Thanks Seiche - I appreciate you taking the time to reply and I'll be especially careful of that in futureSeiche wrote: I know what you mean, sometimes it is, sometimes it's not. The BS170P that the original SHO uses as a 180° pinout from the common BS170 many D.I.Y.ers substitute, for example. So same part number, different manufacturer can still have different pinouts, is what I meant.
More often than not the person doing the layout uses the pinout of the substitutes they have at hand, yet still lists the original part.
Catalinbread - Formula No. 5 [traced]
Hello people.
This is my first post in this great forum, which I always read.
I just wanted to upload a PCB I made for Formula 5.
BOM, PCB and Layour on *.rar file.
PCB is verified, put it together with a COT50 from La Revolution Deux.
Pics:
Half-way through the wiring!
Etching
Layout preview of the PCB:
This is my first post in this great forum, which I always read.
I just wanted to upload a PCB I made for Formula 5.
BOM, PCB and Layour on *.rar file.
PCB is verified, put it together with a COT50 from La Revolution Deux.
Pics:
Half-way through the wiring!
Etching
Layout preview of the PCB:
- Attachments
-
- Formula 5.rar
- BOM, PCB and Layout.
- (68.9 KiB) Downloaded 272 times
Hello, schematic painters and signal tracers,mutetourettes wrote:...
If anything, fed with humbuckers this pedal has too much gain. Any suggestions for reducing the gain?
first, i wanna thank you for your good work. I built the Formula five last night and it worked immediatly. However, i wondered, why it clips a little bit hard with gain all down, when played hard. Especially with humbuckers, as you may have expierienced. With LTspice, i simulated it and changed the 62k input resistor to higher values, and changed it on my Formula 5 to 1000k. I've seen on the pictures on the first page of this thread, that it should be 620k instead of 62k, because the rings are blue red orange instead of blue red red. Could someone please verify this??
These days i will try to match the transistors. For that purpose, are there some recommended values, or is it ok as long as the transistors are in a similar region??
Greetings
Thomas
- roseblood11
- Tube Twister
It's pretty obvious that it`s blue-red-orange, but that means "62k". 620k would be blue-red-yellow...
Does it sound better/closer to the original pedal with the 620k?
In another version of my vero layout I noted "C1 is 470pF, not 47pF" - but I don't remember, where that came from. Was it mentioned in the thread before?
Does it sound better/closer to the original pedal with the 620k?
In another version of my vero layout I noted "C1 is 470pF, not 47pF" - but I don't remember, where that came from. Was it mentioned in the thread before?
You are right. It is orange, but for some reason i had another factor in mind. so it is 62k.roseblood11 wrote:It's pretty obvious that it`s blue-red-orange, but that means "62k". 620k would be blue-red-yellow...
Does it sound better/closer to the original pedal with the 620k?
I can't say that it is closer to the original. But for me, it works better because now i control the clipping only with the gain knob, not with my guitar volume knob anymore. I simply didn't like it, when the first clipping stage came to clip. Of course, the overall gain is lower with this modification. I don't know whether i will keep the mod or not, i will test it for a while.
Greetings
Thomas
So it seems there was a Mark II catalinbread formula no5 with (reportedly) some differences in circuit/components (and then a Mark iii, which was just a paint job supposedly) - does anyone have any idea about the differences?
(I'm not talking about the newer 5f6 by the way)
Mark
(I'm not talking about the newer 5f6 by the way)
Mark
- Ice-9
- Degoop Doctor
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Yeah roseblood the correct value is 470p It was my pedal originally and I made the mistake labelling it 47p, but that error was cleared up and the correct value was definitely 470proseblood11 wrote:
In another version of my vero layout I noted "C1 is 470pF, not 47pF" - but I don't remember, where that came from. Was it mentioned in the thread before?
It's fairly straight forward, if you want to start it , press start. You can work out the rest of the controls for yourself !
No silicon heaven ? preposterous ! Where would all the calculators go ?
No silicon heaven ? preposterous ! Where would all the calculators go ?
- IvIark
- Tube Twister
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Thought I already posted this but must have missed it
"If anyone is a 'genius' for putting jacks in such a pedal in the only spot where they could physically fit, then I assume I too am a genius for correctly inserting my legs into my pants this morning." - candletears7 - TGP
- Motter
- Solder Soldier
I built this pedal with an extra footswitch for the 2M resistor (thanks IVIark!), but the box I have is drilled for four pots instead of three so I'm wondering what I can put in that fourth spot.
So far I'm thinking a voltage starve or a bass cut. What do you guys think would be more useful? Alternatively I could make that last pot into a boost pedal (sho or rangemaster), but I really like the built in boost effect of switching out the 2M.
So far I'm thinking a voltage starve or a bass cut. What do you guys think would be more useful? Alternatively I could make that last pot into a boost pedal (sho or rangemaster), but I really like the built in boost effect of switching out the 2M.
- Nocentelli
- Tube Twister
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Anybody seen gutshots or (shock horror) own one? I'm tempted to buy one with a view to tracing and I'm interested in finding out if they are SMD
modman wrote: ↑ Let's hope it's not a hit, because soldering up the same pedal everyday, is a sad life. It's that same ole devilish double bind again...
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I'm making a Dirty little secret to practice until someone publish the schematic of this one.
I hope it will be soon, as I don't have one I can't help too much.
I hope it will be soon, as I don't have one I can't help too much.