Rockett Blue Note OD  [traced]

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stringline
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Post by stringline »

storyboardist wrote:
distortion_gfx1 wrote:Anybody got a Pcb layout for this..?

im kinda into lazy-ness right now. :mrgreen:
Almost 5 years late, but here's one. :lol:

[ Image ]
verified? 8)

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storyboardist
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Post by storyboardist »

stringline wrote:verified? 8)
Not yet, but it should be good.

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greenskull
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Post by greenskull »

Verified! Built this a week ago and need to box it up.
Sounds killer with the Tele I got on Christmas.
Thanks for the layout, Storyboardist! :applause:
Now hoping a pcb layout for the Chicken Soup pops up. :wink:
fuck smooth tone, fuck eric johnson - Seiche

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storyboardist
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Post by storyboardist »

Cool! Thanks for verifying!

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Verx
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Post by Verx »

Hi guys, I have the first version without Mod built and two questions. Is it normal that the volume (hot switch off) at 12 o'clock pot position is quieter than when the Effkekt is off?
And what could be the fact that the Fat Pot has no influence on the sound?
sorry for my bad English

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black03
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Post by black03 »

Verx wrote:Hi guys, I have the first version without Mod built and two questions. Is it normal that the volume (hot switch off) at 12 o'clock pot position is quieter than when the Effkekt is off?
And what could be the fact that the Fat Pot has no influence on the sound?
sorry for my bad English
If it works both ways
It is equal to all overdrives, as lovepdal, jhs, timmy, jan ray, etc.
with some minor changes.

The wheel was invented and

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Post by arivabox »

I really need help, the pedal has long been soldered and is in the case, but it annoys a loud clap when the 3PDT button is turned on. With another, there is no such problem, but it's very noticeable here. Thank you for any help, the pedal is very like.

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segoy
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Post by segoy »

Greg wrote:Seljetnoma kindly sent me some detailed photos of his Rockett Blue Note OD (thanks Frank), and I traced it with his help.

Looks like it's the same board and circuit as the Rockett Animal, with different component values, so someone might like to work out those values from the pic in the other thread and we can solve that one also.

If someone does it and wants to send me the values I can easily update this schemo to the new values, and post it in the other thread.

Firstly.. here's a couple of pics:
I definitely see 4001 diodes, not 4007.
Do you?

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HamishR
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Post by HamishR »

All the Rockett pedals I have opened up have used 4001s, not 4007s. Not that it would make much difference either way. FWIW the Rockett Animal, Blue Note, Caliber 45 and Majestic are all very similar but have their own sound. I think for such a simple circuit they are amazing. My favourites are the 45 and the Majestic. The majestic uses a pair of Ge diodes with 4001s for clipping and this seems to round off the highs a little which can sound cool with a bright Les Paul (like mine). I love the lack of compression and full response at low gain.

One difference between these pedals is the value of the gain pot. The Blue Note has a 50K, the Majestic 100K, the 45 250K and the Animal 500K. I may have got some of these the wrong way around but you get the idea.

I put these overdrives next to some BJF style ODs on my board and they hold up incredibly well considering they use about 1/3 the components. And 1/5 what is in a Dirty Shirley! I like lower gain ODs so these suit me very well. And I would much rather one of these than any Klon.

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Post by MoonWatcher »

HamishR wrote:All the Rockett pedals I have opened up have used 4001s, not 4007s. Not that it would make much difference either way.
It should make absolutely no difference, at all.

And, these types of diodes have very small dynamic resistance, so it's typically helpful to combine them in series with other diode types that have decent dynamic resistance.

I find that the biggest benefit of the 1N4001/2/3/4/5/6/7 diode is that it has a forward voltage that is in between something like a 1N270 and a 1N4148 (well, it's closer to the 1N4148). So series combinations of 1N270 and 1N4148 may yield a forward voltage that's just a little too low, and a pair of 1N4148s in series may be just a little too high, but something like a combination of 1N4001 and 1N4148 can sometimes produce clipping that sounds just a little bit better (especially with soft clipping).

