freestompboxes.org

Ok, I changed all of the privacy settings, hopefully that will do it!

And one more thing, I am using an AC 12V supply, not and AC/DC power supply. If this runs on an AC 16v adapter that may be where the problem is, however, laying my hands on a 16V AC adapter is not something you can readily find at the electronics shack.

my mistake - this pedal does use a 12 AC adaptor

I think I see where your problem is, looking at the pics it looks like you're trying to power it with a DC plugpack when you should be using an AC plugpack, an AC plugpack takes the mains supply and transforms it down to a safe voltage, on the other hand a DC plugpack has extra circuitry that takes the lower AC and converts it to DC, the BK Butler Tube Driver circuit already has the AC to DC conversion circuitry so you need to use a plugpack adaptor that puts out AC, I've sucessfully used a 16V/1.25 A AC plugpack adaptor to power my build.......


What you are using in the pics is a Regulated DC plugpack, not an AC plugpack......

Okay Dr. Nomis,
I posted a picture of the box that adapter came in on PHOTOBUCKET. I searched all over at several shops today, there is nothing in 16v. It goes straight to 18/24v. I think I get what you are saying but this is an AC plug pack, I think? I just want to make sure before I go buying another adapter that this is the wrong one, these things are expensive. The only other things that I saw were a bunch of AC/DC adapters. If you think it would be safe I will go up to the 18/24v one if you confirm that I do indeed have the right adapter. Thanks again, if it is something as simple as this and not the build itself I know I will sleep better

for this pedal you need an adaptor that puts out 12v AC NOT DC

oasisfan78 wrote:Okay Dr. Nomis,
I posted a picture of the box that adapter came in on PHOTOBUCKET. I searched all over at several shops today, there is nothing in 16v. It goes straight to 18/24v. I think I get what you are saying but this is an AC plug pack, I think? I just want to make sure before I go buying another adapter that this is the wrong one, these things are expensive. The only other things that I saw were a bunch of AC/DC adapters. If you think it would be safe I will go up to the 18/24v one if you confirm that I do indeed have the right adapter. Thanks again, if it is something as simple as this and not the build itself I know I will sleep better

It may be called an AC plugpack but it actually puts out DC rather than AC, you can tell that it puts out DC because of the multi-position Voltage-Selector switch, a plugpack which puts out AC will not have that switch......


The other thing you can try is to check to make sure you have the two power diodes in the correct way and that neither of them have gone faulty, you should be getting at least +17VDC on the + terminal of the first 470uF cap on the +V supply and about the same voltage on the - terminal of the first 470uF capacitor on the -V supply, if you're not getting those voltages then it suggests that either of the two power rectifier diodes has gone bad or one or both of the 470uF caps have gone short-circuit or there could be a PCB track break somewhere between the rectifier diodes and the two 470uF caps.....

I just looked at your photobucket pictures - it certainly looks like an AC voltage supply adaptor to me. One sure way to check it is to use a multimeter and see if it reads AC or DC voltage

OK Gentlemen,
Thank you both for the suggestions, so here are my results as follows.:

Bajaman,
It is definitely and AC adapter, I got 14.83v when I tested JUST the adapter. I did however get some voltages when I tested on the DC setting though.

Dr.Nomis,
I removed all four of the 470uf(25v and 16v) caps and put in fresh ones. I have also changed the diodes. I checked all of the tracks and it is good. There is no solder slop connecting things that shouldn't be. My readings were not what you posted as far as the 17v ones-not even REMOTELY close(I got.171 on the +and .000 on the-). I am going to try a different adapter. At this point I have nothing. I am going to probably try with a fresh board at this point because I am just at a loss if the adapter does not work.

Please do a resistance measurement between the V+ to GND and V- to GND nets (Use opamp pin 8 for v+ and pin 4 fro v-). What you have been describing over the last few days suggests a major shorcut somewhere. That in turn means you can use different adapters till you go blue but it will not solve the error.

also check that you have the opamp correctly orientated in the board !
Try removing the tube from it's socket and check that you have around +15v DC and -15v DC on pins 8 and 4 of the opamp too.
Let us know what voltages you find.
DO NOT throw the board away - it looks like a nice build - well done
We will get this working for you.

oasisfan78 wrote: OK Gentlemen,
Thank you both for the suggestions, so here are my results as follows.:

Bajaman,
It is definitely and AC adapter, I got 14.83v when I tested JUST the adapter. I did however get some voltages when I tested on the DC setting though.

Dr.Nomis,
I removed all four of the 470uf(25v and 16v) caps and put in fresh ones. I have also changed the diodes. I checked all of the tracks and it is good. There is no solder slop connecting things that shouldn't be. My readings were not what you posted as far as the 17v ones-not even REMOTELY close(I got.171 on the +and .000 on the-). I am going to try a different adapter. At this point I have nothing. I am going to probably try with a fresh board at this point because I am just at a loss if the adapter does not work.

That suggests to me that there's either a short-circuit across either or both those points where the 470uF caps solder onto the circuit board or there's a PCB track break between them and their respective rectifier diodes, you could also have a bad Op-Amp IC installed in the IC socket, also check the soldering on the pins of the IC socket in case there's an unwanted solder-bridge too, you might need a strong magnifying glass to give those solder joints a good look at.....

Thanks to you Gentlemen, I will get those items checked and post the results tomorrow!

Hello oasisfan78,

I think, you forgot the connection between the toplayer and the bottomlayer (red circles in the attachment)!
In the pictures of the original board it looks like an interlayer connection to me.

Kardnez

sharp!
So that may apply as well for that potmeter which has a conmnecting pad nest to this interconnect.

yes
there are also two interconnects under the tube socket as well
With home etched circuit boards you need to solder a piece of wire through the board to connect both sides properly. With commercially manufactured double layer boards there is a plated via connection between the layers. You will need to check all these interconnects between layers before going any further - just checked your bottom layer photo and yes there are several interconnects not soldered - you can carefully wire connecting links on the bottom of the board without having to take the tube socket out of the board.

After spending last night measuring low voltages I was so disparaged, this is great news! Ok, now the mystery of the extra holes is solved! I knew they must have been there for some reason! So, if I am to understand this correctly, I just need to join the top and bottoms together with a piece of conductive wire and and everything should be kosher, great...and there are quite a few of them, haha, there are ALOT of missed connections. Wow, I just made another board to start all over again too ! THANK YOU ALL!!!! for being so helpful, I really am overwhelmed to see all the help I have gotten. I will get to soldering and hopefully have an update. Kardnez, thank YOU immensely for catching that. I would have repeated the process over and over with the same effect, no pun intended wondering what the heck they were there for. Further going to prove, I have ALOT to learn about double sided boards!

Success!!! After filling in all the connections from the top to bottom tracks it worked perfectly! Thanks again, to ALL of you. All my voltages were on par w/ the ones that Dr. Nomis posted. And Baja, I am going to try your op-amp swaps to see if they make an improvement (I got two Burr-Browns). I am off to play the most challenging thing I have ever built and ENJOY it!

I mounted the pedal, and have confirmed everything a number of times.
It has a fantastic sound, but when turn on / off switch, does that POP noise, irritating...

is the typical sound that when we put a pull down resistor is resolved.
Have tried with another switch, but always the same

Came late to the party but really great work here bajaman! A little over my skill level but still really incredible work! Maybe one day i'll be able to build this bugger...