PLEASE MAN PUT IT HERE!!!!! many of us are waiting for!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Zokk wrote:I've found my redraw, that was buried so deeply in fact ... do you think I can post it? It's maybe a silly question, but as it is not the original drawing, could it be allowed?
If so I can put everything in a zip file.
EHX - Deluxe Memory Man (SAD 1024A) EH7550 [schematic]
- GodSaveMetal
- Resistor Ronker
- GodSaveMetal
- Resistor Ronker
A technical question anybody know how to sustitute the MN3005 with MN3007???? some idea for it??? cuz in my way I only found MN3007 at very reasonable prices!! one dollar or less each one!!! YES you supose wrigth THESE are CLONED IC´s fron CHINA or KOREA!!! I´ve made some chorus with them all are wrigt!!! please some idea for make an adaptation????? thanks a lot my friends!!!!!!!! the NE571 will replace the NE570 it´s OK!!!!!; I found it!!! at 3 dollars each!!!! it´s great!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
- WhiteKeyHole
- Cap Cooler
Read the post directly preceding yours.
- GodSaveMetal
- Resistor Ronker
Would you explain me please in what post I will be found the answer of how to change the MN3005 with MN3007???? thanks a lot man!!!!!!!!!!!WhiteKeyHole wrote:Read the post directly preceding yours.
- WhiteKeyHole
- Cap Cooler
Sorry, this was the post I was referring to. The ZIP file is in the post just before that one, don't know if you saw it.GodSaveMetal wrote:PLEASE MAN PUT IT HERE!!!!! many of us are waiting for!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Zokk wrote:I've found my redraw, that was buried so deeply in fact ... do you think I can post it? It's maybe a silly question, but as it is not the original drawing, could it be allowed?
If so I can put everything in a zip file.
I think it is not such a good idea to try to substitute two MN3005 by eight MN3007. Besides, why use MN3007 clones when you could just adapt the circuit for the Coolaudio V3205?
- Fender3D
- Cap Cooler
If you just give a reading at datasheets (this should be done each time you have to deal with "unknown" parts) you'd read that MN3005 is a 4096 stages delay line, while MN3007 is a 1024 stages, hence you'll need 4 MN3007 in series to obtain a 4096 stages delay line.GodSaveMetal wrote:Would you explain me please in what post I will be found the answer of how to change the MN3005 with MN3007???? thanks a lot man!!!!!!!!!!!WhiteKeyHole wrote:Read the post directly preceding yours.
Surely they'll cost less than 1 MN3005 but I guess your PCB will increase a bit ..
- Zokk
- Resistor Ronker
Also there may be necessary to add the same TL072 buffer between each BBD like on the original DMM...Fender3D wrote: If you just give a reading at datasheets (this should be done each time you have to deal with "unknown" parts) you'd read that MN3005 is a 4096 stages delay line, while MN3007 is a 1024 stages, hence you'll need 4 MN3007 in series to obtain a 4096 stages delay line.
Surely they'll cost less than 1 MN3005 but I guess your PCB will increase a bit ..
- Dirk_Hendrik
- Old Solderhand
Information
Zokk wrote:The "Memory Monkey" all in one (please be indulgent as this was my first work on Kicad... and there may be some errors too); so again this NOT VERIFIED.
Without rereading the whole thread,
Is this layout based on the layout of the first DMM reissue? It seems like it since that reissue had the same problem as this layout. Way too small solderpads for a single sided PCB. What's left of the pad after drilling will come off during soldering. It's one of the most common problems I see with reissue DMM's.
Solution?
Increase the pad size.
no flame intended btw
- GodSaveMetal
- Resistor Ronker
Yes I´ve read the data but no idea to do what you means!!! yeah I know also that my circuit will increase a bit.....!!! but no problem I made my metal boxes for this.... please please man give some idea; you have a PCB or a circuit for improve this???? thanks for answer me thanks to all of you!!!!! your amazing man!!!! my idea is to make an aditional PCB an put it to replace the MN3005 in the pre existing PCB!!! OK!!!!! THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!Fender3D wrote:If you just give a reading at datasheets (this should be done each time you have to deal with "unknown" parts) you'd read that MN3005 is a 4096 stages delay line, while MN3007 is a 1024 stages, hence you'll need 4 MN3007 in series to obtain a 4096 stages delay line.GodSaveMetal wrote:Would you explain me please in what post I will be found the answer of how to change the MN3005 with MN3007???? thanks a lot man!!!!!!!!!!!WhiteKeyHole wrote:Read the post directly preceding yours.
Surely they'll cost less than 1 MN3005 but I guess your PCB will increase a bit ..
