Skreddy - Mayo

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JimiB
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Post by JimiB »

make sure you let us know what you think!

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Post by JimiB »

seriously!

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nelson
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Post by nelson »

fuck the mayo

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Post by JimiB »

awesome

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Post by mattpas »

Anyone make the Mayo with 2N5088 transistors?
How did it come out?

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Post by tschrama »

Hi,

I made a few versions, all with BC550C transistors.. (selected Hfe = 580/620)...I haven't found any 2N5088, but I would love to try those.. I finally build one version with transistor sockets, so I can experiment a bit more, but I haven't done that yet...

anyways, the circuit sound great, lot's of sustain, I love the 'flat EQ' switch, that I use alot.. the 220nF caps might be a key ingredient for the circuit..

goodluck,
Thijs

PS
I would love to build a Pink Flesh... is that OK with Skreddy? Someone has a circuit?
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Post by Skreddy »

tschrama wrote:Hi,

I made a few versions, all with BC550C transistors.. (selected Hfe = 580/620)...I haven't found any 2N5088, but I would love to try those.. I finally build one version with transistor sockets, so I can experiment a bit more, but I haven't done that yet...

anyways, the circuit sound great, lot's of sustain, I love the 'flat EQ' switch, that I use alot.. the 220nF caps might be a key ingredient for the circuit..

goodluck,
Thijs

PS
I would love to build a Pink Flesh... is that OK with Skreddy? Someone has a circuit?
To make a Pink Flesh workalike, the short version (there may be more to it than this, such as the signature hard-to-find transistors, but use your ears) is to substitute a 10uf for the input cap and tune the tone stack to "flat/midrange hump" instead of "scoop/flat." Which basically means you'll want to use .0047uf caps on both the highpass and lowpass sides and then switch in an extra .0047uf on the highpass side for the "hump" version. And also increase the size of the cap "Cx" that's always in play in parallel with the tone stack to smooth out the fizz (220pf - 470pf or use your ears, as this depends on lots of factors like the type of transistors and capacitors you use, etc.).

Also add a 100R resistor after the power-polarity diode Dx (schottky or germanium) to increase the effectiveness of the power-supply filter cap C15.

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Post by tschrama »

Waooww, awnsered by the man him self! Thanks for the hints! You're a great guy and I am very impressed things you have made. You remind me of Nelson Pass, a HiFi guy roaming around at http://www.diyaudio.com.. take it as a compliment, you have similar traits as him.. good ears and a clear vision that reflects in his designs..

I wil surely make a 'pinkish muff' version this week..!

Many greetings from The Netherlands,
Thijs
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Post by Skreddy »

tschrama wrote:Waooww, awnsered by the man him self! Thanks for the hints! You're a great guy and I am very impressed things you have made. You remind me of Nelson Pass, a HiFi guy roaming around at http://www.diyaudio.com.. take it as a compliment, you have similar traits as him.. good ears and a clear vision that reflects in his designs..

I wil surely make a 'pinkish muff' version this week..!

Many greetings from The Netherlands,
Thijs
Thanks. Oh I thought of one more thing to "pink" a Mayo. You may have to restrict the low end a bit. So if there's too much thump, instead of feeding the output stage with a .1uf cap from the tone stack, try a .068uf.

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Post by tschrama »

thanks! I was wondering about tthe LowPass filter.. I think we could also add a cap around the collector resistor of the output stage.. as a fixed fizzz-filter....

Can I post a schematic... could I send it to you?

Chrzz,
Thijs
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Post by mattpas »

If I have some 2N5133s should I use four closely matched or are there spcific places to put lower gain and higher gains?

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Post by Skreddy »

tschrama wrote:thanks! I was wondering about tthe LowPass filter.. I think we could also add a cap around the collector resistor of the output stage.. as a fixed fizzz-filter....

Can I post a schematic... could I send it to you?

Chrzz,
Thijs
Unless you have way too much fizz, I wouldn't use a feedback type filter on the output stage. A small cap to ground is something I've done though.

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Post by Skreddy »

mattpas wrote:If I have some 2N5133s should I use four closely matched or are there spcific places to put lower gain and higher gains?
Lowest noise go first, use ears for gains locations (try socketing the transistors).

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Post by Skreddy »

Y'all might also want to check out BuildYourOwnClone.com's so-called "triangle knob" version. It uses resistor values that reduce the overall gain in each stage, which is a good idea if you only have modern-type transistors available to try and cop a vintage Big Muff tone.

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Post by mattpas »

Skreddy wrote:
mattpas wrote:If I have some 2N5133s should I use four closely matched or are there spcific places to put lower gain and higher gains?
Lowest noise go first, use ears for gains locations (try socketing the transistors).
What efh do you recommend for the Q1?

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Post by Skreddy »

mattpas wrote:
Skreddy wrote:
mattpas wrote:If I have some 2N5133s should I use four closely matched or are there spcific places to put lower gain and higher gains?
Lowest noise go first, use ears for gains locations (try socketing the transistors).
What efh do you recommend for the Q1?
Hfe? Depends on the transistor. I think about 500-600 is a good range for some types. Just depends, though.

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Post by mattpas »

Skreddy wrote:
mattpas wrote:
Skreddy wrote:
mattpas wrote:If I have some 2N5133s should I use four closely matched or are there spcific places to put lower gain and higher gains?
Lowest noise go first, use ears for gains locations (try socketing the transistors).
What efh do you recommend for the Q1?
Hfe? Depends on the transistor. I think about 500-600 is a good range for some types. Just depends, though.
Thanks Marc, I meant Hfe.

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Post by tschrama »

Hi all, hi Skreddy,

So....starting late last night, returning this morning, up in to the afternoon, I finaly finished my DIY 'pinked' Mayo... The unit is combined with my DIY-Mayo in a metal chcolate=box.. and looks nice :D First impressions are very good.. very inspiering sound.. I am totally amazed that such subtle changes make such a large difference.. I am now also reminded about how a project allways take much more effort that I imagined... lots of wires, soldering, mistakes, pfffff my back and eyes hurt from the hours behind the hobby table..

anyways, here goes...

I used MPSA18 trannies (Hfe 850), AllenBradely carbon resistors, and a mix of ceramic and other modern capacitors. I definitely got that ' Woody' sound coming out of the unit that I recognize from the PinkFlesh youtube-vids 8) .. great for solo's .. I still think I have a bit to much bass, even using 56nF cap to the last stage..

I also installed a scoop/flat/boost switch, using a double-pole , three position switch.. I think that it makes the unit alot more versatile as I can use it now also for Smashing Pumpkins stuff.... but I don't get that 'Wall of fuzz' kind of sound like my DIY-Mayo can give me.

next I would like to try different trannies

:thumbsup Thanks Skreddy for you tips!
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Post by Skreddy »

Also more gut shots in this auction (grab 'em before they go away?)...
https://cgi.ebay.com/Skreddy-PINK-FLESH- ... 286.c0.m14

Emailed to seller:

"The only diode difference is the one diode that prevents reverse polarity on the power--no tone effect. The transistor difference is the output transistor which operates in the clean range and doesn't contribute much to the sound, though it can be said that a BC109C has a pleasingly vintage voice as do the 2N5133's--but yes, slightly different. The capacitors are virtually identical; the difference being #16 has film caps in the distortion-feedback sections and #200 uses ceramics there."

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Post by 95strat »

Did I miss it or did no one make a pcb or a perf version? Not a big fan of vero.

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