Death By Audio - Supersonic Fuzz Gun [traced]
I came across some guts browsing Ebay.
Actually one photo.
https://cgi.ebay.com/Supersonic-Fuzz-Gu ... 2c5bb3a22a
Im still a noob so i can't tell but what parts/values of it do we need to clone?
Transistors? Diodes?
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Actually one photo.
https://cgi.ebay.com/Supersonic-Fuzz-Gu ... 2c5bb3a22a
Im still a noob so i can't tell but what parts/values of it do we need to clone?
Transistors? Diodes?
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- DBA_Supersonic_Fuzz_Gun.jpg (46.06 KiB) Viewed 7312 times
- Hides-His-Eyes
- Tube Twister
Best build quality I've ever seen from them
Testing, testing, won too fwee
- culturejam
- Old Solderhand
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- culturejam
- Old Solderhand
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Quite. They are almost approaching advanced DIY'er quality.Hides-His-Eyes wrote:Best build quality I've ever seen from them
- theehman
- Diode Debunker
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Is the board just floating around loose in there?
Ron Neely II
Electro-Harmonix info: http://electroharmonix.vintageusaguitars.com
Home of RonSound effects: http://www.ronsound.com
fx schematics and repairs
Electro-Harmonix info: http://electroharmonix.vintageusaguitars.com
Home of RonSound effects: http://www.ronsound.com
fx schematics and repairs
- Hides-His-Eyes
- Tube Twister
Do you really need to ask?theehman wrote:Is the board just floating around loose in there?
To be fair there's something that looks suspiciously like a standoff on the far right
Testing, testing, won too fwee
- theehman
- Diode Debunker
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Yep, I think you're right. My error.Hides-His-Eyes wrote:Do you really need to ask?theehman wrote:Is the board just floating around loose in there?
To be fair there's something that looks suspiciously like a standoff on the far right
Ron Neely II
Electro-Harmonix info: http://electroharmonix.vintageusaguitars.com
Home of RonSound effects: http://www.ronsound.com
fx schematics and repairs
Electro-Harmonix info: http://electroharmonix.vintageusaguitars.com
Home of RonSound effects: http://www.ronsound.com
fx schematics and repairs
- RnFR
- Old Solderhand
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this is definitely the best yet, but those elecrolytics are at some seriously jaunty angles. i mean really, how hard is it to get your caps on straight? you just reheat the joint and push them flush. that way they aren't as susceptible to being bent or broken off.
"You've converted me to Cubic thinking. Where do I sign up for the newsletter? I need to learn more about how I can break free from ONEism Death Math." - Soulsonic
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- culturejam
- Old Solderhand
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Even if those jaunty caps did get broken off, would anyone notice a change in tone?
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- my favorite amplifier: Fender Tremolux (piggy back, blackface)
Wow! A PCB! I'm pretty sure mine's built on perf but I haven't opened it in years.
And you didn't even mention the two resistors in between them.RnFR wrote:this is definitely the best yet, but those elecrolytics are at some seriously jaunty angles. i mean really, how hard is it to get your caps on straight? you just reheat the joint and push them flush. that way they aren't as susceptible to being bent or broken off.
Both look like they were falling out while being soldered in.
Hell, I do better than this.
- bootle
- Breadboard Brother
I'd say they're just bent over so they fit under the lid,RnFR wrote:this is definitely the best yet, but those elecrolytics are at some seriously jaunty angles. i mean really, how hard is it to get your caps on straight? you just reheat the joint and push them flush. that way they aren't as susceptible to being bent or broken off.
looks like they're using those tall stand-offs so the board clears the back of the pots.
- RnFR
- Old Solderhand
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if that is true (but, by looking at those resistors, i have my doubts), then they should lie them all of the way down, just use axial caps, or get shorter standoffs. there is no excuse for jauntiness. at least, not in something that is professionally made, bought, and sold.
"You've converted me to Cubic thinking. Where do I sign up for the newsletter? I need to learn more about how I can break free from ONEism Death Math." - Soulsonic
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Sometimes I think that if you guys encountered a talking dog, you would complain about his accent.
- Hides-His-Eyes
- Tube Twister
Here's how I look at that, mate:
If I spent $100 on a pedal I'd expect something that would keep working for many years, probably built by a machine.
If I spend $270 (new street price on one of these), I expect a fucking labour of love; not something LESS nice than a $100 pedal!
The klon used to cost $350, which we used to make fun of, but it has a custom cast enclosure, 24mmm classy-as-hell pots, etc. It's certaintly got more "build value" to me than an EHX pedal would.
Devi ever 1-unit fuzzes are $100. That is good value for a handbuilt fuzz pedal, and the handbuiltness means they can be manufactured in smaller runs, so there are 10 to choose from instead of 1. I would not complain about one jaunty electrolytic in a DE.
It's just a price-quality incompatibility really.
If I spent $100 on a pedal I'd expect something that would keep working for many years, probably built by a machine.
If I spend $270 (new street price on one of these), I expect a fucking labour of love; not something LESS nice than a $100 pedal!
The klon used to cost $350, which we used to make fun of, but it has a custom cast enclosure, 24mmm classy-as-hell pots, etc. It's certaintly got more "build value" to me than an EHX pedal would.
Devi ever 1-unit fuzzes are $100. That is good value for a handbuilt fuzz pedal, and the handbuiltness means they can be manufactured in smaller runs, so there are 10 to choose from instead of 1. I would not complain about one jaunty electrolytic in a DE.
It's just a price-quality incompatibility really.
Testing, testing, won too fwee
It would be great if You'd share with your Hot-Perf-GutsLudfisterSound wrote:Wow! A PCB! I'm pretty sure mine's built on perf but I haven't opened it in years.
- RnFR
- Old Solderhand
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cutoutwitch wrote:
Sometimes I think that if you guys encountered a talking dog, you would complain about his accent.
I also don't think it's asking that much for my 270$ pedal to be put together in a way that shows that you know what you are doing and care about your product. at least have it look like you took the extra 10 seconds to look over the board and do some QC. these things aren't hard, they are pretty damn easy. I've had caps that were soldered on like that break off before- something that could easily have been avoided.Hides-His-Eyes wrote:
If I spend $270 (new street price on one of these), I expect a fucking labour of love; not something LESS nice than a $100 pedal!
for the record, there are lots of pedals out there that I think are built just fine. this was almost one of them.
"You've converted me to Cubic thinking. Where do I sign up for the newsletter? I need to learn more about how I can break free from ONEism Death Math." - Soulsonic
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- bootle
- Breadboard Brother
yeah I agree, wasn't trying to excuse it, just making an observation.RnFR wrote:if that is true (but, by looking at those resistors, i have my doubts), then they should lie them all of the way down, just use axial caps, or get shorter standoffs. there is no excuse for jauntiness. at least, not in something that is professionally made, bought, and sold.
you get the feeling they'd be sticking out all over the shop regardless.
I hate jaunty components too, except for in vintage fuzzes where it helps with teh mojo.
is that a battery clip in there too? no expense spared!
maybe this is part of a limited edition 'deluxe' range.
270 bucks? fook!
in fairness it's better than that Bearfoot Honey Bee pedal.
- Hides-His-Eyes
- Tube Twister
Wait a shitting minute, where's the DC jack?
Testing, testing, won too fwee