JRM wrote:I might do the Galaxie mod to my BD-2. I liked what I've heatd on youtube and I agree that if you really want to change the pedal you've got to change (at least) the values of the components. Just upgrade components might reduce noise issues (GE-7 is a great example) or give some small improvements but don't change the sound.
I think there's definitely merit to using "upgraded" components for means of noise reduction and such, but the purpose of an overdrive is to add clipping. I think a lot of people get too anal about background noise, much of which is masked unless you are playing in your bedroom. Or people are intently listening to the background noise, because we've been sold on the issue that it's a problem. It's a fabricated problem.
There have been tests done on the negligible effect of distortion from capacitors or resistors, and how again, with a device intended to create clipping, that hearing those effects is what I refer to as being like seeing single snowflakes in a blizzard. Maybe you can catch one here or there, but so what?
I honestly don't know what would actually need "upgrading" in the BD-2 with just component swaps that are part-for-part the same values. Boss went with very good jFETs for it. The op amp stage is simply a post-volume mild bass boost. It doesn't have a wacked out Q or it would stick out like a sore thumb. For that reason alone, what is the need to replace the op amp? General purpose for this application is okay.
I can also honestly say that I've used all sorts of general purpose components in the BD-2 and haven't heard any performance differences. I've installed the Galaxie Mod using just the original types of Boss caps, or similar mylar types, and have also used ceramics similar to what Boss used, or have used those little multilayer jobs without issues. I've A/B'ed them with cheap/upgraded/mixed and hear no audible differences.
The BD-2 has a mostly crammed up PCB. I think it makes more sense to use components that will fit without problems. The box caps or metal film types are good simply because they have 5mm spacing that allows them to drop right in. But that said, there are cheaper alternatives that usually have 5mm spacing. The BD-2 also uses 1/8-watt resistors. There's no point in replacing them with 1/4-watt (unless that's all you have), since a chain is only as strong as its weakest link. You'd have to install them like they are done in a Tube Screamer, which means there's the possibility for something to short out or make contact where it shouldn't.
There's also a pair of ribbon cables in the BD-2 that I frequently see that someone has damaged. I think it most commonly happens when they are trying to sub out the op amp, or shotgun out all the electrolytic caps, because most of them are packed in that end of the PCB.
If someone wants to replace parts just for grins, I don't have a problem with that. Some people find it to be a good way to pass the time, I guess. I'd rather just focus on changing things that are going to have what is (hopefully) a positive AUDIBLE impact, and do no more or less.
