Mid-Fi Electronics - Pitch Pirate - Guts, Schematic [traced]
Hey all, Andy Hooper here. Looking at elrengofa's layout and schematic, it looks great and easy to etch and populate. Yet I believe there is a mistake. In his schematic in the part where doug has SW for the lfo connections and indicator LED, meaning they all go to the 3pdt, el rengofa has placed 9v. So, if I'm not mistaken, all those LFO points are going to 9v in the layout. It's easy to correct just using paint. I'll try it and let you guys know. Greetings form Paraguay.
I think there's a little mistake in the vero layout at page 9.
The R16 resistor (22k) doesn't seem to be in the original schematic, and can be removed.
The R16 resistor (22k) doesn't seem to be in the original schematic, and can be removed.
Can you double check the lfo section. I made the vero layout and have built it and only the delay is working right now. Im triple checking my layout to your schematic and I'm not seeing any problems. The LED is on but not fluctuating at all.
Last edited by OnTheTundra on 28 Dec 2013, 20:42, edited 1 time in total.
It is now verified and working. I mistakenly ran a ground wire from the pots to the second to last row on the left and that made my LFO not work. TOok that out and now its good to go.
- Nocentelli
- Tube Twister
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Thanks again for the deluxe schematic and vero, I have a quick question: How loud is the LFO ticking on the original pedal and DIY versions? I have it on the breadboard now (it sounds superb) and the LFO ticking is quite loud. Having pulled the LEDs (both vactrol and indicator LEDs), it seems to be from the 47uF discharging from the LFO output. What is more, the ticking has bled into the delay circuit and each click gets delayed too. Here is a video so you can judge how bad it is:
I'm wondering whether it is just crosstalk between wires, and if I do a layout with a "sewer ground" for that electro cap that is separate to all the audio grounds it will help reduce it to tolerable levels.
I'm wondering whether it is just crosstalk between wires, and if I do a layout with a "sewer ground" for that electro cap that is separate to all the audio grounds it will help reduce it to tolerable levels.
modman wrote: ↑ Let's hope it's not a hit, because soldering up the same pedal everyday, is a sad life. It's that same ole devilish double bind again...
The delay itself is fairly noisey. I've found this to be true on the actual pedal and the vero. I haven't had any lfo ticking issues like you are having on either.
Oh, yeah your LFO ticking is really really loud compared to the pedal.Nocentelli wrote:Thanks again for the deluxe schematic and vero, I have a quick question: How loud is the LFO ticking on the original pedal and DIY versions? I have it on the breadboard now (it sounds superb) and the LFO ticking is quite loud. Having pulled the LEDs (both vactrol and indicator LEDs), it seems to be from the 47uF discharging from the LFO output. What is more, the ticking has bled into the delay circuit and each click gets delayed too. Here is a video so you can judge how bad it is:
I'm wondering whether it is just crosstalk between wires, and if I do a layout with a "sewer ground" for that electro cap that is separate to all the audio grounds it will help reduce it to tolerable levels.
I'm totally new to this, so I'm sorry if I haven't got any suggestions. I do here people really complain about the loudness of the ticking on their pitch pirates, its not really a big deal on mine. Its a subtle noise, not not as loud as your's in the video.
- doug deeper
- Breadboard Brother
Wiring/layout is key in killing the ticking.
Also, the Input trimmer should be 1M.
This is also an older version, the newer version uses a single pot for blend, along with a few other changes.
Also, the Input trimmer should be 1M.
This is also an older version, the newer version uses a single pot for blend, along with a few other changes.
1M... hmmm okaydoug deeper wrote:Wiring/layout is key in killing the ticking.
Also, the Input trimmer should be 1M.
This is also an older version, the newer version uses a single pot for blend, along with a few other changes.
Yeah the ticking on my clone is not there at all and my clone is the shittest sloppiest job ever. I purchased this the first day you released it, part the first ten to go out, cool that the new are a bit different. Its awesome delay, thanks for the circut
- Beedoola
- Resistor Ronker
I've built a few vibratos using the PP circuit minus the LFO. I'm really not a fan of the LM386 as it has a low headroom and clips easy/doesn't sound that good to me.
Any suggestions on an IC (or transistor) to replace it with to go into the PT2399? I know it would require rewiring the input, or whats around IC 1 (the LM386).
Any suggestions on an IC (or transistor) to replace it with to go into the PT2399? I know it would require rewiring the input, or whats around IC 1 (the LM386).
- doug deeper
- Breadboard Brother
You can just use an opamp buffer, but you'll have to tweak the resistor values on the pt2399s input.
Hey Guys,
I'm a bit new to this forum, but have been on Madbean for a while! So cheers to all of you. I completed this build using the ungod etch mask; I seem to be having similar issues to those experienced by others. My LED only lights when the 1mb pot is at max. Also, I am unclear on how I would wire the SW and LFO pads when hooked up to a breadboard for testing purposes. I assume the LFO ground would just go to ground, and it seems like the SW pad is to ground the LED when the pedal is bypassed. My main issue appears to be no flashing LED, but I have also noticed that C7 and C8 are running pretty hot when power is applied. Any suggestions or thoughts? Thanks in advance.
I'm a bit new to this forum, but have been on Madbean for a while! So cheers to all of you. I completed this build using the ungod etch mask; I seem to be having similar issues to those experienced by others. My LED only lights when the 1mb pot is at max. Also, I am unclear on how I would wire the SW and LFO pads when hooked up to a breadboard for testing purposes. I assume the LFO ground would just go to ground, and it seems like the SW pad is to ground the LED when the pedal is bypassed. My main issue appears to be no flashing LED, but I have also noticed that C7 and C8 are running pretty hot when power is applied. Any suggestions or thoughts? Thanks in advance.
I have a few questions about this vero layout. Ive never seen one like this so forgive me for not understanding 100%. Now, I used photoshop to ask whats confusing, its easier that way. Just unsure about a few cuts. And to be positive on this, the trimmer is infact a 1m not a 100k, correct? And has anyone done a vero with a single gang FB pot? I dont have a 50k DG but I have a 20k DG and a 100k DG pot, could I use any of those in place for the 50k or will it be a huge differece? Thanks guys.
Doug, keep up the amazing work. I love your stuff!
- storyboardist
- Breadboard Brother
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Ok, after looking at the schematic and the layout above by storyboardist, I build the vero layout but im having a few issues. I get bypass signal but when I engage the circuit I get nothing. The led doesnt even come on. When i hooked up the audio probe I probed the input trimmer and nothing. Any advice?
WOW! is this an invisible thread? lol. Ok well, I Went ahead and built storyboardists layout on perf and I'm still getting nothing. Same issues as the vero I did. Does anyone know what the voltages are suppose to be or does someone have a finished build that would share some pictures with me?