Baja B K Butler Tube Driver

DrNomis · Post by **DrNomis** » 10 Nov 2012, 06:06

For the 10 to 33 Ohm current limiting resistor for the heater supply for the 12AX7 Tube/Valve you can use a 5 Watt Ceramic Wire-Wound type, if you use a 1/4 Watt for the current limiting resistor for the heater supply, the resistor will get very hot and burn out.....

bajaman · Post by **bajaman** » 10 Nov 2012, 08:33

you sure you are not confusing this with another thread ?

bajaman

DrNomis · Post by **DrNomis** » 10 Nov 2012, 08:58

Doh!!!!....I thought it was the Baja Real Tube Drive thread Bajaman......

See, I have been known to make embarassing mistakes from time to time, thanks for pointing that out to me mate.....

bajaman · Post by **bajaman** » 10 Nov 2012, 09:42

I thought so

shredder · Post by **shredder** » 11 Nov 2012, 00:38

Thanks for the quick reply, I put a 1/4 watts on the side of the supply and the 470 uf caps blown out and all the parts already messed up like resistors and diodes.

B3ar · Post by **B3ar** » 12 Nov 2012, 05:11

Maybe off topic, but kind of interesting to throw out there: MXR/Dunlop is apparently working on a non-tube Tube Driver for Bonamassa.
http://acapella.harmony-central.com/sho ... -Prototype
TGP reportedly has more discussion and was the source, but I don't know if that's worth wading through.

bajaman · Post by **bajaman** » 12 Nov 2012, 08:28

shredder · Post by **shredder** » 13 Nov 2012, 03:14

sir baja, what would be the connection of the transformer to the pcb board, if i'm using a 12-0-12 vac transformer. I have inserted an image for your basis, except that the image indicates a 25-0-25 volts. thanks.

fakcior · Post by **fakcior** » 20 Nov 2012, 19:29

Is it normal, when drive knob is at 0 the signal is cut?

shredder · Post by **shredder** » 23 Nov 2012, 09:05

Sir Baja, I need your help. I have attached a picture for you to see if I am on the right path to this project.

DrNomis · Post by **DrNomis** » 23 Nov 2012, 09:29

It's possible that you might have had that cap incorrectly orientated when you soldered it in place on the PCB......

shredder · Post by **shredder** » 26 Nov 2012, 03:52

DrNomis, thanks for you help. the orientation of the parts are correct. I found out that the capacitor voltage is 16v instead of 25v.

I have one more question, does this tube driver uses 12v or 24v? Am I using a correct power supply (12-0-12 both are +12v=24v when you test it on a multi-tester) which shown on my previous post. thanks in advance.

modmod · Post by **modmod** » 26 Nov 2012, 05:00

hello shredder,are u from the Manila?I think the heater is only 12-12.6 volts.You only need 12 and 0 to produce 12volts AC.Use 8pin ic socket to choose from different op amp ic.

shredder · Post by **shredder** » 26 Nov 2012, 09:14

yes sir, I am from manila. So all that I need to connect from power supply is 0 and 12. How about supply going to the board? is there a polarity issues? or it can be interchanged?

modmod · Post by **modmod** » 27 Nov 2012, 11:00

AC don't have polarity.Just be carefull to your electrolytic caps polarity.I didnt build this Baja BK tube driver project but I build Baja Real Tube Driver and its successfull. All parts came from DEECO Quipo, including 12AX. I think this project is similar to Baja Real Tube Driver. If you have problem with this project I can help you or you can meet me at Quipo when I have spare time. You can test my Baja Real Tube Driver.

DrNomis · Post by **DrNomis** » 27 Nov 2012, 11:38

shredder wrote:DrNomis, thanks for you help. the orientation of the parts are correct. I found out that the capacitor voltage is 16v instead of 25v. I have one more question, does this tube driver uses 12v or 24v? Am I using a correct power supply (12-0-12 both are +12v=24v when you test it on a multi-tester) which shown on my previous post. thanks in advance.

The power supply section of the Tube Driver creates +12V and -12V from an AC plugpack, the plugpack needs to be rated for at least 12V AC at 500mA, a 12 VAC/1A plugpack will work fine, the op-amp circuit actually runs off +15V and -15V and the Tube circuit runs off +12V and -12V this is due to the two 10k resistors between the op-amp circuit and Tube circuit, you are correct about the Tube Circuit running at 24V because the cathodes (pins 3 and

are connected directly to the -12V supply, and the anodes/plates (pins 1 and 6) are connected to the +12V supply via the two 47k resistors (some Tube Driver schematics have them as 68k resistors).....

modmod · Post by **modmod** » 27 Nov 2012, 12:05

shredder wrote:yes sir, I am from manila. So all that I need to connect from power supply is 0 and 12. How about supply going to the board? is there a polarity issues? or it can be interchanged?

Sorry, I didnt notice the schematic earlier.Based on schematic you will use 12-0-12 pin in the transformer.0 pin is ground.

lutor · Post by **lutor** » 01 Dec 2012, 08:09

I wanted to have something more of an overdrive, that you can use for other musical genres who need a distortion more boost. I know, someone may think that I changed the idea of building "overdrive" but now with the right adjustments on the tonestack and volume you may have really much more from this historic overdrive. For all those who want to try my mod, here will find the schematic.
Best regard.

lutor · Post by **lutor** » 01 Dec 2012, 08:23

The layout used:

lutor · Post by **lutor** » 02 Dec 2012, 23:14

I'm sorry, but before I posted my previous review. This is the final diagram:

Baja B K Butler Tube Driver [documentation]