. - Ice-9 2012
Jeez, she's an ugly bastard, she makes my socks hurt. I hope it's no ones missus here. - Ice-9 2012