Ibanez - FL-303 ( Flanger) [schematic]

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Dirk_Hendrik
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Post by Dirk_Hendrik »

Fresh schematic stuff for y'all. Comments appreciated. Compliments also appreciated, especcially from others than others than the regulars' :wink:

http://www.dirk-hendrik.com/ibanez_fl303_fllanger.pdf
Sorry. Plain out of planes.

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Post by MoreCowbell »

Dirk_Hendrik wrote:Fresh schematic stuff for y'all. Comments appreciated. Compliments also appreciated, especcially from others than others than the regulars' :wink:

http://www.dirk-hendrik.com/ibanez_fl303_fllanger.pdf
Now THAT'S one I've been seriously interested in. I'd imaging that Stephen Giles will be along shortly to download it !

Thanks Dirk !

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Post by MoreCowbell »

BTW... "U5" doesn't seem to be labeled (at least I'm not seeing it)....

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Post by Dirk_Hendrik »

MoreCowbell wrote:BTW... "U5" doesn't seem to be labeled (at least I'm not seeing it)....
annoying schematic package... corrected.

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Post by The Rotagilla »

Much thanks!
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Post by analogguru »

:hmmm: Is this schematic now for the FL101A or FL101B pcb ? :roll:

and is it possible that R117 and R 131 are 24k and R103 and R127 are 2k4 ? And this Rx.... 30k ?

I mean this is only a question..... :roll:

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Post by bajaman »

Thanks once again Dirk for your excellent schematic drawings :D
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Post by jreeves47 »

analogguru wrote::hmmm: Is this schematic now for the FL101A or FL101B pcb ? :roll:

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FL101A as only the B has the LED

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Post by mirosol »

Hi.
I'm trying to fix one, board revision B. It's an old unit, but in very nice overall condition. Even has the box, papers and stickers intact. According to cap codes, this unit is from '78. There seemed to be an issue with the LFO, so i replaced C122 and C12 with suitable new caps. Got the LFO and clock running. Or so i think. I got the LFO pushing the clock from around 9.0V to 11.8V. And the PHI_1 and 2 contacts pushing the SAD1024 at 5.9-6.1V. The bias for the BBD is set at 4.9V for BBD pins 2 and 15. Chip is getting the 12V at VOSC and as far as i can see, everything should be ok. However, the signal gets to the input of the BBD, but there's no signal at the pins 11 and 12, even with the level trimmer maxed. I'm reading 7.9-8.1V at those pins.

Reason i'm asking here is that if someone would know if those voltages mentioned are correct. And if so, could the SAD1024 be my issue? Clean signal is ok and as far as i can tell, everything else is as well.
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Post by plush »

mirosol wrote:And if so, could the SAD1024 be my issue?
I've met quite a lot of bad 1024s (like 20 or 30 I dunno) through the last couple of years. All were missing signal on one or both outputs. Sad stuff, Mirosol :(

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Post by mirosol »

Sad indeed. I only recall seeing one or two dead ones. In this case i want to be completely sure before calling it. Mainly due to everything else (box etc.) being in near pristine condition. Paying ~100 bucks for a used donor part isn't an option.

The box has a price sticker on it as well. A local music store's price of 677mk (that's finnish marks).
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Post by plush »

mirosol wrote:Mainly due to everything else (box etc.) being in near pristine condition. Paying ~100 bucks for a used donor part isn't an option.
AFAIK, 1024s are prone to degradation over time, even when not been used, so investing in NOS chip can be a really bad choice (it can be dead or half dead or on it's way to it's grave).

There must be some odd japanese stuff using 1024s, that can be bought for cheap, I'd look for it on ebay or local JP auctions.

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Post by Dirk_Hendrik »

I cannot subscribe to that age-ing.
The main and major reason for 1024's to die is because they're handled without ESD precautions. NOS does not say anything about how devices are handled. Similar the tag "original packaging" must be taken with quite some salt for a device that easily is 50 years old and may be repackaged 40 years ago already.
Sorry. Plain out of planes.

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Post by plush »

Dunno, we've had some original 1024s, that were stored in conductive foam and esd-safe packaging, that were used couple times for reference and testing purposes. Another one was inside maxon chorus/flanger, can't tell the model. Some time later and <<BAM!>> one of reference ic's outputs is gone, maxon-one died couple of shelf monthes later, followed by enormous frustration. Testing stand was grounded and used tvs-diodes for protective purposes.
Maybe it's just a coincidence, maybe not.

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Post by Garrett335 »

Hello FSB Board! I'm new around here and need some help.
I'm trying to fix a FL303 for a friend. He gave this to me in non working condition. Looks like someone attempted to install a jack and removed the 2 9v clips inside.
SO I have two questions, how do you wire this for a jack w 18v power supply, aaaaand if that's too crazy, how is this thing supposed to be wired as originally build (I.E. where do the battery jack (R&B) wires go?
I've searched other forums including this one. They talk about wires 10 / 11 /12, I'm not sure which wires these are, the board does not list them by number and the schematic doesn't number them.
Any help is greatly appreciated! Thank you guys!
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Post by modman »

The schematic is in this thread now (merged)
or compare with some stock gut shots:
ibanez-fl-303-flanger-2621853.jpeg
IBANEZ FL303 Flanger 01.jpeg
IBANEZ FL303 Flanger 01.jpeg (79.01 KiB) Viewed 222 times
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