SolidGold FX - Electroman delay
- culturejam
- Old Solderhand
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Here's the marketing blurb:
http://solidgoldfx.com/pedals/electroman.php
Basically, it's a digital delay with a momentary switch that cranks the feedback, a tone control for the repeats, and it also has an effects loop on the wet signal. The loop is why I picked this one up.
I dig the sound of it. They did a good job making the repeats sound analog-ish. And of course, the loop is pretty awesome (even though it requires one of those "Y" cables to
Okay, so despite the goop, I can see two ICs, which I assume are a dual op amp for buffers and the PT2399. Do you guys think it's worth degooping and tracing this one? I think we might be able to guess exactly how it's set up.
http://solidgoldfx.com/pedals/electroman.php
Basically, it's a digital delay with a momentary switch that cranks the feedback, a tone control for the repeats, and it also has an effects loop on the wet signal. The loop is why I picked this one up.
I dig the sound of it. They did a good job making the repeats sound analog-ish. And of course, the loop is pretty awesome (even though it requires one of those "Y" cables to
Okay, so despite the goop, I can see two ICs, which I assume are a dual op amp for buffers and the PT2399. Do you guys think it's worth degooping and tracing this one? I think we might be able to guess exactly how it's set up.
- sinner
- Old Solderhand
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IMO yes. Deep Blue Delay is probably also build around of this delay IC and sounds fabulous
- culturejam
- Old Solderhand
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Damn every boutique digital delay is built around this IC. Wamper, Skreddy, Subdecay, etc.sinner wrote:IMO yes. Deep Blue Delay is probably also build around of this delay IC and sounds fabulous
Alright, I guess I'll fire up my goop buster and get to work. Any suggestions? It seems like the goop is slightly flexible. I have a couple old soldering irons that might help loosen up the poop.
- Hides-His-Eyes
- Tube Twister
Goop seems more likely to be hiding the fact it's using datasheet values than any novelty 
Testing, testing, won too fwee
- culturejam
- Old Solderhand
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Yeah, I can't imagine the actual core delay implementation is anything mind-blowing. It's the add-ons that make it a cool pedal.Hides-His-Eyes wrote:Goop seems more likely to be hiding the fact it's using datasheet values than any novelty
The "warp" footswitch could be done on any 2399 delay, but it's cool. The tone control is worth looking at, probably.
- Jack Deville
- Resistor Ronker
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FWIW, the PT2399 is a nice little IC which does not require a whole hell of a lot of additional circuitry.culturejam wrote:Damn every boutique digital delay is built around this IC. Wamper, Skreddy, Subdecay, etc.sinner wrote:IMO yes. Deep Blue Delay is probably also build around of this delay IC and sounds fabulous
Alright, I guess I'll fire up my goop buster and get to work. Any suggestions? It seems like the goop is slightly flexible. I have a couple old soldering irons that might help loosen up the poop.
The datasheet gives a minimal description of the workings of the IC, there's a fair amount of data which is not detailed.
The magic of the IC lies in the designer's hands/mind. You can follow the application note, or you can get dirty.
- culturejam
- Old Solderhand
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Yeah, there are a couple of in-depth threads at DIYstomp and even one or two at Circuit Workshop where people get nuts-deep in the 2399 inner workings.Jack Deville wrote:FWIW, the PT2399 is a nice little IC which does not require a whole hell of a lot of additional circuitry.
The datasheet gives a minimal description of the workings of the IC, there's a fair amount of data which is not detailed.
The magic of the IC lies in the designer's hands/mind. You can follow the application note, or you can get dirty.
Also, check out the Subdecay Echobox for a fantastic 2399.
And of course, who could forget the amazing and bedazzling Dark Echo.
- culturejam
- Old Solderhand
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Here's a shot of the back of the PCB
Degooping of the top side has commenced!!
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Degooping of the top side has commenced!!
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- culturejam
- Old Solderhand
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Degooped!!
I only destroyed two components during the degooping: a ceramic cap and the 5v regulator. Luckily those are cheap and easy to replace.
The dual op amp is TL072. Delay IC is 2399, as expected.
There are only two op amps total (just the one dual package), so that means the loop isn't buffered or otherwise active.
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I only destroyed two components during the degooping: a ceramic cap and the 5v regulator. Luckily those are cheap and easy to replace.
The dual op amp is TL072. Delay IC is 2399, as expected.
There are only two op amps total (just the one dual package), so that means the loop isn't buffered or otherwise active.
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- lolbou
- Old Solderhand
I have problems seeing the traced on component side CJ. Any better lighted shot?
