Maestro - FZ-1S Fuzz-Tone
- analogguru
- Old Solderhand
Information
Maestro FZ-1S guts:
http://i1.ebayimg.com/07/i/000/db/2f/7de4_1.JPG
http://i5.ebayimg.com/04/i/000/db/2f/80ae_1.JPG
analogguru
http://i1.ebayimg.com/07/i/000/db/2f/7de4_1.JPG
http://i5.ebayimg.com/04/i/000/db/2f/80ae_1.JPG
analogguru
Last edited by modman on 27 Jul 2012, 15:45, edited 3 times in total.
Reason: Added pics in attachment
Reason: Added pics in attachment
There´s a sucker born every minute - and too many of them end up in the bootweak pedal biz.
- analogguru
- Old Solderhand
Information
Very interesting:
The factory schematic I have states for Q1 = 2N 3391 and Q2 = 2N 3392.
Your schematic says for Q1 = BC 109C and for Q2 = 8393.
Inside your unit are for Q1 = 2N 5088 and for Q2 = 2N 5133.
For Q2 the transistors need only to be any junk, cause they are used as diodes.
So you can replace them with any transistor and sell the 2N 5133 for big money to a Big-Muff-addict.
BTW, whats up with the german warsteiner beer which can be seen in the third picture ?
analogguru
The factory schematic I have states for Q1 = 2N 3391 and Q2 = 2N 3392.
Your schematic says for Q1 = BC 109C and for Q2 = 8393.
Inside your unit are for Q1 = 2N 5088 and for Q2 = 2N 5133.
For Q2 the transistors need only to be any junk, cause they are used as diodes.
So you can replace them with any transistor and sell the 2N 5133 for big money to a Big-Muff-addict.
BTW, whats up with the german warsteiner beer which can be seen in the third picture ?
analogguru
There´s a sucker born every minute - and too many of them end up in the bootweak pedal biz.
Yeah, I have a couple Maestros that have different schematics vs the actual guts. I've got two FZ-1B's which neither match the case schematic.analogguru wrote:Very interesting:
The factory schematic I have states for Q1 = 2N 3391 and Q2 = 2N 3392.
Your schematic says for Q1 = BC 109C and for Q2 = 8393.
Inside your unit are for Q1 = 2N 5088 and for Q2 = 2N 5133.
So I'm assuming from my limited understanding of circuits that the two pairs of trannies are per fuzz channel, right. FZ-1B had three, so why the step backwards on this circuit? I haven't played through this thing in a minute, but I don't remember it being an especially powerful fuzz, my working FZ-1B is much stronger. Did Oberhiem design the FZ-1B as well?
Hah! I know a couple Muff Addicts, I've only got like 5 of them myself, hardly a collection.analogguru wrote:For Q2 the transistors need only to be any junk, cause they are used as diodes.
So you can replace them with any transistor and sell the 2N 5133 for big money to a Big-Muff-addict.
That particular one? I drank it at least 9 months ago. Many others have come after it.analogguru wrote:BTW, whats up with the german warsteiner beer which can be seen in the third picture ?
- analogguru
- Old Solderhand
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wrong... there is only one Fuzz-channel with a tone-switch like on an Ibanez Standard Fuzz, Fender Blender or similar units.Sickle wrote: So I'm assuming from my limited understanding of circuits that the two pairs of trannies are per fuzz channel, right.
The circuit topology could be best understood as an Mxr-Distortion+ with a tone switch and a blend-control like on a Klon Centaur or Maxon OD-820.
Circuit description of the FZ-1S:
The upper left transistor is only an input buffer without any gain.
Then the signal is split and in the upper row the vlean signal feeded to a mixer/amplifier stage via one half of the balance pot.
The second path goes to the lower row. after the sustain potentiometer we havew a 2-stage high gain amplifier (like in an Mxr Distortion+ or Proco Rat).
The output of this amplifier is applied to a diode-clipper formed by the two transistors marked as Q2.
The Fuzz switch only selects between filtered and unfiltered nothing more - it´s a tone selector.
With the second half of the balance pot you control the volume of the distorted signal. Since this is a stereo-poti which works in opposite to the other half in the upper row when you move this poti to the left, more clean (and less distorted) signal is send to the mixer-amplifier and when you move to the right, less clean signal and more distorted signal is send to the mixer-amplifier.
The mixer-amplifier at the right upper row is there to compensate the signal loss of the balance-control.
It´s a complete different approach for a distorted signal. As I said, more like a Distortion+ with blend control.FZ-1B had three, so why the step backwards on this circuit? I haven't played through this thing in a minute, but I don't remember it being an especially powerful fuzz, my working FZ-1B is much stronger.
I highly doubt that Oberheim designed either the FZ-1B or the FZ-1S.Did Oberheim design the FZ-1B as well?
Oberhaim stuff always used epoxy-pcb and different resistors.
Maybe it was made by ATD (All-Test Devices Corp.) who built at least the Boomerang, the Octave Box and the Signal Isolators.
"Georgia on my mind".....you really need german beer ? Don´t they have drinkable beer in "sweet home alabama" ?That particular one? I drank it at least 9 months ago. Many others have come after it.analogguru wrote:BTW, whats up with the german warsteiner beer which can be seen in the third picture ?
analogguru
There´s a sucker born every minute - and too many of them end up in the bootweak pedal biz.
