The Rotagilla wrote:
Understand and agree about the stress point. Sort of agree about being a time saver plus in the end, the extra PCB's are an added expense.
Yeah the extra PCBs are an expense, but in bulk, they probably save more time and money than they would without, makes it look nice and clean too, just all adds to a smooth assembly I imagine which for someone that may be doing a large quantity of these, is probably going to be very thankful for.
Respectfully disagree on this one. Desoldering small components is one thing, but I've found that desoldering something larger (like a 3PDT) from the thru hole PCB can tear up the pads which could result in a less than clean looking repair. Personally I would have gone with PCB pin style 3PDT's, there's less open space between the pad and point of contact which makes for less solder to be removed should it need to be replaced.
Well the Jacks will have PCB Pins so they're alright but you might be right about the switch, i've never had the issue but I do hear of it, but as I said before in bulk those little PCBs aren't gunna cost much (Smallbear sells 3PDT PCBs for $1 and he has to make a profit) a few extra dollars wont matter if they feel it makes the assembly easier and with the added stress relief, hopefully the parts wont fail anyway.
Also, since we can't really see the underside, there could be a molex connector on each of those boards. Makes replacing a jack a solder free 10 second repair.
Scruffie wrote:It takes stress off the main board from the switch being stomped on, jacks being wiggled in etc. so it's actually kinda a time saver in the end.
Understand and agree about the stress point. Sort of agree about being a time saver plus in the end, the extra PCB's are an added expense.
Scruffie wrote:Plus for repairs you wouldn't really need to replace the PCB, just de-solder and replace the part.
Respectfully disagree on this one. Desoldering small components is one thing, but I've found that desoldering something larger (like a 3PDT) from the thru hole PCB can tear up the pads which could result in a less than clean looking repair. Personally I would have gone with PCB pin style 3PDT's, there's less open space between the pad and point of contact which makes for less solder to be removed should it need to be replaced.
I don't think it's meant like that. Most likely they just remove the switchboard all together and pop in a new one. So no need for special switches.
Scruffie wrote:It takes stress off the main board from the switch being stomped on, jacks being wiggled in etc. so it's actually kinda a time saver in the end.
Understand and agree about the stress point. Sort of agree about being a time saver plus in the end, the extra PCB's are an added expense.
Scruffie wrote:Plus for repairs you wouldn't really need to replace the PCB, just de-solder and replace the part.
Respectfully disagree on this one. Desoldering small components is one thing, but I've found that desoldering something larger (like a 3PDT) from the thru hole PCB can tear up the pads which could result in a less than clean looking repair. Personally I would have gone with PCB pin style 3PDT's, there's less open space between the pad and point of contact which makes for less solder to be removed should it need to be replaced.
I don't think it's meant like that. Most likely they just remove the switchboard all together and pop in a new one. So no need for special switches.
I have a Rockbox Boiling point and it appears to be just a modified TS (like the Landgraff OD or CJOD) though the clipping section has me a bit perplexed. I tried to trace out the clipping section which has a three-way switch: one position is supposed to be symmetrical, one position is no clipping (ie. a boost), and one position is supposed to be asymmetrical. I've included my primitive drawing below since I haven't yet found software that makes it easy to create simple schematics. I'll admit I'm a newbie, though I have some background in electronics: 2 years in an EE program (until I switched to Comp. Sci.), building pedals from Craig Anderton's book as a teenager, and more recently building various pedal kits and doing mods - and I'm now in my late 30s.
If anyone is interested in dissecting the pedal, I could take pictures or ship the pedal for analysis (though I'd want it back). I suspect that a slightly modified BYOC OD2 could be made into a Boiling Point. If you're interested, please let me know.
One direction is 3v1 assymetry, the other is even LEDs; I expect that's probably the only difference between this and any other TS clone except maybe for tonestack values or anything.
I drew this up a while ago based heavily on a popular tube screamer schematic on line and then modified to match the one BP I had if anyone wants to take a look:
LaceSensor wrote:Yeah sorry i didnt think about it like that.
Guess its just frustrating loadsa fuss over generic overdrives and more esoteric effects sit un-DIY-able
I take it back. My grandma died two days ago i am not really thinknig straight.
LaceSensor wrote:Yeah sorry i didnt think about it like that.
Guess its just frustrating loadsa fuss over generic overdrives and more esoteric effects sit un-DIY-able
I take it back. My grandma died two days ago i am not really thinknig straight.
I understand your frustration but esoteric is exactly the operative word. It's no surprise that those things that are not the majority's interest do not demand the majority's attention.