EHX - Deluxe Memory Man (SAD 1024A) EH7550

Post by **GodSaveMetal** » 13 Jun 2011, 03:15

Zokk wrote:I've found my redraw, that was buried so deeply in fact ... do you think I can post it? It's maybe a silly question, but as it is not the original drawing, could it be allowed?

If so I can put everything in a zip file.

PLEASE MAN PUT IT HERE!!!!! many of us are waiting for!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Post by **GodSaveMetal** » 13 Jun 2011, 03:31

A technical question anybody know how to sustitute the MN3005 with MN3007???? some idea for it??? cuz in my way I only found MN3007 at very reasonable prices!! one dollar or less each one!!! YES you supose wrigth THESE are CLONED IC´s fron CHINA or KOREA!!! I´ve made some chorus with them all are wrigt!!! please some idea for make an adaptation????? thanks a lot my friends!!!!!!!! the NE571 will replace the NE570 it´s OK!!!!!; I found it!!! at 3 dollars each!!!! it´s great!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

WhiteKeyHole · Post by **WhiteKeyHole** » 13 Jun 2011, 03:36

Read the post directly preceding yours.

Post by **GodSaveMetal** » 13 Jun 2011, 05:53

WhiteKeyHole wrote:Read the post directly preceding yours.

Would you explain me please in what post I will be found the answer of how to change the MN3005 with MN3007???? thanks a lot man!!!!!!!!!!!

WhiteKeyHole · Post by **WhiteKeyHole** » 13 Jun 2011, 06:29

GodSaveMetal wrote:
Zokk wrote:I've found my redraw, that was buried so deeply in fact ... do you think I can post it? It's maybe a silly question, but as it is not the original drawing, could it be allowed?

If so I can put everything in a zip file.
PLEASE MAN PUT IT HERE!!!!! many of us are waiting for!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Sorry, this was the post I was referring to. The ZIP file is in the post just before that one, don't know if you saw it.

I think it is not such a good idea to try to substitute two MN3005 by eight MN3007. Besides, why use MN3007 clones when you could just adapt the circuit for the Coolaudio V3205?

ssmc · Post by **ssmc** » 13 Jun 2011, 09:01

I think utsource has MN3005 but yes it's a bit pricey

Fender3D · Post by **Fender3D** » 13 Jun 2011, 10:48

GodSaveMetal wrote:
WhiteKeyHole wrote:Read the post directly preceding yours.
Would you explain me please in what post I will be found the answer of how to change the MN3005 with MN3007???? thanks a lot man!!!!!!!!!!!

If you just give a reading at datasheets (this should be done each time you have to deal with "unknown" parts) you'd read that MN3005 is a 4096 stages delay line, while MN3007 is a 1024 stages, hence you'll need 4 MN3007 in series to obtain a 4096 stages delay line.
Surely they'll cost less than 1 MN3005 but I guess your PCB will increase a bit ..

Zokk · Post by **Zokk** » 13 Jun 2011, 12:10

Fender3D wrote: If you just give a reading at datasheets (this should be done each time you have to deal with "unknown" parts) you'd read that MN3005 is a 4096 stages delay line, while MN3007 is a 1024 stages, hence you'll need 4 MN3007 in series to obtain a 4096 stages delay line.
Surely they'll cost less than 1 MN3005 but I guess your PCB will increase a bit ..

Also there may be necessary to add the same TL072 buffer between each BBD like on the original DMM...

Dirk_Hendrik · Post by **Dirk_Hendrik** » 13 Jun 2011, 14:13

Zokk wrote:The "Memory Monkey" all in one (please be indulgent as this was my first work on Kicad... and there may be some errors too); so again this NOT VERIFIED.

Without rereading the whole thread,
Is this layout based on the layout of the first DMM reissue? It seems like it since that reissue had the same problem as this layout. Way too small solderpads for a single sided PCB. What's left of the pad after drilling will come off during soldering. It's one of the most common problems I see with reissue DMM's.

Solution?
Increase the pad size.

no flame intended btw

Post by **GodSaveMetal** » 13 Jun 2011, 16:27

Fender3D wrote:
GodSaveMetal wrote:
WhiteKeyHole wrote:Read the post directly preceding yours.
Would you explain me please in what post I will be found the answer of how to change the MN3005 with MN3007???? thanks a lot man!!!!!!!!!!!
If you just give a reading at datasheets (this should be done each time you have to deal with "unknown" parts) you'd read that MN3005 is a 4096 stages delay line, while MN3007 is a 1024 stages, hence you'll need 4 MN3007 in series to obtain a 4096 stages delay line.
Surely they'll cost less than 1 MN3005 but I guess your PCB will increase a bit ..

Yes I´ve read the data but no idea to do what you means!!! yeah I know also that my circuit will increase a bit.....!!! but no problem I made my metal boxes for this.... please please man give some idea; you have a PCB or a circuit for improve this???? thanks for answer me thanks to all of you!!!!! your amazing man!!!!

my idea is to make an aditional PCB an put it to replace the MN3005 in the pre existing PCB!!! OK!!!!! THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!

