Hot Rodded Honey Bee

kkregsg · Post by **kkregsg** » 06 Jun 2012, 03:31

Did the PCB file ever become available on this one? I have the vero, but I'd like to attempt my first board etching on this one for my brother for his birthday. If anybody has some information I'd appreciate any help you might be able to share. Thanks.
Kregsg

kkregsg · Post by **kkregsg** » 14 Aug 2012, 05:48

Just wrapping up a greatly oversized box version of this one- to accommodate the extra emblems and decorations I used for my twin brother's 60th birthday build (a full size '69 Dodge Super Bee badge, among others). It's been a fun project, with lots of humorous changes to knob labels, etc. I'm more the straight into the amp type, but he loves his effects boxes. A lot more fun than buying him one.
If by any chance the wayward PCB file ever shows up, I'd like to give it a try, too. Thanks to all of you who help make all these potential projects available. Have to get my minimum daily requirement of solder smoke, and it keeps me off the streets, and reasonably out of trouble. At least my wife knows where I can be found.

Barcode · Post by **Barcode** » 04 Sep 2012, 19:01

You can build it using the regular Honey Bee board. This blog post on Brigg's page referenced earlier contains a link to madbeans "Yellow Shark" board, which is the honey bee board. Brigg's post discusses the changes to make to build the hot-rodded version if I recall correctly.

kkregsg · Post by **kkregsg** » 05 Sep 2012, 05:20

Barcode, a big thanks for the info. I just bought a Yellowshark board along with a couple of others from Haberdasher. Man, does it speed up build time! I'll check Briggs's blog for additional info. I got so focused on the vero build, I put the PCB version out of mind. Still want to give etching my own a try.
One other question, to whomever might know: on the vero edition of the Hot Rod Honey there is no "output" from the board labeled. I assume the D4, R23, LED 3 lead from the board is it. If I'm out in left field, I would welcome any direction.

Seiche · Post by **Seiche** » 05 Sep 2012, 05:46

kkregsg wrote:Barcode, a big thanks for the info. I just bought a Yellowshark board along with a couple of others from Haberdasher. Man, does it speed up build time! I'll check Briggs's blog for additional info. I got so focused on the vero build, I put the PCB version out of mind. Still want to give etching my own a try.
One other question, to whomever might know: on the vero edition of the Hot Rod Honey there is no "output" from the board labeled. I assume the D4, R23, LED 3 lead from the board is it. If I'm out in left field, I would welcome any direction.

"out" is from the middle of the volume pot. and no that is just the LED circuitry, to make the LED turn on and it should go to the switch and from there to ground or empty.

kkregsg · Post by **kkregsg** » 06 Sep 2012, 05:19

Thanks, Seiche. That clarifies it. I was over thinking/ under understanding the vero. I guess "output" really means output. I appreciate the help.
Barcode, I checked back on the Briggs blog. He doesn't address building the Hot Rod Honeybee version on a PCB, but differentiates between the original BJF Honey Bee and the Bearfoot version by pointing out component variations. I appreciate your taking the time to offer your thoughts.
The members here who help us rookies out, and make these project possible are super. Thanks to you all.

BJF · Post by **BJF** » 26 Jul 2016, 23:46

Hi

Oh you have gotten the BF244 version

Let's see a few notes to who ever builds one:

Firstly
Please use the original OP amp and yes Mouser has them and EZ version is just fine

Some may not get this working if the UP is wrong on the J-Fets-
Two ways either sound is overly distorted or unit is silent altogether.

Yes be my guest and hotrod and have great fun doing that

At your service
BJ
Designer of BJF Honey Bee