Mid-Fi Electronics - Pitch Pirate - Guts, Schematic  [traced]

General documentation, gut shot, schematic links, ongoing circuit tracing, deep thoughts ... all about boutique stompboxes.
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grrrunge
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Post by grrrunge »

Swap it. You might have damaged it. Maybe someone else knows better than me on the subject, but that's what i'd try first...
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space2001odyssey
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Post by space2001odyssey »

roseblood11 wrote:Could someone post a verified schematic for the Deluxe version, please?

I'll draw a vero layout...
+1

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spburns
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Post by spburns »

space2001odyssey wrote:
roseblood11 wrote:Could someone post a verified schematic for the Deluxe version, please?

I'll draw a vero layout...
+1

+2

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hangingmonkey
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Post by hangingmonkey »

abakuzam wrote:i made the ungod's layout but i couldnt get it to work, led doesnt light up and my regulator output is 3.6v? And how to conect to lfo gnd? i just soldered in output jack sleeve.

Thanks.
I did the ungodfx layout and it worked fine.
I couldnt get the led to light up but then i realised i had the led wired the wrong way round, the square pad is the flat side of the led. Once i switched it, it worked fine.

I connected the lfo gnd to the switched led gnd and the sw pad to gnd

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Post by hangingmonkey »

Oops, I meant to say:

I connected the lfo gnd to gnd and the sw pad to the switched led to gnd

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changoman
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Post by changoman »

hangingmonkey wrote:Oops, I meant to say:

I connected the lfo gnd to gnd and the sw pad to the switched led to gnd

Hi from Spain and thank you all (specially Doug) for the threat and info. I own an original clari not and love mid-fi sounds.

I´m building a pitch pirate. Yesterday I had the same problem with led and Ungod´s layout. Led doesn´t light.

Is it a layout mistake? Should I change the led polarity (led anode to round pad and led cathode - to square pad? So, the SW pad goes to square led pad in the layout?

Thank you very much in advance

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changoman
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Post by changoman »

changoman wrote:
hangingmonkey wrote:Oops, I meant to say:

I connected the lfo gnd to gnd and the sw pad to the switched led to gnd

Hi from Spain and thank you all (specially Doug) for the threat and info. I own an original clari not and love mid-fi sounds.

I´m building a pitch pirate. Yesterday I had the same problem with led and Ungod´s layout. Led doesn´t light.

Is it a layout mistake? Should I change the led polarity (led anode to round pad and led cathode - to square pad? So, the SW pad goes to square led pad in the layout?

Thank you very much in advance
Ok. Problem resolved. Ungod´s layout is wrong. Square pad is negative for D2 (led) and round pad is positive. SW pad goes to negative of the ON/OFF led.
Now, I´m thinking about control the speed adding a CV jack. My setup (pedalsync master control) sends a 3,3V CV. I think it isn´t enough to trigger the led (superbright 6v to 12v). Anyone has tried it. I have found this IC (http://cds.linear.com/docs/en/datasheet/1073fa.pdf)

Thank you all again. Thank you Dough.

Image
Image
Image

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space2001odyssey
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Post by space2001odyssey »

Has anyone come up with a schematic for the deluxe version yet? Or could id the pot values if possible?
Thanks!

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Post by ShortScaleMike »

Built one of these up from the vero layout a page back - I used a bright blue led, a 5mm LDR and a 20k depth pot


Definitely seems a lot more tame than the original in terms of mod depth - a 50k depth pot doesn't seem to fix this - what should I try next? A white led? Any resistor or component subs?

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Post by tightpants »

ShortScaleMike wrote:Built one of these up from the vero layout a page back - I used a bright blue led, a 5mm LDR and a 20k depth pot


Definitely seems a lot more tame than the original in terms of mod depth - a 50k depth pot doesn't seem to fix this - what should I try next? A white led? Any resistor or component subs?
Hi Mike, I built this initially with a bright white led. I found that the effect was too strong for me so I switched to a blue but it sounds like a white led would do the trick for you. Worth a try anyway :D
Cheers,
Pat

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Post by rasta_maleek »

ShortScaleMike wrote:Built one of these up from the vero layout a page back - I used a bright blue led, a 5mm LDR and a 20k depth pot


Definitely seems a lot more tame than the original in terms of mod depth - a 50k depth pot doesn't seem to fix this - what should I try next? A white led? Any resistor or component subs?
i mike, i think that you may use a red led, its that i use in my build and works ok

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Post by ShortScaleMike »

Thanks guys - will try Both and report back

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Post by ShortScaleMike »

Thanks for the help guys, turned out to be a misplaced resistor so the Depth pot was not in circuit. Fixed that and Wham - nutso.

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Post by rasta_maleek »

Mike, What about the led? What color did you use?

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Post by ShortScaleMike »

I tried a normal red and bright blue and hire and had the same effect with each
Maybe my ldr is nice and sensitive

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Post by Moustache_Bash »

Sorry if we've been through this, but is there a point to the D1 diode?

If I'm reading the schematic correctly, it doesn't really make sense (to me) why it would be there when there is 9V applied again right on the other side of the diode....

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Post by Beedoola »

Moustache_Bash wrote:Sorry if we've been through this, but is there a point to the D1 diode?

If I'm reading the schematic correctly, it doesn't really make sense (to me) why it would be there when there is 9V applied again right on the other side of the diode....
to protect against voltage spikes or the wrong power supplies...???

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Post by Moustache_Bash »

That would make sense to me, if it wasn't for the 9V connection AFTER the diode connected to the voltage regulator and cap.
Image

I think there's something I don't understand about electronics/schematics....

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Post by DaveKerr »

Moustache_Bash wrote:That would make sense to me, if it wasn't for the 9V connection AFTER the diode connected to the voltage regulator and cap.
[ Image ]

I think there's something I don't understand about electronics/schematics....
Just think of it as a way to not have to draw the connection between the point marked +9V after the diode to the points marked +9v on the TL072 and LM586 - it makes the schematic more readable.
... multiple LFO waveforms (saw up, saw down, triangle, square); a more flexible envelope with attack/release controls as well as inverted envelope. I am afraid it will have more knobs than the TGP annual convention - frequencycentral

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Post by Moustache_Bash »

DaveKerr wrote:
Moustache_Bash wrote:That would make sense to me, if it wasn't for the 9V connection AFTER the diode connected to the voltage regulator and cap.
[ Image ]

I think there's something I don't understand about electronics/schematics....
Just think of it as a way to not have to draw the connection between the point marked +9V after the diode to the points marked +9v on the TL072 and LM586 - it makes the schematic more readable.
I get it now! :hug:

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