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back again
after finishing the project,I bought a 6-0-6 V AC transformer, 600mA ; I made all the connections to the board and "fired it up" but nothing happend-the power LED does not glow,which makes me think I got a problem in the rectifying ,DC conversion part; all the components were new....
Anybody got any help for me? I can post some pics of the board if that helps
Thanks!

dani_rosu5 wrote:back again
after finishing the project,I bought a 6-0-6 V AC transformer, 600mA ; I made all the connections to the board and "fired it up" but nothing happend-the power LED does not glow,which makes me think I got a problem in the rectifying ,DC conversion part; all the components were new....
Anybody got any help for me? I can post some pics of the board if that helps
Thanks!

A 6-0-6 V AC transformer won't put out enough voltage to run the Tube Driver circuit, you need a transformer rated at 12-0-12 V AC for it to work properly....

Mix of layout.

StratWiz wrote:I have measured signals & voltages on my genuine Butler TD911M (REV:3 091913) with BIAS. It has the BIAS and the rounded transformer. See attached PDF for measured signals, and for suggestion how to modify it to True-Bypass (stock is NOT true bypass).
Cheers,
SW

Hi Stratwiz

There is one part I am not clear about and was wandering if you would be
kind enough to explain?


The part for the red Input (added from disconnected Jack)
Does that mean you are removing the existing red wire on the input jack
(hot tip) and adding a new wire to the 3DPT switch as per the diagram?

If yes
Any other alterations? Do the rest of the wires remain as is from the
connector, as all wires go to the connector?

Much appreciated if you can let me know?
Or if anyone else has done this and might know?

Yes, I basically kept what preexisted (mid-stage/LED ground switch+output select switch), and added true-bypass to the input (by separating the red wire from the orange - which were originally connected via the PCB).
The part of the red input from the disconnected jack replaces in the switch the orange wire. The two used to be connected via the PCB to both the input and the FX input (these are the two inputs that I wanted to separate for achieving true-bypass in the inputs as well). After I disconnected the red-wire (jack input from the orange (FX input), I connected them via a 3rd switch pins (rather than via the PCB as before). This way, using the switch, the orange (FX input) is either connected to the input jack (red wire) or is disconnected from it and connected to the GND instead - for true bypass in the input.
This mod provided me better quality signal when the TD is bypassed.
Another comment, never put the TD (or other transformer or transformer based pedal) within 2-3 ft near Wah pedal, since the Wah is notorious of picking up transformer's magnetic field/noise.
Good luck,
SW

I removed the red wire from the PCB rather than from the jack. Then I connected the jack's red wire to the 3DPT switch as per diagram. This way the jack is connected to the switch via the red wire, and the FX input is connected to the switch via the orange wire. And the red & orange are disconnected, and may only be re-connected by the switch, otherwise the orange is grounded to reduce pops while switching.

See attached figure, how I disconnected the red wire from the PCB connector, and reconnected it to the switch (while keeping the shield).
I also clarified that in the attached PDF.

StratWiz wrote:See attached figure, how I disconnected the red wire from the PCB connector, and reconnected it to the switch (while keeping the shield).
I also clarified that in the attached PDF.

Thanks a lot StratWiz, it worked like a charm

For those who are still puzzled with the wiring, here is the diagram that I made. Hope this might help.

Thanks to Sir Baja and DrNomis, after taking a long hours of tracing and trouble shooting, at last I made the tube driver works. Here are some screenshots that I made.

Does anybody know what the addition of the 2v5 zener diode on the rear of the PCB is for?

bajaman thanks for your works!!!

Do you sell PCB and/or whole kit (to Italy)????

Hello thank you very much!
Which uses current transformer? 12VAC XXmA

hi guys,I have some questions for you....of course,debugging related
I just finished (refinished) my tube driver (started it 2 years ago I think) ,now I observed some errors in the layout,like the two pairs of diodes which were reverse drawn on the layout - I have correctly installed them,like in the pic - it bypasses the signal OK,the leds work OK ,the tube lits up, the noise was increasing while increasing the volume (which tells me the effect is half working) buuut,it's still not working , it makes some noises when the strings get plucked

where could the problem be?

back again,I forgot the ground wire to the jacks ) but it's still not working
the opamp gets 15 v at pins 4 and 8 ,so the power supply works ok - this makes me think there's a problem in the signal's path

btw-I'm using a ECC82,instead of 83

dani_rosu5 wrote:this makes me think there's a problem in the signal's path

so, why don't you trace the signal path ?

If you already don't have a signal tracer, you can build one.
Take a look, it's a nice article and simple project, it's a must have tool if you are into building pedals :
https://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic ... 70&t=27437

try to check interconnection on your board. those that are rounded on green should be interconnected with each other. hope this might help. this also my problem when i first fired up this pedal.

Hey Lutor , iam new to this community, I want to build me an bk tube
driver. And i find your oneplate design much better then the 2 plate
design. From the Assamply point of.


You posted different versions of your design.

One with more distortion in it? and an 9v ac adapter. and one before more
to the original? i have two quistions. Which version is the one thats
the nearest, to the original unit. i want to realy nail the david guilmoure
sound.

and the other is, do i need an 12v-0-12v adapter or can i use the normal ac
adapters, you get to plug it direct to the wall.

greetings and thanks for you awsome work.

Hi, I just built the project and it sounds great, especially with a great valve inside. The problem is that it has a very loud noise, dependent on the drive level, and it even changes pitch. I tried to make the AC cables as short and out of the way as possible. The ground from the circuit is connected to the jack socket through the 100 cap and resistor, but the socket itself is not insulated from the chassis. Maybe that's the problem? I add the photo of my build https://goo.gl/photos/JR89HT9Mt47HWexi6 the 10 pin socket is for the pots while the 6pin one is for the valve.
Thank you very much guys
Giulio

Hi, i'm new in this forum... i have a question for you experts:
with a lot of effort i builded the tube driver and With great satisfaction the pedal works.. but with a problem: the level pot don't works. Practically the level is always at its maximum e when i turn the pot nothing is happening. I don't know why, I checked and checked again but I can not figure out where is the mistake.
Sorry for my bad english.
I thank you.