PCB GuitarMania Odd Caveman kit build Topic is solved
Hi folks,
My first post, so hello.
This will also be my first effects pedal kitbuild.
I am not an engineer, I have basic soldering skills, and I can read a map and follow guides.
First question - does anyone have photos of a completed build, the enclosure and the PCB, please?
Second question - other images I have found for the original pedal (Oddfellows Caveman, version 2), shows 4 pots, a three-position switch, and two footswitches - Bypass and Boost.
The kit includes two footswitches, and the PCB has connection points for both, but the enclosure for this pedal only has one hole drilled for a footswitch, and the drilling template associated with this model matches the enclosure I have received.
What am I missing?
Cheers,
Stuart
My first post, so hello.
This will also be my first effects pedal kitbuild.
I am not an engineer, I have basic soldering skills, and I can read a map and follow guides.
First question - does anyone have photos of a completed build, the enclosure and the PCB, please?
Second question - other images I have found for the original pedal (Oddfellows Caveman, version 2), shows 4 pots, a three-position switch, and two footswitches - Bypass and Boost.
The kit includes two footswitches, and the PCB has connection points for both, but the enclosure for this pedal only has one hole drilled for a footswitch, and the drilling template associated with this model matches the enclosure I have received.
What am I missing?
Cheers,
Stuart
Hi Karul.
Sure, but two of the three links for further information on their page is to this message board.
And the PCB Guitar Mania section here has... absolutely no threads.
I'm trying to avoid joining the FB group at the moment.
There has been some analysis of the original Caveman here, so my hope was that there would be a number of ppl here who've built those kits.
Yes, the enclosure is pre-drilled - it matches this template:
https://pcbguitarmania.com/wp-content/u ... mplate.pdf
There's only one hole for a footswitch, while there are two on the original pedal, and two switches in the kit.
I'm ok with the idea that the cloned circuit only uses one, and the enclosure is correct, but I want to check it.
Two switches in the kit + two on the original = doubt.
https://pcbguitarmania.com/wp-content/u ... mplate.pdf
There's only one hole for a footswitch, while there are two on the original pedal, and two switches in the kit.
I'm ok with the idea that the cloned circuit only uses one, and the enclosure is correct, but I want to check it.
Two switches in the kit + two on the original = doubt.
- karul
- Cap Cooler
Ok, so I have a request into PCB Guitar Mania, but they appear to be busy, so I'll ask here too.
There's something that's a little bit confusing. Attached are two images showing the PCB and the Diodes section of the parts list.
D2 and D3 on the board are listed as 'custom'. The only parts left unidentified in the kit are two small LEDs.
The location on the board means they would not be seen when operating.
Assuming the parts are correctly provided, are there any reasons why LEDs would be chosen over plain diodes here?
There's something that's a little bit confusing. Attached are two images showing the PCB and the Diodes section of the parts list.
D2 and D3 on the board are listed as 'custom'. The only parts left unidentified in the kit are two small LEDs.
The location on the board means they would not be seen when operating.
Assuming the parts are correctly provided, are there any reasons why LEDs would be chosen over plain diodes here?
- modman
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It's kinda handy that they are Light Emitting Diodes if you want to use them as indicators to show whether the effect is on or off?
https://pcbguitarmania.com/wp-content/u ... g-Docs.pdf
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Hi Modman.
Yes, that'll be LED1 and LED2, for sure.
However, those are on the lower edge of the board, mounted on the back (switch/pot side when mounted in the enclosure), and there are holes in the enclosure for them.
D2 and D3 are on the component side of the board, and so would not be seen.
Yes, that'll be LED1 and LED2, for sure.
However, those are on the lower edge of the board, mounted on the back (switch/pot side when mounted in the enclosure), and there are holes in the enclosure for them.
D2 and D3 are on the component side of the board, and so would not be seen.
- modman
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Ok, I get it now: the only components left for D1 and D2 seem to be red LEDs?
Those function as clipping diodes... So the answer why? This is tubescreamer mod #1 in the history of expensive boutique TS9's -- replace the clipping diodes with RED leds... Landgraff Dynamic Overdrive had this mod and many followed... but then again this suggestion will also be found in the earliest internet forums like ampage, no doubt.
So, by al means, son, solder those red leds in and enter the realm of vintage boutique tone
Those function as clipping diodes... So the answer why? This is tubescreamer mod #1 in the history of expensive boutique TS9's -- replace the clipping diodes with RED leds... Landgraff Dynamic Overdrive had this mod and many followed... but then again this suggestion will also be found in the earliest internet forums like ampage, no doubt.
So, by al means, son, solder those red leds in and enter the realm of vintage boutique tone
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- modman
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They are all different diodes, with different characteristics. They even use a mosfet as diode clipper here... but all these differences are very subtle and maybe only noticeable at full gain...
They are nothing to obsess over... just get the box working first.
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Thank you, Modman.
One final question...
It's a single effect pedal with Boost and Bypass footswitches.
Do the switches need to be connected together, or can they be wired totally independently?
PCBGM's wiring guide shows either single effect without Bypass, or Dual Effect with Bypass.
I assume the wiring controls if Boost can be used without the effect?
One final question...
It's a single effect pedal with Boost and Bypass footswitches.
Do the switches need to be connected together, or can they be wired totally independently?
PCBGM's wiring guide shows either single effect without Bypass, or Dual Effect with Bypass.
I assume the wiring controls if Boost can be used without the effect?
- modman
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I think only the wiring for the boost switch is given in the Caveman build doc, because that's specific to this project. Regarding the BYPASS switch you should refer to the wiring guide. I think you should only take into account the first page.TheGimp wrote: ↑31 Jan 2022, 17:32 Thank you, Modman.
One final question...
It's a single effect pedal with Boost and Bypass footswitches.
Do the switches need to be connected together, or can they be wired totally independently?
PCBGM's wiring guide shows either single effect without Bypass, or Dual Effect with Bypass.
I assume the wiring controls if Boost can be used without the effect?
https://pcbguitarmania.com/wp-content/u ... uide-1.pdf
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I have looked already at that document - I see how the EZ-3PDT board is wired in to the FX In/Out side, and how the B1/B2 side is wired without the EZ board.
I think things may be a little clearer now.
The FX In/Out side, this is the BYPASS side.
The B1/B2 side, this is the BOOST (overdrive effect) side.
The BYPASS routes the signal around the effects circuitry, preventing 'tone suck'.
The BOOST turns the pedal's effect on or off.
I think things may be a little clearer now.
The FX In/Out side, this is the BYPASS side.
The B1/B2 side, this is the BOOST (overdrive effect) side.
The BYPASS routes the signal around the effects circuitry, preventing 'tone suck'.
The BOOST turns the pedal's effect on or off.
- modman
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No. It turns the extra boos on. But even when BOOST is OFF, your guitar goes through the overdrive circuitry.
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