Fulltone - OCD [traced]
- telecaster
- Resistor Ronker
I find that the more i turn up the gain, the more compressed it gets. I keep the gain around 1 to 2 o clock, sounds more open that way.
KindaFuzzy - Looks like a blue nail polish and nutella sandwich.
Freekish - "Our originality is in the basement. Our business is in the toilet"
Guitarlcarl - I did take offence at being called an idiot by a moron.
Freekish - "Our originality is in the basement. Our business is in the toilet"
Guitarlcarl - I did take offence at being called an idiot by a moron.
- Barcode
- Diode Debunker
Guessing that is most of your problem...Seiche wrote:maybe i should add that i play an epiphone casino with p-90s and they have a lot of output.
try tweaking R2 to a higher value, that will reduce the signal going into the opamp and maybe smooth out your issues. Then if you find a value you like you can put it on a switch and have a single-coil/humbucker switch.
- Seiche
- Old Solderhand
yeah thats what i use max, but the sizzle already annoys me when i turn the gain down to 0telecaster wrote:I find that the more i turn up the gain, the more compressed it gets. I keep the gain around 1 to 2 o clock, sounds more open that way.
thanks! i will give it a shot, maybe i should also try experimenting with diodes with higher forward voltages also, leds for example, instead of the mosfets to get more headroom? the maximum gain is much too much for me also, i prefer stacking lower gain ODs for more distortion.Barcode wrote:try tweaking R2 to a higher value, that will reduce the signal going into the opamp and maybe smooth out your issues. Then if you find a value you like you can put it on a switch and have a single-coil/humbucker switch.
but they sound so great usually!Barcode wrote:Guessing that is most of your problem...
- Barcode
- Diode Debunker
Let us know how it turns out!Seiche wrote:yeah thats what i use max, but the sizzle already annoys me when i turn the gain down to 0telecaster wrote:I find that the more i turn up the gain, the more compressed it gets. I keep the gain around 1 to 2 o clock, sounds more open that way.
thanks! i will give it a shot, maybe i should also try experimenting with diodes with higher forward voltages also, leds for example, instead of the mosfets to get more headroom? the maximum gain is much too much for me also, i prefer stacking lower gain ODs for more distortion.Barcode wrote:try tweaking R2 to a higher value, that will reduce the signal going into the opamp and maybe smooth out your issues. Then if you find a value you like you can put it on a switch and have a single-coil/humbucker switch.
but they sound so great usually!Barcode wrote:Guessing that is most of your problem...
- Seiche
- Old Solderhand
hmm, i substituted a 10k resistor for R2 (i socketed it), not much of a change except maybe in perceived volume, but i'm starting to think there is really something wrong with my build. the fizzy decay is always present, it's exactly the same in duration (3-4sec) no matter where i set the gain (the gain goes up, but the fizzyness remains the same, it's hard to explain). It's there if i change the clipping diodes for leds, etc, or take them out completely. And no matter what i substitute for R2 (2k2, 5k, 10k).
the ic voltages on my unit are as follows (why haven't i checked them earlier ):
1. 7.31
2. 7.31
3. 6.99
4. 0
5. 7.31
6. 7.31
7. 7.31
8. 8.91
they seem weird don't they?
the ic voltages on my unit are as follows (why haven't i checked them earlier ):
1. 7.31
2. 7.31
3. 6.99
4. 0
5. 7.31
6. 7.31
7. 7.31
8. 8.91
they seem weird don't they?
- geiristudio
- Breadboard Brother
Will this layout be able to run on 18v properly ?
- hbo
- Breadboard Brother
Information
If you use caps rated for 25v or more you should be fine.geiristudio wrote: Will this layout be able to run on 18v properly ?
- geiristudio
- Breadboard Brother
Okay, thanks!
- geiristudio
- Breadboard Brother
Hey one idea. I really like the low gain setting or the LP setting so I was wondering what to do to hardwire it at that setting and loose the switch ? I use the vero layout posted above.
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!
- geiristudio
- Breadboard Brother
Thanks man! I really appreciate it!bubstance wrote:You can just remove R12, swap R10 for anything around 13.2K and not bother with the switch.
