freestompboxes.org

The schematic is wrong:
There is a 100 Ohm resistor (R 31) between pin 8 of the LM1894 and the connection C12/CX. CX is numbered C27.

analogguru

analogguru wrote:The schematic is wrong:
There is a 100 Ohm resistor (R 31) between pin 8 of the LM1894 and the connection C12/CX. CX is numbered C27.

analogguru

I am really sorry AG but this is not the case.
Between 8 and 9 is only a C and that's C12. CX is, as mentioned on the bottom of the schem, mounted on the copper side. Therefore it does not have a component number.

Dirk_Hendrik wrote:

analogguru wrote:The schematic is wrong:
There is a 100 Ohm resistor (R 31) between pin 8 of the LM1894 and the connection C12/CX. CX is numbered C27.

analogguru

I am really sorry AG but this is not the case.
Between 8 and 9 is only a C and that's C12. CX is, as mentioned on the bottom of the schem, mounted on the copper side. Therefore it does not have a component number.

So what does this mean ? That it is really not the case, or that Dirk is a beta-tester ?
I am really sorry, but.....

analogguru

The datasheet mentions this 100R resistor as only required in FM applications. Different revisions of the PCB then?

It means I need:
a) to remove R36. That's definitely an error.
b) I need to take a photo of exactly the same location to prove both AG and me are correct and are, apparently, dealing with different PCB versions.

Lousy light for photo's...







Board:
PCB-NB-0101A

I believe that.....

But yours is older - chip: 8724
mine - chip: 8748

analogguru

analogguru wrote:I believe that.....

I assume this is the most spontanious way of AG saying we're both right

Got that out of the way.
Do the pics you posted earlier todal come from larger images that 1) show the PCB version and 2) show that the connection to D3 was screwed (in the PCB layout) and fixed with a piece of wire??

Dirk_Hendrik wrote:

analogguru wrote:I believe that.....

I assume this is the most spontanious way of AG saying we're both right

No.... because I am sure when I argue that you will have controlled it before you answer

Dirk_Hendrik wrote: Do the pics you posted earlier todal come from larger images.....

No, they were taken extra for you. To do that I had to move away more than 100 pedals before. And than I put it back and the other pedals too.

DirkHendrik wrote:

.... that 1) show the PCB version and 2) show that the connection to D3 was screwed (in the PCB layout) and fixed with a piece of wire??

Dirk costs worthful time of my life. To answer this question I had to move away the pedals again, take the pictures below and put everything back..... But what I don´t do all for Dirk...

enjoy the guts of a virgin NB10 (never connected to a battery).

analogguru

Which shows yours is indeed a later PCB revision and is younger. That in turn means mine is older and therefore must sound much better.

Thanks AG!

No, yours is a prototype ("A" like alpha) and you are a beta-tester
You can recognize this on the box - prototypes never come with a box. Do you have one ?

above added a picture of the outside.

analogguru

Prototypes need to be boxed as well. Prototypes don't need a manual though since they're sent to real users who know their stuff. Contrarily consumer ready pedals do need a manual to cope with user stupidity. Therefore I'm fairly certain your box contains the manual as well... to help you to be able to connect the thing.

lolbou wrote:Courtesy of Dirk_Hendrik...

Schematic

IC3 must be LM1894, not LM1849, as stated in the schem, no?

Thanks OC!

harharhar...!!!

it's like unstoppable stubborness vs. the immovable curmudgeon!

i've scanned this thread but can't find the guts shots. I have a few lm1894 chips and would love to do this so i was hoping to find a pic of the track side of the pedal so i could clone it and etch one for myself. Any one got a pic of the track side of the nb10 would be much appreciated cheers. Great work Dirk you make outstanding schematics iam not worthy

just looking this over myself .. seems like a doable board so nutting out if I can manage it. I'm guessing the fact that the schem mentions 'bypass' and 'effect on' 'effect off' that it's got a millennium bypass inbuilt? if so, what do I need to drop from the schem in order to buld it as tbp?
do I simply short the drain of the first jfet to the source and eliminate all the rest of that part of the cct (to the left of it) or is it more complex that that?

i personally would bypass those two fets and use the millenium plus bypass so you have true bypass. What dirk has done there is draw a true schematic for the ibanez nb10 pedal. Ibanez don't use true bypass they use fets as the pass through mode so when one is on for the circuit signal the other is off for the bypass and vise a versa. so the best way is to get rid of the those two fets and implement the millenium bypass then you have the beauty of the ibanez pedals as there great creatures and true bypass to go with it so essentially you have created in some senses a better pedal than the original. Hope what i've said helps feel free to ask any questions

thanks, but I'm such a n00b, I have no idea what that means...
I might need to see it in a schematic.. so may just drop this project unless someone smarter than I can amend the drawing for me