Hides-His-Eyes wrote:This makes me want to look into using SMD
Can you use solder paste/cocktail stick on the pads, and then melt that with a fine tip iron? I'm convinced if I tried this I'd just end up with every resistor staying on the iron and a big sticky mess.
- apply some solder on 1 pad
- place the resistor with a tweezer
- keep the resistor in place while reflowing that one previously solder wetted pad with a cocktail stick
- solder the other end.
In time (after say 10 resistors) you will figure out how to do it all with that tweezer and without the cocktail stick
And use fine, hooked, tweezers.
Last edited by Dirk_Hendrik on 21 May 2011, 17:48, edited 1 time in total.
So when your PCB is flat on your bench you can rest the back end of the tweezer on that bench as well, keeping your component steady in place, even after a night of heavy drinking.
I usually use 0.5 mm solder. Paste is fine but keep it in the fridge when not using it! (It 'll harden otherwise)
Completed builds: rebote 2.5; supreaux; odie; heartthrob tremolo; ross phaser; dr. boogey; thor; baja black toast; slow gear attack, rebote, tri-vibe, small clone, little angel, magnus modulus, echo base, hex fuzz, big muff, 22/7.
has flux become a bit of a no-no? back in the day (1994-ish) when I did solder SMD, we used to use an amber fluid flux (rosin, I guess?) and it certainly made life a lot easier on multipin component soldering, but I can't seem to ind that any more in NZ - just the paste, or some spray can crap.
world's greatest tautologist ...in the world
Ronsonic wrote:...the lower the stakes the more vicious the combat.
Completed builds: rebote 2.5; supreaux; odie; heartthrob tremolo; ross phaser; dr. boogey; thor; baja black toast; slow gear attack, rebote, tri-vibe, small clone, little angel, magnus modulus, echo base, hex fuzz, big muff, 22/7.
rocklander wrote:has flux become a bit of a no-no? back in the day (1994-ish) when I did solder SMD, we used to use an amber fluid flux (rosin, I guess?) and it certainly made life a lot easier on multipin component soldering, but I can't seem to ind that any more in NZ - just the paste, or some spray can crap.
That's a video which I consider vey crude. Dirty solderin iron tip. Too much solder. Especially when havig a PCB with a solder mask one can make much prettier SMT solder jounts.
That's a video which I consider vey crude. Dirty solderin iron tip. Too much solder. Especially when havig a PCB with a solder mask one can make much prettier SMT solder jounts.
Oh yes it certainly is crude. He posted it as an example, to show that even with bad tools like the ones in the movie you *can* solder SMD components.
From the Neonixie mailinglist, where he announced this video:
These 1206 capacitors are actually quite large relatively speaking (I use 0201s at work). As demonstrated in the linked video, I had no problem putting them on with a 100W stained-glass window iron. Hope the videos and notes help.
The second video was to illustrate that what-ever iron you have will work for SMT... that one showed the iron I use to build fixtures.
other than that, do you have an estimate what you would have to charge at minimu? I imagine it to be quite time consuming to cram all that stuff in the box
Seiche wrote:I assumed this concerned only the artwork.
other than that, do you have an estimate what you would have to charge at minimu? I imagine it to be quite time consuming to cram all that stuff in the box
The artwork is part of the pedal. Otherwise it's just another pedal clone.
The cramming phase was over after the PCB design was done. Making and driling the PCB and doing al te soldering takes me about a working day. Add some 2 hours for the case plus artwork as well.