Cheers for that detailed explanation, it was a big help. I've had a slow, choppy progression learning hardware circuits. I think at least a part of the problem is I've used Reaktor for the last 5 years and I 'think' my circuits in Reaktor, so looking at a circuit I frequently find myself easily lost, which has been really frustrating. I'd really like to understand what's going on in hardware circuits on a much deeper level, but its taking me a lot longer than I thought it would. I'd like to be able to look at something and say, 'ok, this resistor is affecting the tone this way, that cap is doing this over here, etc'.analogguru wrote:Circuit description of the FZ-1S:Sickle wrote:So I'm assuming from my limited understanding of circuits that the two pairs of trannies are per fuzz channel, right.
Slow going so far, but time works against me a lot.
analogguru wrote:you really need german beer ? Don´t they have drinkable beer in "sweet home alabama" ?
I sold one of these a few years ago....found it at a rummage sale for $5...couldn't find a decent sound in it.... got $180 for it......
8^)
ps I'm not hating exactly.....i'm just not a fuzz type of guy....having 0 experience with fuzzes made me wonder if it was just me or if that particular fuzz just ain't much good.....
8^)
ps I'm not hating exactly.....i'm just not a fuzz type of guy....having 0 experience with fuzzes made me wonder if it was just me or if that particular fuzz just ain't much good.....
- marshmellow
- Cap Cooler
Couldn't find a decent sound in it? Maybe you should have tried this one instead.wader2k wrote:I sold one of these a few years ago....found it at a rummage sale for $5...couldn't find a decent sound in it.... got $180 for it......
I figured on catching flack for that......but really it was just too gated and finicky.... not my thing......marshmellow wrote:Couldn't find a decent sound in it? Maybe you should have tried this one instead.wader2k wrote:I sold one of these a few years ago....found it at a rummage sale for $5...couldn't find a decent sound in it.... got $180 for it......
- Hides-His-Eyes
- Tube Twister
Can anyone see anything in that schematic that would lead to me getting only 1.4k across one half of the balance pot or does it sound like something's dodgy?
Testing, testing, won too fwee
- RnFR
- Old Solderhand
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Not really following you. The balance pot is a 30k dual. You are reading 1.4k where?Hides-His-Eyes wrote:Can anyone see anything in that schematic that would lead to me getting only 1.4k across one half of the balance pot or does it sound like something's dodgy?
"You've converted me to Cubic thinking. Where do I sign up for the newsletter? I need to learn more about how I can break free from ONEism Death Math." - Soulsonic
Blog-APOCALYPSE AUDIO
Blog-APOCALYPSE AUDIO
- Hides-His-Eyes
- Tube Twister
Reading 1.4k across the "dry" half of my balance pot and wondering if I've fried it. (as in 1.4k between lugs 1 and 3)
Testing, testing, won too fwee
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- Joined: 29 May 2011, 12:54
hey y'all
i have a few questions about these schematics.
i read somewhere that the factory schematics had mistakes in them, like for the BB-1 brassmaster. are these correct?
and since 2N5133 are just used as clipping diodes, can they be replaced by any silicon transistor or do they have a specific Vce that can't be matched with any other silicon transistor? will 2N5088/9s do the trick?
thanks
i have a few questions about these schematics.
i read somewhere that the factory schematics had mistakes in them, like for the BB-1 brassmaster. are these correct?
and since 2N5133 are just used as clipping diodes, can they be replaced by any silicon transistor or do they have a specific Vce that can't be matched with any other silicon transistor? will 2N5088/9s do the trick?
thanks
- DrNomis
- Old Solderhand
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Frances Rhodes wrote:hey y'all
i have a few questions about these schematics.
i read somewhere that the factory schematics had mistakes in them, like for the BB-1 brassmaster. are these correct?
and since 2N5133 are just used as clipping diodes, can they be replaced by any silicon transistor or do they have a specific Vce that can't be matched with any other silicon transistor? will 2N5088/9s do the trick?
thanks
It shouldn't make any difference so you can replace them with any silicon transistor and it should work fine....
Genius is not all about 99% perspiration, and 1% inspiration - sometimes the solution is staring you right in the face.-Frequencycentral.
- DrNomis
- Old Solderhand
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- Posts: 6807
- Joined: 16 Jul 2009, 04:56
- my favorite amplifier: Self-Built Valve Amp Head :)
- Completed builds: Dallas Arbiter Fuzz Face,Tone Bender Professional Mk 3,Tone Bender 3-Knob,Baja BK Butler Tube Driver,Baja Real Tube Overdrive,Roger Mayer Octavia,EH Soul Preacher,Tech 21 XXL Distortion,MFOS Weird Sound Generator.
- Location: Darwin,Northern Territory Australia
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Yazoo55 wrote:I am going to build a clone and use BC109Cs. What gain would you recommend please?
BC109C transistors typically have an Hfe (gain) of about 480 so they should have plenty of gain, you could even use BC549C transistors which are basically the plastic encapsulation equivalent of the BC109C, but they are low-noise types, they have Hfes (gain) as high as 860....
Genius is not all about 99% perspiration, and 1% inspiration - sometimes the solution is staring you right in the face.-Frequencycentral.
- beedotman
- Diode Debunker
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Long time no see fuzz freaks
Here is FZ1S trace based on vintage unit owned by Arcane Analog (big thanks men!).
PCB trace to follow.
Here is FZ1S trace based on vintage unit owned by Arcane Analog (big thanks men!).
PCB trace to follow.
http://www.turretboard.org 4 life!
- beedotman
- Diode Debunker
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- beedotman
- Diode Debunker
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- Joined: 19 Sep 2011, 15:46
How would one go about increasing output volume? With the fuzz and volume at full on the originals there is barely unity gain.