- ebuprofen
- Breadboard Brother
Information
- Posts: 133
- Joined: 03 Nov 2009, 06:51
- Completed builds: http://ebupro.blogspot.com/
- Location: Estonia
- Has thanked: 12 times
- Been thanked: 12 times
build another OCD (like 5th or 6th ) and this one is oscillating have absolutely no idea what is wrong.
used the same pcb with every OCD I build, only in this one used 220p cap made by Wima, not SilverMica, the whole difference.
when GAIN is min, no oscillation, when raised a bit and to the end it start to squeal with high pitch.
replaced the GAIN pot, no difference, what could be worng?
used the same pcb with every OCD I build, only in this one used 220p cap made by Wima, not SilverMica, the whole difference.
when GAIN is min, no oscillation, when raised a bit and to the end it start to squeal with high pitch.
replaced the GAIN pot, no difference, what could be worng?
- Seiche
- Old Solderhand
real pcb or vero? maybe the cap is not a 220p, but 220n? wima sometimes only writes numbers on them.ebuprofen wrote:build another OCD (like 5th or 6th ) and this one is oscillating have absolutely no idea what is wrong.
used the same pcb with every OCD I build, only in this one used 220p cap made by Wima, not SilverMica, the whole difference.
when GAIN is min, no oscillation, when raised a bit and to the end it start to squeal with high pitch.
replaced the GAIN pot, no difference, what could be worng?
- ebuprofen
- Breadboard Brother
Information
- Posts: 133
- Joined: 03 Nov 2009, 06:51
- Completed builds: http://ebupro.blogspot.com/
- Location: Estonia
- Has thanked: 12 times
- Been thanked: 12 times
- Seiche
- Old Solderhand
i have never seen a wima with anything below 1000pf=1nF. I'd try a different cap for that one. even if its a ceramic.ebuprofen wrote:real pcb, my own layout, 220/630 5mm pitch, so I guess it is 220p
edit: obviously I'm wrong
are you sure all the other caps are the right value? all the legs are soldered to the pads?
- ebuprofen
- Breadboard Brother
Information
- Posts: 133
- Joined: 03 Nov 2009, 06:51
- Completed builds: http://ebupro.blogspot.com/
- Location: Estonia
- Has thanked: 12 times
- Been thanked: 12 times
the soldering looks ok to me, haven't noticed any shorts too, will try different caps for 220p today at evening, but in as I remember i already done one clone with Wima caps and it was ok.
- Seiche
- Old Solderhand
i had that squealing oscillation once with my Klone, turned out to be a micro trace between strips on the veroboard. stranded wires are also notorious to split and then one of the tiny wires just shorts something.
- ebuprofen
- Breadboard Brother
Information
- Posts: 133
- Joined: 03 Nov 2009, 06:51
- Completed builds: http://ebupro.blogspot.com/
- Location: Estonia
- Has thanked: 12 times
- Been thanked: 12 times
cleaned the pcb, checked very carefully, no difference.
but, when unsolder the 68n cap, the squeal dissapears, also, the squeal only presence when guitar is not attached to the pedal, so it is working ok, when connected as it should, but if guitar is unplugged from the pedal and the pedal is connected to the amp and engaged, then it starts to squeal.
but, when unsolder the 68n cap, the squeal dissapears, also, the squeal only presence when guitar is not attached to the pedal, so it is working ok, when connected as it should, but if guitar is unplugged from the pedal and the pedal is connected to the amp and engaged, then it starts to squeal.
- geiristudio
- Breadboard Brother
I'm making a modified version of this, without the switch (as in, hardwired in low-gain mode) and some tonal difference.
Anyways, I also want to make it even more "low-gain" so I was wondering because it's a dual opamp, do I need to lower the value of the 1M pot (Drive) which is in the first feedback loop, or the 150k in the second feedback loop, or both ?
If I'd go from, let's say, 150k (in the second feedback loop) to 68k (the closest I have in stock to being half the value), would it make a huge difference or should I go even lower ? I'm going for looooow gain.
Anyways, I also want to make it even more "low-gain" so I was wondering because it's a dual opamp, do I need to lower the value of the 1M pot (Drive) which is in the first feedback loop, or the 150k in the second feedback loop, or both ?
If I'd go from, let's say, 150k (in the second feedback loop) to 68k (the closest I have in stock to being half the value), would it make a huge difference or should I go even lower ? I'm going for looooow gain.