Analogman - TS9/808/Silver Mod  [traced]

General documentation, gut shot, schematic links, ongoing circuit tracing, deep thoughts ... all about boutique stompboxes.
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noram
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Post by noram »

Hey. So I'm trying to put together a mouser order for these parts. I'm having trouble finding the right replacements for the electrolytic capacitors. For example, what voltage should be selected? Will a high voltage rating affect tone? If you get at least 25v rating. Should you then be able to run the pedal at 18 vdc?

Also, the film caps. Is polypropylene better than polyester?

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candletears7
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Post by candletears7 »

Just the 25v ones mate. They'll be fine. As long as whatever chip is in yours, if it can take more than 18v then you're good.
And cap wise just use the regular green poly caps. Pretty sure they are polyester, the good old Greenie mylar or high voltage mylar (metallized polyester) caps, like this:

http://www.futurlec.com/CapPolyester.shtml

Am I right here guys?

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Post by candletears7 »

cant edit my post. I shouldve read the whole thread. You want the Panasonics, which you can get at Smallbear for example.

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vanguard
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Post by vanguard »

Image

Image

so i've wanted to know what warrants $70 for the "silver" mod for a long time. here are some pics from ebay; and i looked inside one recently as well.

-- looks like 3 japanese electrolitics (metallic green and purple) and 2 mystery red caps are it for caps.
-- the chip is replaced with a single "D" JRC,
-- and there are a handful of CC resistors peppered in the signal path and one down on the input jack?
-- looks like he replaced one clipping diode with a small ceramic cap?.
-- also, new clipping diodes. what are those?

any idea what this stuff is, and values on the red caps? this pedal does indeed sound clearer and more hi-fi, but is still very much a TS.

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sinner
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Post by sinner »

CC resistors are part of the "brown mod" ts9 to 808 conversion

Big ass red cap is no-polar Panasonic SMF series, and it's 1uF, the smaller one is 47nF and it's a part of popular fat mod (doubled value of input cap)

Green cap might be NP 10uF Nichicon AFAIR

Violet caps are made by Os-Con, and those are quite cool caps (hi Mictester ;) I love you)

There is one cap missing (C6 on SD-1 board)

and the clipping is changed to symetrical (ts808 style), fuck knows what they are...

I wonder did he changed Tone pot to "W" taper as well...

...this is what I see after quick look

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sinner
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Post by sinner »

...I forgot, AFAIR in Silver modded TS9 Mikey is using 47uF and 100uF os-cons

Have fun

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Post by sinner »

I know what the diodes are!

That's rare-elephant-urine-dipped-secret-diodes-made-by-mutants-from-outer-space, and available only for immortals little cosmic devices called MA150 (panasonic brand), that Maxon is advertising hardly

:)

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Post by sinner »

Actually... one more thing...

There is one cap added - in place where the third diode was - small ceramic, but I don't know what value it is, as I don't see on your gutshots. It shouldn't be bigger that 50pF

If you still have an access to it, do the pict please, or tell me the code on it

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Post by MoonWatcher »

There's some screwed up stuff going on with that one - is it an authentic analgoman job?

C6 was left in place. The obligatory mod that almost any SD-1 owner does is to snip that thing post haste.

And the small ceramic in D6's spot is wrong - it puts the cap in series with D5. For symmetrical clipping, you'd want a jumper for D6. I'm guessing the cap is either 47pF or 51pF, and it should be somehow rigged up so that it is parallel to D4 - either trying to squeeze it between the solder points on the solder side, or combining it in parallel with D4 before soldering it in.

I'd think that analogman would also want to go with more TS-spec stuff. That would mean changing R7 and R9 to 1K, and R17 to 220R. And that would mean changing C4 and C12 to 220nF with those Panasonic looking caps. C1, C2, and C3 would probably also be replaced with Panasonics, most likely with C1 becoming 22nF.

C8 is probably now a 100nF Panasonic, as that seems to be the big standard with making a SD-1 TS-like, since 100nF is the TS-spec. That's the cap to the output buffer, with C9 being the equivalent for bypass mode. I thought all those modding guys claimed to improve the bypass by putting a metalized film cap in there too, so it's odd that C9 is stock.

C11 and C17 are the power filtering/bias supply caps. C10 is the final output cap after the output buffer. Stock, it's 1uF. That replacement is probably 10uF to match a TS. But C10 and C17 are not laid down horizontally like C11 is. Even the film type replacing the electro for C7 is laid down horizontally. You want those things positioned so that they won't hit anything when the pedal is closed up - analogman has got to know that, and wouldn't put them in vertically. By having some flexibility at the cap leads, it also helps to prevent solder traces from being torn if someone were to bump those caps around, too.

These are all just general musings - I don't know what exactly analogman would change with his mod, but some of the stuff in those pics just has a sort of copycat/"change it w/o understanding why" kind of look to it. The ceramic cap at D6, leaving in C6, and not laying down those two electros just kind of are telltale signs to me.

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vanguard
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Post by vanguard »

wow, great stuff, guys! :hug:

i've seen the innards of two of these things and neither of them had the classic "c6" removal, both had the little ceramic in place of the clipping diode, and both had the electrolitics kind of half-standing like that. . .

what the hell'd he use a CC resistor down on the input jack for?

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Post by sinner »

I may be blind but I clearly see no C6 on board. Only hot glue left in place

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Post by sinner »

askwho69 wrote:
sinner wrote:I know what the diodes are!

That's rare-elephant-urine-dipped-secret-diodes-made-by-mutants-from-outer-space, and available only for immortals little cosmic devices called MA150 (panasonic brand), that Maxon is advertising hardly

:)
hahahah nice one Pawel not so sarcastic :D

Something must to justify the price and availability :blackeye

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Post by MoonWatcher »

sinner wrote:I may be blind but I clearly see no C6 on board. Only hot glue left in place
It's right next to R9, since it's in parallel with it. 10nF - sucks all the top end off of things.

It's like the anti-bright cap of the Deluxe Reverb. Snip that mutha.

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Post by Electron Tornado »

Just some observations:

C6 was left in. It sits just below and slightly to the right of the IC.

The clipping diodes are installed correctly - note the orientation diagrams on the pcb below them.

The resistors - changing values probably makes more difference than any change in material.

Why does the IC and its socket look like they were kind of beat up?

Am I missing it, or is the mod to get rid of the bleed through not installed?

One critical detail in the original post - those pictures are from ebay. Buyer beware!
"Ah, data, the missing link!"

"Look, anybody can drill a hole, but if you want it misaligned or off center, then I'm your man!"

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Post by m.alexander »

analogman silver mod
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20220812_155512.jpg
20220812_155526.jpg

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m.alexander
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Post by m.alexander »

silver mod
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IMG-20220813-WA0054.jpeg
20220812_155518.jpg

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Post by m.alexander »

c10 10uf
c11 47uf
c17 100uf

c8 104j
c7 105j

d6 47pf
d5 d4 .. GE diode?

r7 10k cc
r16 100r cc
r17 10k cc
R1 10k cc

ci jrc4558d

q1 q2 k30A Y4E
Q5 Q6 C2240 GR4F

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