- Dirk_Hendrik
- Old Solderhand
Information
In order to do this you will need 6 more bias trimpots, 6 more output balance trimpots and preferably 6 opamp make up gain stages. The DMM schem contains all information needed to adapt from 2 MN3005's to 8 MN3007's.
Going for 4 MN3008's would be a better option, adapting to V3205 far better.
And all these solutions will add a shitload of noise and a world of pain getting it calibrated. Reconsider before making this cost-only- driven decision.
Going for 4 MN3008's would be a better option, adapting to V3205 far better.
And all these solutions will add a shitload of noise and a world of pain getting it calibrated. Reconsider before making this cost-only- driven decision.
- GodSaveMetal
- Resistor Ronker
Yes Mr DIRK where I found that schems??? would you please make or link to me!!! cuz It is imposible to find in PERÚ!!! and import the MN3005 or the MN3008 it would be very expensive!!!! in order to make that replace I know It will be hard work that I have to made!!! please tell me were I found those schemes??? THANKS Mr Dirk!!!!!!Dirk_Hendrik wrote:In order to do this you will need 6 more bias trimpots, 6 more output balance trimpots and preferably 6 opamp make up gain stages. The DMM schem contains all information needed to adapt from 2 MN3005's to 8 MN3007's.
Going for 4 MN3008's would be a better option, adapting to V3205 far better.
And all these solutions will add a shitload of noise and a world of pain getting it calibrated. Reconsider before making this cost-only- driven decision.
- Zokk
- Resistor Ronker
Hi Dirk, err... no it is based on the "factory schematic" mainly... and a bit inpired by the pcb from Kaputepalla, but as it is strangely angled I've decided to simplify and fatten the tracks. I don't know if it's the reissue or not in fact. I've just focused on the schematic.Dirk_Hendrik wrote:Without rereading the whole thread,
Is this layout based on the layout of the first DMM reissue? It seems like it since that reissue had the same problem as this layout. Way too small solderpads for a single sided PCB. What's left of the pad after drilling will come off during soldering. It's one of the most common problems I see with reissue DMM's.
Solution?
Increase the pad size.
no flame intended btw
However I have already etched, put copper on the tracks, and drilled a pcb (at that time I was dreaming of a bunch of MN3005 )... and I assure you that with a 0,8mm drilling you can still solder with no problem.
- Zokk
- Resistor Ronker
That's a "fair" price for today I believe. But as it was discussed on many forums, beware of the fakes. For example Utsource is cool because you'll have a 60 days garantee, so you'll have enough time to test it in your circuit.ssmc wrote:Is 20 or 25$ plus 8$ postage too much for one MN3005?
- Dirk_Hendrik
- Old Solderhand
Information
The DMM schematics can be found in a zipfile a few posts above this one. The www is not limited to a countryGodSaveMetal wrote:Yes Mr DIRK where I found that schems??? would you please make or link to me!!! cuz It is imposible to find in PERÚ!!!
See how the first 3005 is connected to the second (through an opamp)
that's the stuff you'll need to duplicate 7 times for use of 3007's
and please stop all the exclamation marks (that is the ! sign). Without it more people are willing to help
Well I couldn't find it any cheaper to be honest, and yes utsource is cool because of that guarantee.Zokk wrote:That's a "fair" price for today I believe. But as it was discussed on many forums, beware of the fakes. For example Utsource is cool because you'll have a 60 days garantee, so you'll have enough time to test it in your circuit.ssmc wrote:Is 20 or 25$ plus 8$ postage too much for one MN3005?
I'm bringing this one back from the dead. I have a DMM that I've made TB and put a TL072 in the U1 spot. When I hit it with a fuzz it gets thin, treble-y and not fun.
I know there's a gain reduction mod and an impedance mod. Will these help with this?
I know there's a gain reduction mod and an impedance mod. Will these help with this?
- Dirk_Hendrik
- Old Solderhand
Information
A TL072 should work fine in that position. Does it work well without the fuzz?phil esposito wrote:I'm bringing this one back from the dead. I have a DMM that I've made TB and put a TL072 in the U1 spot. When I hit it with a fuzz it gets thin, treble-y and not fun.
I know there's a gain reduction mod and an impedance mod. Will these help with this?
It does...the fuzz loses all it's 'beefiness' when I engage the DMM.Dirk_Hendrik wrote:A TL072 should work fine in that position. Does it work well without the fuzz?phil esposito wrote:I'm bringing this one back from the dead. I have a DMM that I've made TB and put a TL072 in the U1 spot. When I hit it with a fuzz it gets thin, treble-y and not fun.
I know there's a gain reduction mod and an impedance mod. Will these help with this?