Digitech - Bad Monkey [schematic]
I'm working on my understanding of what all of the components do. Your input helps. Thanks!
- Ice-9
- Degoop Doctor
Information
To recognise and understand the bypass switching in this pedal have a look at R.G. Keens The Technology of JFET Switching in Boss and Ibanez Pedals at http://www.geofex.com It is explained very well.touringbubble wrote:I'm working on my understanding of what all of the components do. Your input helps. Thanks!
It's fairly straight forward, if you want to start it , press start. You can work out the rest of the controls for yourself !
No silicon heaven ? preposterous ! Where would all the calculators go ?
No silicon heaven ? preposterous ! Where would all the calculators go ?
Thanks for the info everyone! I'll definitely look into those resources.
Would anyone happen to have a value for C31 (power adapter)? That seems to be the last missing piece of the schematic. I've made a modified schematic to account for all of the discussion in this thread that I'll post once I get that last value. Maybe someone else can get benefit from it too.
Would anyone happen to have a value for C31 (power adapter)? That seems to be the last missing piece of the schematic. I've made a modified schematic to account for all of the discussion in this thread that I'll post once I get that last value. Maybe someone else can get benefit from it too.
Just following up ... I admittedly have no idea what I'm doing, but I think a 47u could work for C31. Any opinions?touringbubble wrote:Would anyone happen to have a value for C31 (power adapter)? That seems to be the last missing piece of the schematic. I've made a modified schematic to account for all of the discussion in this thread that I'll post once I get that last value. Maybe someone else can get benefit from it too.
- Ice-9
- Degoop Doctor
Information
The genuine Bad Monkey Schematic doesn't show any cap in that position that I can see, if you really want to use one then anything from 10uf to 47uf is quite suitable. (leave it out - put it in. .. it's up to you)Frank_NH wrote:Here's a bufferless version of the Bad Monkey on vero. I may build this one because it is different than your standard tube screamer. I would probably try using two different diodes (e.g. 1N4148 and a 1N4001) to get some asymmetric clipping as that is my preference for op amp overdrives.touringbubble wrote:Hi everyone! I'm just now getting in to building and am getting a lot from browsing the forums here. Thanks a ton for all the schematics and tips!
I had a question about the Bad Monkey schematic here. I've been looking at schematics of pedals that I'd like to try out, and this was on the list. I can tell it's a bit more complicated than a standard boost pedal, and I can appreciate that at my non-existent skill level.
If I wanted to build the main instrument circuit of the BM without the emulated output, would it be as simple as not building the circuit for the speaker output and simplifying the adapter circuit to match a standard +9v setup? Or, is that power schematic important for the proper voltage to the main circuit?
Thanks for the input!
http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/201 ... rless.html
It's fairly straight forward, if you want to start it , press start. You can work out the rest of the controls for yourself !
No silicon heaven ? preposterous ! Where would all the calculators go ?
No silicon heaven ? preposterous ! Where would all the calculators go ?
Ah, okay. Thanks! I'm now learning that caps like that are usually just to clean up noise, so that makes sense.Ice-9 wrote:The genuine Bad Monkey Schematic doesn't show any cap in that position that I can see, if you really want to use one then anything from 10uf to 47uf is quite suitable. (leave it out - put it in. .. it's up to you)
- Ice-9
- Degoop Doctor
Information
Those caps are not JUST to clean up noise It serves the job as a power supply noise filter AND it rejects AC signals from different parts of the circuit. two jobs but both similar.touringbubble wrote:Ah, okay. Thanks! I'm now learning that caps like that are usually just to clean up noise, so that makes sense.Ice-9 wrote:The genuine Bad Monkey Schematic doesn't show any cap in that position that I can see, if you really want to use one then anything from 10uf to 47uf is quite suitable. (leave it out - put it in. .. it's up to you)
It's fairly straight forward, if you want to start it , press start. You can work out the rest of the controls for yourself !
No silicon heaven ? preposterous ! Where would all the calculators go ?
No silicon heaven ? preposterous ! Where would all the calculators go ?
And that's why they have polarity? Makes sense. Thanks!Ice-9 wrote:Those caps are not JUST to clean up noise It serves the job as a power supply noise filter AND it rejects AC signals from different parts of the circuit. two jobs but both similar.
- induction
- Resistor Ronker
Not quite. The caps have polarity because they are electrolytic. It's not a requirement to use polarized caps here (or ever). Polarity in caps is not a feature, it's a necessary evil. The bottom line is that for large capacitance values, non-polar caps are more expensive than polarized ones.touringbubble wrote: And that's why they have polarity? Makes sense. Thanks!
- cspar
- Breadboard Brother
Capacitors block DC and allow AC to pass through.
The audio signal itself is AC.
"Just because the forgoing circuits have produced results there is no reason experimenting won't lead to added results." L. E. Darling, in his article containing the earliest published vacuum tube synthesizer circuit, Popular Science Jan 1920
- Ice-9
- Degoop Doctor
Information
Yeah, Oops. That's what i meant.
It's fairly straight forward, if you want to start it , press start. You can work out the rest of the controls for yourself !
No silicon heaven ? preposterous ! Where would all the calculators go ?
No silicon heaven ? preposterous ! Where would all the calculators go ?