<Box finishing> How to make a aluminium brushed box

Post by **modman** » 18 Dec 2007, 20:22

I supposed everybody by now could do a swirl paint job, RG Tutorialhas been online since 1997, so maybe we could do something funkier. Like this, for instance.
Or this set

These look very good and should be easy to do after some tryouts. Help us out here Donner, come on! I think it's done using the dremel to create an image on the surface to get a dark/shiny contrast and then soak it in some kind of coloured transparant paint. I might be totally wrong, but what the heck...

I found some vids showing some info on painting rigs,

But really would like to know what kind of paint you are using, Donner? The guy at the automotive store suggested cellulose paint, will be visiting some other stores tomorrow.

I found this page at Aron's (all the way down the page)
https://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/ja ... finish.htm

I should get a more efficient dremel bit, and after trying the bottom with lacquer, I'm sure I need some other type of paint. Here's some pics for all y'all to laugh at:

seniorLoco · Post by **seniorLoco** » 19 Dec 2007, 01:50

Another cool way is to use aluminium colored paint and 'finger' it, followed translucent color of choice

John Lyons · Post by **John Lyons** » 19 Dec 2007, 16:05

That looks like a good start to me Modman.
After a couple you will get the finer points.

John

Whoismarykelly · Post by **Whoismarykelly** » 19 Dec 2007, 23:52

The Donner boxes look really smooth so Im thinking the box is polished in a pattern with rouge.

Post by **modman** » 20 Dec 2007, 13:07

Whoismarykelly wrote:The Donner boxes look really smooth so Im thinking the box is polished in a pattern with rouge.

Thanks, buffing and polishing rouge were my new search terms, but didn't find anything practical yet. Haven't had the time to read through some of those jewel making pages.

However, I did go ahead when I found some transparant glas paint. Had to apply it with a brush and this certainly does not help in getting even coverage.

Not quite there yet.

bajaman · Post by **bajaman** » 20 Dec 2007, 19:59

That is an interesting look nonetheless

bajaman

Donnerbox · Post by **Donnerbox** » 22 Dec 2007, 17:57

hi just found this one......

Yeah you have the basics ~ dremel and paint ...

the individual artistry is in the manipulation of the basic elements

Post by **modman** » 22 Dec 2007, 18:31

bajaman wrote:That is an interesting look nonetheless
bajaman

Indeed it looks good, but doesn't last a week, so I tried clear coating it afterwards -- tested on the inside of the lid. The result is horrendous because the thinner in the lacquer eats the glass paint in certain places. Until I figure out why only 'in certain places', no more glass paint.

Maybe this more what we're looking for,
transparent_metallic_powder_paint from luremaking.com

Maybe this is closer:
http://duplicolor.com/products/metalcast.html

soon more!

Donnerbox · Post by **Donnerbox** » 22 Dec 2007, 19:35

the duplicolor stuff is great, Ive used it.. but its no more durable its still just paint ...... doing multiple clear coats will build up a good shield, and the deeper the clear the more movement in the shining.....but its still just paint

There is the translucent powder coating that is very durable but its a more involved process and has a slight cloudiness to it that I dont enjoy, but it is much more durable....

Donnerbox · Post by **Donnerbox** » 22 Dec 2007, 20:17

oh some other leads -

I use many kinds of paints depending on the application...

http://www.reranch.com has some great (and expensive) cellulose paints - this is basic vintage guitar refinishing - real nitro --- looks wonderful - I used to refin guitars before I got into pedals so thats where I started lots of great painting tips at Reranch....
One you might use for your current box modman is wet sanding --- I learned this doing lacquer finishes on guitars...
use very fine grade sand paper and SOAK IT IN WATER until the paper part is 'rubbery' then lighty sand (even drip water onto the box to keep it lubed) get it smooth and then repaint or clear coat
If the paint has a 'lump' in it - most of it will still be in the next coat .....

Donnerbox · Post by **Donnerbox** » 22 Dec 2007, 20:29

http://www.tonesafari.com/id31.html

oh heres the page with a bunch of old stuff, takes a while to load but should give some ideas......

Post by **modman** » 23 Dec 2007, 01:38

hi Donner,

sorry didn't see that first reply, thanks so much for the clues, will check them tomorrow, too late here now. Like I said, some of the paint jobs are just stunning. In this field, only practice and experimentations makes for perfection, I am sure.

modman

soulsonic · Post by **soulsonic** » 23 Dec 2007, 01:45

modman wrote:

Maybe this more what we're looking for,
transparent_metallic_powder_paint from luremaking.com

I did work with powdered paint like that in high-school art class. We made some cheap pendants with it. You put the powder on the piece of metal and then bake it in the kiln.
As far as I know, this operation requires a kiln for baking at high temperature.

Donnerbox · Post by **Donnerbox** » 25 Dec 2007, 05:31

well looks like this takes about 350 F degrees which most ovens should be able to do...

Post by **modman** » 26 Dec 2007, 00:41

The problem is finding a specialist paint store around here, because you cannot send spray cans by air mail.

Donner, are you saying you did those boxes with that wood paint + lots of clear coat?

thank for the links!

Donnerbox · Post by **Donnerbox** » 02 Jan 2008, 02:17

modman wrote:The problem is finding a specialist paint store around here, because you cannot send spray cans by air mail.

Donner, are you saying you did those boxes with that wood paint + lots of clear coat?

thank for the links!

ah missed this one...

hmmmm well actually that glass paint should work, its usually a matter of going too fast and getting ' liquid build up' that runs unevenly....
same with clear coats - lots of clear coat as in lots of very thin layers - NOT lots at one time

slow and steady wins the race...

Post by **modman** » 02 Jan 2008, 08:10

Like I said above, the glass paint gets eaten by the clear lacquer.
Nevermind, though.

Donnerbox · Post by **Donnerbox** » 02 Jan 2008, 13:40

modman wrote:Like I said above, the glass paint gets eaten by the clear lacquer.
Nevermind, though.

hmm do you have the brandname of the paint or its website??

there are also clear 'primers' you can put under the paint to stabilize it,,,

if its that sensitive you can also chill the glass painted box before putting the clear on, slowing down the chemical reaction....

is the clear actual lacquer? there are other types of poly urethane clears...guess it depends on whats available to you obviously....

Blues Lyne · Post by **Blues Lyne** » 26 Feb 2008, 09:17

I just came across this tutorial today on Jack Orman's site. http://www.muzique.com/lab/paint.htm. It give some paint brands and types.

Post by **modman** » 27 Feb 2008, 15:18

Blues Lyne wrote:I just came across this tutorial today on Jack Orman's site. http://www.muzique.com/lab/paint.htm. It give some paint brands and types.

Hey, good spotting Lyne! that's very recent: "©2008 Jack Orman All Rights Reserved. This page last modified on Monday, 18-Feb-2008 06:50:47 PST" -- and he uses Duplicolor Metalcast, who suggested that some posts (weeks) back?

Great tutorial, thanks Jack, that should get the Donner hype down a bit. Didn't have time to experiment a lot lately..