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Post by mictester »

indyguitarist wrote: 15 Jun 2010, 15:37 schem looks fairly correct I think (though part values were different originally).

My "design" (and i use that term loosely) was the topology roughly. Jay and Chris changed part values quite a bit.
As far as the other concerns, build the thing and see if you like it, if not, tweak it. it's obviously a pretty simple circuit. that's what was wanted.
Brian - why didn't you protect the op-amp input? It's trivial to add a unity gain transistor buffer (that can also be used to give a really high input impedance if that's wanted). I'd have used the second half of the op-amp as a unity gain buffer stage, and prevent subsequent devices affecting the output of the overdrive....
"Why is it humming?" "Because it doesn't know the words!"

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indyguitarist
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Post by indyguitarist »

mictester wrote: 09 May 2022, 15:40
indyguitarist wrote: 15 Jun 2010, 15:37 schem looks fairly correct I think (though part values were different originally).

My "design" (and i use that term loosely) was the topology roughly. Jay and Chris changed part values quite a bit.
As far as the other concerns, build the thing and see if you like it, if not, tweak it. it's obviously a pretty simple circuit. that's what was wanted.
Brian - why didn't you protect the op-amp input? It's trivial to add a unity gain transistor buffer (that can also be used to give a really high input impedance if that's wanted). I'd have used the second half of the op-amp as a unity gain buffer stage, and prevent subsequent devices affecting the output of the overdrive....
Good question!
It's been many years since I was initially commissioned for this one, I don't recall if my original design had anything there or not. Basically, I drew up a rough schematic and Jay took it from there. It's possible that I was too "green" at that time as well and didn't add anything there, hard to say! IIRC, I don't think Jay wanted an input or output buffer on it, but again... going from memory and that's been maybe 15 years ago? Something like that. If I was redesigning it I'd do it quite a bit differently. At a minimum, i'd absolutely put an output buffer on it and at least some resistance on the input. I'd also change the power supply as well, and dump that 0 ohm resistor that was (IMO) pointless.

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Post by twotees »

mictester wrote: 09 May 2022, 15:40
indyguitarist wrote: 15 Jun 2010, 15:37 schem looks fairly correct I think (though part values were different originally).

My "design" (and i use that term loosely) was the topology roughly. Jay and Chris changed part values quite a bit.
As far as the other concerns, build the thing and see if you like it, if not, tweak it. it's obviously a pretty simple circuit. that's what was wanted.
Brian - why didn't you protect the op-amp input? It's trivial to add a unity gain transistor buffer (that can also be used to give a really high input impedance if that's wanted). I'd have used the second half of the op-amp as a unity gain buffer stage, and prevent subsequent devices affecting the output of the overdrive....
Hello mictester, Just trying to catch up with you on an unrelated topic to this thread. Regarding the "Low Power Relay Switch" Switching Scheme, You stated there was a way to include circuitry to allow for power up reset on the relay setting to keep it in sync.
See Following --

mictester wrote: ↑21 Nov 2014, 05:17
Using a CMOS Schmitt inverter: Connect a 1µ from input to ground. Connect a 470k from input to + supply. Connect a 1N4148 diode from the input up to supply, with the anode at the input end. Apply power, and you'll see a ½s positive-going pulse at the output of the Inverter. This is your power-on reset pulse. Apply this to the "reset" inputs of any bistable's you're using, and you'll guarantee their state at power-on.

I very much appreciate your nifty little low powered Relay switching, its a great concept and works really well. Just a little unsure on the instructions you gave on the power on reset circuit to avoid out of sync on power up, which I have sometimes had a problem with, not always, but occasionally it glitches into the switch system in some builds. Please if you wouldn't mind could you do us a diagram description schematic of the "power-on reset pulse" circuit as you previously described, This might sought my dilemmas out. Hope you can oblige. :)
Thanks, Trevor

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