Friedman BE-OD Pedal [traced]
Hey guys
Not sure if anyone populated and got their board working, but I'm still working on mine.
I've pulled out of the enclosure so easier to work on. No shorts or bridges I can see and board cleaner with flux remover.
All diodes and ICs were replaced with fresh ones gain just to make sure ok.
All component values as well as orientation confirmed.
Not sure what is up. Still troubleshooting!
Not sure if anyone populated and got their board working, but I'm still working on mine.
I've pulled out of the enclosure so easier to work on. No shorts or bridges I can see and board cleaner with flux remover.
All diodes and ICs were replaced with fresh ones gain just to make sure ok.
All component values as well as orientation confirmed.
Not sure what is up. Still troubleshooting!
- rmroza
- Breadboard Brother
Ok, back from up north and checked the pedal.
I checked the values again, but this is actually the third time! All values good.
I looked for any kind of shorts or bridges, both sides. Again, couldn't find anything!!
I had applied a power source to the LED's previously with a resistor and it worked, so correct orientation(s) and were working.
When I touched the probe to the LED leg that was previosuly not lighting to check voltage there, it lit up (nothing but touching it)!!
I decided to reflow everything, both sides.
It now works as it should, seems to be quiet (I ran shielding cable from the switch to the jacks) and sounds great (it is dark thou, like the original BE-100), but nice and compressive and this is with both internal trimmer an gain all the way up, using the 330k resistors (as opposed to the 470k the original used). No whistling. Quiet. This is with the 100p and 120p capacitors installed (not the 470p betterment that was called out in the original Thermionic thread to eliminate whistling/howling).
I now have to play with it and see what values I like and tweak accordingly. I socketed everything for tweaking.
In summery...I have no idea what the problem was, but reflowing everything and both sides seemed to help!
I checked the values again, but this is actually the third time! All values good.
I looked for any kind of shorts or bridges, both sides. Again, couldn't find anything!!
I had applied a power source to the LED's previously with a resistor and it worked, so correct orientation(s) and were working.
When I touched the probe to the LED leg that was previosuly not lighting to check voltage there, it lit up (nothing but touching it)!!
I decided to reflow everything, both sides.
It now works as it should, seems to be quiet (I ran shielding cable from the switch to the jacks) and sounds great (it is dark thou, like the original BE-100), but nice and compressive and this is with both internal trimmer an gain all the way up, using the 330k resistors (as opposed to the 470k the original used). No whistling. Quiet. This is with the 100p and 120p capacitors installed (not the 470p betterment that was called out in the original Thermionic thread to eliminate whistling/howling).
I now have to play with it and see what values I like and tweak accordingly. I socketed everything for tweaking.
In summery...I have no idea what the problem was, but reflowing everything and both sides seemed to help!
Demoed the unit yesterday with a friend and A-B'ed it with an original BE-OD and BE-OD Deluxe.
In a nutshell, was able to dial them in perfectly. Some minor tonal differences depending on what clipping you use (in this case 1N4148's, but different components like transistors and such will yield different voicing), but basically works perfectly and going on my pedalboard!
I made both the channels the same and 330k=>470k and 27k=>10k and changing both pots to be the same, probably M1B's on both. Just need to decide cap value. Right now have 100p on one and 120p on the other. Not sure if I'll use one or the other or another value. Have to mess around with it.
In any event, pedal works fantastic! It is quiet even with 470k's (running shielded cable from input/output jacks to switch) and preferred keeping channels the same as high-gain Channel A. and liked the Channel A with internal pot at "0" better than the Channel B stock values myself. A little cleaner, brighter and bit. AC/DC sounded great!
Thanks Bugg and everyone. Enjoy and thanks for saving me $$$ ($60 to build myself versus $260)!
In a nutshell, was able to dial them in perfectly. Some minor tonal differences depending on what clipping you use (in this case 1N4148's, but different components like transistors and such will yield different voicing), but basically works perfectly and going on my pedalboard!
I made both the channels the same and 330k=>470k and 27k=>10k and changing both pots to be the same, probably M1B's on both. Just need to decide cap value. Right now have 100p on one and 120p on the other. Not sure if I'll use one or the other or another value. Have to mess around with it.
In any event, pedal works fantastic! It is quiet even with 470k's (running shielded cable from input/output jacks to switch) and preferred keeping channels the same as high-gain Channel A. and liked the Channel A with internal pot at "0" better than the Channel B stock values myself. A little cleaner, brighter and bit. AC/DC sounded great!
Thanks Bugg and everyone. Enjoy and thanks for saving me $$$ ($60 to build myself versus $260)!
Hello everyone I made this pedal. I really liked the sound, but there was a problem. When the strings are silenced on overload, the sound strangely fades with wheezing. The value of the potentiometer is 100k by 40%. If you unscrew it to zero, then everything is fine. But then there's not enough gain, it sounds like a crunch. I tried to replace the TL072 chips with NE5532, nothing has changed. I tried to replace the 120pf capacitor with 1500 pf - the noise became less, but the problem did not disappear. The power supply is stabilized, the board is in the case. The input and output wire is shielded. I apologize for the bad English, translated by a translator.
Audio file in the attachment.
Audio file in the attachment.
Such a type of "wheezing" in some cases is produced by fake IC (aliexpress & Co.).
Btw. that TL072 & NE5332 are ORG (ordered from reliable sources) or they are ordered from aliexpress?
I bought all the parts in a proven place, Epcos, Wima, Jamicon capacitors. But I bought the chips at a local radio store in my city, they look very similar to the original. But you were right. They're fake. Yesterday I tried to change these chips to NE5532 alternately, and not all at once. I replaced all the chips with NE5532 at once and the problem is solved. In general, that store will be on my blacklist) Thanks for the advice. The pedal turned out to be very evil!
I bought all the parts in a proven place, Epcos, Wima, Jamicon capacitors. But I bought the chips at a local radio store in my city, they look very similar to the original. But you were right. They're fake. Yesterday I tried to change these chips to NE5532 alternately, and not all at once. I replaced all the chips with NE5532 at once and the problem is solved. In general, that store will be on my blacklist) Thanks for the advice. The pedal turned out to be very evil!
I have one more question. When the pedal is off (true bypass) and if you unscrew the volume knob on the pedal to the minimum position of zero, then the guitar volume disappears. I can't figure out what this is about? After all, with "true bypass" this should not be...
Maybe you didn't wire the 3pdt switch properly?Impulse wrote: ↑18 Nov 2022, 21:01 I have one more question. When the pedal is off (true bypass) and if you unscrew the volume knob on the pedal to the minimum position of zero, then the guitar volume disappears. I can't figure out what this is about? After all, with "true bypass" this should not be...
Show us a picture of the inside of the box and the switch itself.