Roland - AP-7 Jet Phaser  [schematic]

All about modern commercial stompbox circuits from Electro Harmonix over MXR, Boss and Ibanez into the nineties.
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chicago_mike
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Post by chicago_mike »

trial and error.

the board "border" line..not the actual board, but the border, is around 4 1/2" by 5 1/2"
and then you play around with that size and your printer. :)

Im almost done with the little board thats inside the ap-7. Nobody ever got a trace side of that board so I am going by schematic and guessing. :oops:
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Post by rbstep »

I've got everthing for the AP-7 except the little board. If you get it done let me get a copy of the little board file please.....

ron

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Post by chicago_mike »

Im clening it up today. Right now I am finishing my FX-Blender board.

Gimme like an hour or so. Lets make some of these and make these fuckers 'round har jealous!!!! :mrgreen: :horsey: :twisted:
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Post by rbstep »

I'm with you all the way Mike.....

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Post by chicago_mike »

uhhhh...

1 more hour... :mrgreen:
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Post by chicago_mike »

Almost...

Ill see if I can post the zip file wich will contain the eaglecad files. The traces might be a little small for photo etching, as I have yet to build the small board. Also this is my first REAL complete eaglecad build so if anybody can make it better, go right ahead.

happy halloween all. 8)
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Post by sevinisthenumber »

Anyone have the layout image?
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chicago_mike
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Post by chicago_mike »

I did a layout of the little board in eagle.

Not verified though.

Ill get one with the parts layout here in a sec.
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jet phase small.png
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Post by Zokk »

Hi
as I've recentely had to repair one, I've took some time to draw the wiring diagram in full colors :D because it's impossible to see anything on the diagram from the service manual.
Take care of the mode swicth which is a dual one (although I don't know the exact reference, does someone know it? dual 2P6T right?). Also the input jack is a DPDT socket, the pin numbers on my drawing are corresponding to a similar socket I've got from Banzai.

Also I don't understand your pcb for the little board Mike... the original is directly soldered onto the bypass stompswitch as you'll see in my drawing. Please could you post your layout?

Anyway I think it'll be easy to populate the main pcb using the layout on the factory schematic (the only little change I've seen is for the trimmer placement, on the main pcb posted earlier in this topic, there are more pads to fit several shapes of modern trimmers). I think that some tracks are too close so the jpg would need a bit of cleaning to be "short-cut"-safe.

So here is the wiring, viewed from component side for both boards:
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Roland AP7wiring.jpg

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Post by Zokk »

sorry don't find that "edit" button:
just forgot to mention that the pots are viewed from their back... as you'll see when you open the original enclosure.

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Post by seedseed »

Hi everyone,

Has anyone got a copy of the service notes still the link up above seems to have disapeared thanks

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Post by grrrunge »

seedseed wrote:Hi everyone,

Has anyone got a copy of the service notes still the link up above seems to have disapeared thanks
Yes. Here:
roland jet phaser.PDF
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Post by seedseed »

Thank You, Much appreciated, it so good when someone responds like that i can't say thanks enough apparently this unit sounds great on bass so i look forward to making one up. :applause: :horsey: :thumbsup

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Post by chicago_mike »

Ahh!! I forgot this thread!1

The little board is the Gate. Its in updated versions of the jetphase. Its in the pdf.

But I forgot to print out a layout and I lost all that eagle stuff long ago. :slap:

So we would need to redo the gate part.
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Post by chicago_mike »

I thought the switch was 3P5T..but I have known to been wrong. :block:
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Post by chicago_mike »

chicago_mike wrote:I thought the switch was 3P5T..but I have known to been wrong. :block:
Ahh....nevermind. Okay..but I think its 3pole. and 6 position..but i havent slept all day.
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Post by herwr »

Hi guys,

I know this threads been quiet for a little while but I just picked up one of these babies with an apparent fault and want to try and fix her up.

The guy I bought it off stated only three of the switch positions worked correctly and I was wondering if anyone could confirm what type of effect I should be getting in each position.

The following are what happens on mine in the various Mode switch settings:
  • 1 - Nasal (thin) fuzz effect only (No Phasing)
    2 - Nasal (thin) fuzz effect with Jet Phasing
    3 - Throat (heavy) fuzz effect only (No Phasing)
    4 - Throat (heavy) fuzz effect with Jet Phasing
    5 - Clean(ish) sound (No Phasing)
    6 - Clean(ish) sound with Phasing
I'm guessing Mode 2 / 4 / & 6 are working as they should be and even possibly 1 & 3 if they are supposed to be a Fuzz only effects. However I'm guessing 5 should be doing something other than a clean sound and it makes me wonder if 1 & 3 should do something different as well.

I'd really appreciate if someone could give me an idea of what I'm supposed to get in the various modes? It will really help me (hopefully), to isolate the fault location (if any), as it's hard to work out from the schematic what the switching does or is supposed to do.

Cheers,
Rich

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Post by astrobass »

I want one of these so badly but my skills are not yet up to par to attempt cloning it. Still would love to hear any tips on building it though, because eventually, it has to happen.

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Post by herwr »

@armdnrdy1...
Cheers matey, I can't believe I didn't see that in the manual, I went over the schematic several times trying to figure out where the switch positions connect to, but obviously missed this part.

It seems mine is working on the 'Deep' modulation effect, but not on the Shallow' - Next step to figure out what the difference between 'Deep' and 'Shallow' is in the cct.

Cheers for your help

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Post by armdnrdy1 »

herwr,

That should be fairly simple to troubleshoot as the depth is controlled by switching between two resistors.

Look at page four of the service manual. You'll see two images of the AP-7 board, one with component designations (numbers) and one with values.

You want to find R35 (56K) and R36 (220K) Both resistors are located under IC3. Inspect the solder joints and if you have a meter check the resistance of both.

If they check out okay then look to wire pads 10 (yellow wire) and 11 (brown wire), both are located under R35 and R36. Check the wire connections on the pads. Follow the wires up to the "mode" switch. That the big 3 pole, 6 throw
rotary switch. Check the connections of the yellow and brown wire at the switch. Also, visually check the switch for proper function. (make sure it's tight and making contact as it makes it's rounds)

You might also want to check R84 (12K) That resistor can effect the depth as well.

Keep us posted.

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