Green Ringer

Discussion regarding early stompbox technology: 1960-1975 Please keep discussion focused and contribute what info you have...
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J4mes
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Post by J4mes »

Hi, all!

Just spent the last hour or two transposing this into vero form. I got the circuit from a comment on YouTube.
I've not built it yet, literally just copied the schematic. Please can someone cast an eye over these and check I haven't made a hash of it?

Must be about my second layout. EVER. So not really even into a rhythm yet.
I've checked to the best of my exhaustion levels for this evening.

Image
Image

If all looks okay, I'll have a got at building this tomorrow. Sound clip from YouTube
Last edited by J4mes on 29 May 2024, 14:41, edited 2 times in total.

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BMS1971
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Post by BMS1971 »

interesting idea to add LDR activated octave

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Post by J4mes »

Board is amended, re-uploaded, and built. Just need to finish off-board wiring and report back. I noticed quite a few mistakes, so jigged everything around. I'm enjoying designing PCB's, but they're quite far off the artwork you guys produce. Any recommendations for the next build? I'm able to produce clean cut PCB's, so something that really hits the pleasure centers of the ear. Something like the surfy bear reverb. Or some form of modulation effect...? Suggestions welcome

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Post by BMS1971 »

You cound add an LFO to trigger octave ;-)

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Post by J4mes »

BMS1971 wrote: 30 May 2024, 08:21 You cound add an LFO to trigger octave ;-)
Although I've built a lot, it's mostly painting by number for me unfortunately. How exactly would you go about it?
I'm asking a lot of questions here, but my thirst for knowledge is unquenchable.

Thanks

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Post by BMS1971 »

just use an LFO who drives a LED like the one from shot to the moon tremolo

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Post by J4mes »

Quick update: The vero layout is working. I should have specified on the drawing (which I will update either today or tomorrow), that gain 1 goes to ground. For those that don't/won't immediately see it.

I'm getting fuzz with variable gain, but no octave... I've half traced it up to the octave pot, which everything seems to be ok. I'm not too sure what the LDR is achieving here? Disconnected the LDR from the Diode, and moved the 1n4148 diode cathode up one row and a cut on the same line. You can see if you look at the diodes that the 5.6k resister should go to ground (which it does), and the back of the diode should be connected to the 68k one row above. Apart from this, I can't find anything else. Can anyone else see anything?


Regards,
J

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Post by J4mes »

Any help would be greatly appreciated. TIA

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Post by J4mes »

Verified
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Post by JordanFontaine »

This looks rad. So the fuzz increases with pick attack?

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Post by J4mes »

JordanFontaine wrote: 28 Jun 2024, 23:18 This looks rad. So the fuzz increases with pick attack?

In theory, yes. You can remove the diodes and push it clean, as well. The sensitivity control works well with the octave, but you have to fettle it a bit. The LDR was originally on a switch to lift it, making the use of just the octave control.

The rectifying section can be swapped for different response (GE and 1N4148). Original was 1N60 I think.
Really nice little circuit, and sounds great when boxed. Don't forget, if you are going to build this, you need to make sure that the LDR's are covered and being lit by only the LED's. Otherwise it won't respond properly!

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Post by elijahnelson »

1. Prepare for Testing:

Before soldering, prepare your testing equipment (multimeter, continuity tester) to verify connections and troubleshoot any issues that may arise during assembly.

2. Build Methodically:

When you begin soldering components onto the vero board, take your time and proceed methodically. Double-check each connection as you go to avoid solder bridges or cold joints.mapquest

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Post by J4mes »

elijahnelson wrote: 02 Jul 2024, 04:59 1. Prepare for Testing:

Before soldering, prepare your testing equipment (multimeter, continuity tester) to verify connections and troubleshoot any issues that may arise during assembly.

2. Build Methodically:

When you begin soldering components onto the vero board, take your time and proceed methodically. Double-check each connection as you go to avoid solder bridges or cold joints.mapquest
Are you sure you have the right thread?

J

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Post by angeltrait »

elijahnelson wrote: 02 Jul 2024, 04:59 1. Prepare for Testing:

Before soldering, prepare your testing equipment (multimeter, continuity tester) to verify connections and troubleshoot any issues that may arise during assembly.

2. Build Methodically:Fireboy and Watergirl

When you begin soldering components onto the vero board, take your time and proceed methodically. Double-check each connection as you go to avoid solder bridges or cold joints.
It's sound like chat gpt :scratch:

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Post by thymegaiters »

elijahnelson wrote: 02 Jul 2024, 04:59 1. Prepare for Testing:

Before soldering, prepare your testing equipment (multimeter, continuity tester) to verify connections and troubleshoot any issues that may arise during assembly.

2. Build Methodically:

When you begin soldering components onto the vero board, take your time and proceed methodically. Double-check each connection as you go to avoid solder bridges or cold joints.geometry dash lite
For potentiometers, use wire. As you can see, certain pads are located where the wire will pass. Before uploading, tidy up and add the missing-in this example, incorrectly placed-potentiometers. The octave effect is always there because the switch merely short circuits the LDR.

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Post by J4mes »

Not too sure what's going on here... The circuit is working. The schematic was shared online, so I didn't have anything to do with the errors. The circuit "out" simply goes to pin three of the volume pot'. Pin two goes to your switch, or jack output, and pin one goes to ground.

Corrected schematic.
Image

For original, start at the 47nf cap after the first gain stage, but keep the 1M to ground. Omit both LDR's, and LED circuit. Remove the octave pot, and wire each connection of pins 1,2,3 of said pot together.

Regards,
J

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