Colorsound - Power Boost / Overdriver

Discussion regarding early stompbox technology: 1960-1975 Please keep discussion focused and contribute what info you have...
sinner
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Post by sinner »

Fixed, thanks again.

I'll do the versions with your modifications as soon as I get chance :hug:

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Post by monkeyxx »

oops one more thing (sorry for the late notice) lugs 1 and 3 of the bass pots are backwards in all these layouts too. thanks for all your great layout work I'm looking hard at the Fuzz Sounds right now

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Post by sinner »

Ok, I'm on it.

Monkeyxx - are those modes yours? can I use them on my website?

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Post by monkeyxx »

I just copied those mods from the Colorsound reissues that you can currently buy from Macaris Music

the master volume lets you get overdrive at much lower volumes (and sounds great I might add), and the gain/vol pot taper allows a better sweep for that kind of use... I think they are useful modifications, you can always leave the master on full up if you want to use it in the old fashioned way

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Post by sinner »

:popcorn:

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Post by monkeyxx »

haha! I'm very flattered, thank you. PS this is a wonderful circuit, not at all like a tube screamer, pretty unique booster/drive compared to anything I can think of. I always seem to like the Colorsound vibe

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Post by monkeyxx »

hey sinner I believe the Overdriver should run at 9V with a single battery, if I'm not mistaken

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Post by mictester »

monkeyxx wrote:hey sinner I believe the Overdriver should run at 9V with a single battery, if I'm not mistaken
There were several versions - some ran at 9V and others at 18V. The higher voltage types provided much more headroom, and much less distortion. It's quite easy to make a Vero version and make the components that you want to tweak easily accessible - experiment, and see the range of sounds you can get, and try the differing supplies. Here's a hint - look at the frequency-determining components in the Baxandall Tone Control, and see what useful changes you can make to work better with the frequency response of a guitar or bass. There's a wide range of modifications that can be done to this circuit, and most of them will be useful in some way!
"Why is it humming?" "Because it doesn't know the words!"

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Post by sinner »

mictester wrote:There's a wide range of modifications that can be done to this circuit, and most of them will be useful in some way!

Bring it on! :thumbsup

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Electric Warrior
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Post by Electric Warrior »

mictester wrote:
monkeyxx wrote:hey sinner I believe the Overdriver should run at 9V with a single battery, if I'm not mistaken
There were several versions - some ran at 9V and others at 18V. The higher voltage types provided much more headroom, and much less distortion. It's quite easy to make a Vero version and make the components that you want to tweak easily accessible - experiment, and see the range of sounds you can get, and try the differing supplies. Here's a hint - look at the frequency-determining components in the Baxandall Tone Control, and see what useful changes you can make to work better with the frequency response of a guitar or bass. There's a wide range of modifications that can be done to this circuit, and most of them will be useful in some way!

But he wrote 18V under the 9V version of the circuit.

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Post by sinner »

[smilie=dancing_cow.gif]

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Post by registracii »

that is a great thread - thanks to all that contributed in it.
I will be attempting to build the 18v one. already ordered the parts (or at least what I think are the parts - absolute beginner so not even sure I got the correct ones)

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Post by guitarmongot »

It´s a great pedal : but I recommend that you use the Master Volume version:
this pedal is really LOUD in front of a tube amp if you
dial in that nice fuzziness after 3óclock on Gain knob... :D .
/cheers M

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Post by Huub2O »

Hi guys,

I've read this whole thread 'cause I was planning to build a Power Boost too. I've done quite some research and I think I'm gonna do monkeyxx's layout, because that one seems most similar to the real old one, except for that it's not on a vboard, but that doesn't matter in tone, right? My goal is to make a clone, and then start modifying it for me. Also, if I'm going to do it, is this the right kind of board, 'cause I'm not familiar with vboards: http://www.newtone-online.nl/catalog/pr ... ts_id=1138 (I'm Dutch).

Thanks for helping!

Huub.

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Post by Huub2O »

Huub2O wrote:Hi guys,

I've read this whole thread 'cause I was planning to build a Power Boost too. I've done quite some research and I think I'm gonna do monkeyxx's layout, because that one seems most similar to the real old one, except for that it's not on a vboard, but that doesn't matter in tone, right? My goal is to make a clone, and then start modifying it for me. Also, if I'm going to do it, is this the right kind of board, 'cause I'm not familiar with vboards: http://www.newtone-online.nl/catalog/pr ... ts_id=1138 (I'm Dutch).

Thanks for helping!

Huub.
oops sorry, I changed my mind, I am gonna go with electricwarrior's schematic because I'm more familiar with a normal board, and it's more similar to the old one so I can modify it easier! has anyone a pcb layout because I can't draw one :)

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Post by Electric Warrior »


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Post by skumberg »

Sinner: That last vero seems to short out q2 collector on full drive.

I have never liked the distortion produced by my overdriver clone. Yes the clean tone is nice with a lot of boost, and there is the fuzzy tones at max gain but the in between tones sound crappy in my build like something is biased wrong. But the voltages are ok. I'm going to fiddle with the collector resistor and see what happens.

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Post by sinner »

According to schemo on page 6 it's fine
Cheers

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Electric Warrior
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Post by Electric Warrior »

No. The dots are connections. Lines crossing aren't.

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Post by beedotman »

does anybody have pcb copper trace shots of original units?

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