Dirk_Hendrik · Post by **Dirk_Hendrik** » 13 Jun 2011, 16:38

In order to do this you will need 6 more bias trimpots, 6 more output balance trimpots and preferably 6 opamp make up gain stages. The DMM schem contains all information needed to adapt from 2 MN3005's to 8 MN3007's.

Going for 4 MN3008's would be a better option, adapting to V3205 far better.

And all these solutions will add a shitload of noise and a world of pain getting it calibrated. Reconsider before making this cost-only- driven decision.

Post by **GodSaveMetal** » 13 Jun 2011, 19:39

Dirk_Hendrik wrote:In order to do this you will need 6 more bias trimpots, 6 more output balance trimpots and preferably 6 opamp make up gain stages. The DMM schem contains all information needed to adapt from 2 MN3005's to 8 MN3007's.

Going for 4 MN3008's would be a better option, adapting to V3205 far better.

And all these solutions will add a shitload of noise and a world of pain getting it calibrated. Reconsider before making this cost-only- driven decision.

Yes Mr DIRK where I found that schems??? would you please make or link to me!!! cuz It is imposible to find in PERÚ!!! and import the MN3005 or the MN3008 it would be very expensive!!!! in order to make that replace I know It will be hard work that I have to made!!! please tell me were I found those schemes??? THANKS Mr Dirk!!!!!!

ssmc · Post by **ssmc** » 13 Jun 2011, 20:14

Is 20 or 25$ plus 8$ postage too much for one MN3005?

Zokk · Post by **Zokk** » 13 Jun 2011, 20:14

Dirk_Hendrik wrote:Without rereading the whole thread,
Is this layout based on the layout of the first DMM reissue? It seems like it since that reissue had the same problem as this layout. Way too small solderpads for a single sided PCB. What's left of the pad after drilling will come off during soldering. It's one of the most common problems I see with reissue DMM's.

Solution?
Increase the pad size.

no flame intended btw

Hi Dirk, err... no it is based on the "factory schematic" mainly... and a bit inpired by the pcb from Kaputepalla, but as it is strangely angled I've decided to simplify and fatten the tracks. I don't know if it's the reissue or not in fact. I've just focused on the schematic.
However I have already etched, put copper on the tracks, and drilled a pcb (at that time I was dreaming of a bunch of MN3005

)... and I assure you that with a 0,8mm drilling you can still solder with no problem.

Zokk · Post by **Zokk** » 13 Jun 2011, 20:33

ssmc wrote:Is 20 or 25$ plus 8$ postage too much for one MN3005?

That's a "fair" price for today I believe. But as it was discussed on many forums, beware of the fakes. For example Utsource is cool because you'll have a 60 days garantee, so you'll have enough time to test it in your circuit.

Dirk_Hendrik · Post by **Dirk_Hendrik** » 13 Jun 2011, 20:51

GodSaveMetal wrote:Yes Mr DIRK where I found that schems??? would you please make or link to me!!! cuz It is imposible to find in PERÚ!!!

The DMM schematics can be found in a zipfile a few posts above this one. The www is not limited to a country

See how the first 3005 is connected to the second (through an opamp)
that's the stuff you'll need to duplicate 7 times for use of 3007's

and please stop all the exclamation marks (that is the ! sign). Without it more people are willing to help

ssmc · Post by **ssmc** » 13 Jun 2011, 22:04

Zokk wrote:
ssmc wrote:Is 20 or 25$ plus 8$ postage too much for one MN3005?
That's a "fair" price for today I believe. But as it was discussed on many forums, beware of the fakes. For example Utsource is cool because you'll have a 60 days garantee, so you'll have enough time to test it in your circuit.

Well I couldn't find it any cheaper to be honest, and yes utsource is cool because of that guarantee.

phil esposito · Post by **phil esposito** » 17 Feb 2012, 17:27

I'm bringing this one back from the dead. I have a DMM that I've made TB and put a TL072 in the U1 spot. When I hit it with a fuzz it gets thin, treble-y and not fun.

I know there's a gain reduction mod and an impedance mod. Will these help with this?

Dirk_Hendrik · Post by **Dirk_Hendrik** » 17 Feb 2012, 18:19

phil esposito wrote:I'm bringing this one back from the dead. I have a DMM that I've made TB and put a TL072 in the U1 spot. When I hit it with a fuzz it gets thin, treble-y and not fun.

I know there's a gain reduction mod and an impedance mod. Will these help with this?

A TL072 should work fine in that position. Does it work well without the fuzz?

phil esposito · Post by **phil esposito** » 17 Feb 2012, 21:38

Dirk_Hendrik wrote:
phil esposito wrote:I'm bringing this one back from the dead. I have a DMM that I've made TB and put a TL072 in the U1 spot. When I hit it with a fuzz it gets thin, treble-y and not fun.

I know there's a gain reduction mod and an impedance mod. Will these help with this?
A TL072 should work fine in that position. Does it work well without the fuzz?

It does...the fuzz loses all it's 'beefiness' when I engage the DMM.

EHX - Deluxe Memory Man (SAD 1024A) EH7550 [schematic]