The caps alignment and resistors on the right of the PT2399, as well as the caps on the left and electros and regulators rings this bell : [url=http://www.tonepad.com/project.asp?id=51[/url]... A datasheet application indeed as mentionned above.
Good job on the degooping,
Did you heat the goop somehow to remove it?
The caps alignment and resistors on the right of the PT2399, as well as the caps on the left and electros and regulators rings this bell : [url=http://www.tonepad.com/project.asp?id=51[/url]... A datasheet application indeed as mentionned above.
Good job on the degooping,
- Are you a mod or a rocker?
- Uh, no, I'm a mocker.
- Uh, no, I'm a mocker.
- Dirk_Hendrik
- Old Solderhand
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Good job! Makes the build look a lot prettier than with all that black vomit.
- culturejam
- Old Solderhand
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It's hard to see at almost every angle. The solder mask is very opaque. I will try some additional shots, however.lolbou wrote:I have problems seeing the traced on component side CJ. Any better lighted shot?
I believe any implementation of the 2399 is going to have a similar arrangement. It's just how it works. But this one sounds really good, so something must be different about it.lolbou wrote:A datasheet application indeed as mentionned above.
Actually, no. I used a utility knife blade (thin like a razor) to get up under the edges, and then a small pair of pliers to pull it free.lolbou wrote:Did you heat the goop somehow to remove it?
I couldn't agree more.Dirk_Hendrik wrote:Good job! Makes the build look a lot prettier than with all that black vomit.
- culturejam
- Old Solderhand
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I cranked the contrast and levels in photoshop. Hopefully this makes most of the traces easier to identify.
- lolbou
- Old Solderhand
Thanks for the picture CJ. Though it's still pretty difficult to see indeed... I wish I had the time to put up a multilayer file for starters...
Still I believe this is close to the Rebote 2.5 for many reasons:
- I have the Rebote and it does sound good (nothing to be impressed by when looking at the PGS video).
- The warp switch (it just shorts lug 2 and 3 of the repeat pot, am I right?) is a passive add-on and could be a mod that Francisco at tonepad could suggest.
- Part count is roughly the same. Extra parts for the electroman could be for the inserted tonestack (tweaking of the input LPF that would explain that a darker tone setting gives a later self-oscillatiion when warp is engaged?), and apart from the jack, what would you use for FX loop?
I don't know if the opamp is used for the same operations as in the Rebote (buffer and mixer if I get it right). But this would mean that the Electroman relies on CMOS output impedance for driving the FX loop (which is clever but the datasheet I have doesn't mention any value).
Now values may differ, I reckon.
ps: I tested the warp on my rebote (quick turn of the pot CW) : same stuff. Though I cannot change the tone, thus "enabling more repeats before total oscillation" as in the PGS video...
Still I believe this is close to the Rebote 2.5 for many reasons:
- I have the Rebote and it does sound good (nothing to be impressed by when looking at the PGS video).
- The warp switch (it just shorts lug 2 and 3 of the repeat pot, am I right?) is a passive add-on and could be a mod that Francisco at tonepad could suggest.
- Part count is roughly the same. Extra parts for the electroman could be for the inserted tonestack (tweaking of the input LPF that would explain that a darker tone setting gives a later self-oscillatiion when warp is engaged?), and apart from the jack, what would you use for FX loop?
I don't know if the opamp is used for the same operations as in the Rebote (buffer and mixer if I get it right). But this would mean that the Electroman relies on CMOS output impedance for driving the FX loop (which is clever but the datasheet I have doesn't mention any value).
Now values may differ, I reckon.
ps: I tested the warp on my rebote (quick turn of the pot CW) : same stuff. Though I cannot change the tone, thus "enabling more repeats before total oscillation" as in the PGS video...
- Are you a mod or a rocker?
- Uh, no, I'm a mocker.
- Uh, no, I'm a mocker.
- culturejam
- Old Solderhand
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Hare are the values. The only one I don't know for sure is the ceramic that was wiped out during the degoop. I'm going to assume that it is between 100p and about 680p (almost definitely less than 1nF).
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- lolbou
- Old Solderhand
+1 for resistor values = a real help to me!
Have to go to work, but will check these tonight, or at lunchbreak... Sounds like these are close to the delay application of the datasheet.
Have to go to work, but will check these tonight, or at lunchbreak... Sounds like these are close to the delay application of the datasheet.
- Are you a mod or a rocker?
- Uh, no, I'm a mocker.
- Uh, no, I'm a mocker.
- culturejam
- Old Solderhand
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Yeah, I think we should be able to come up with a quick-and-dirty schematic without doing a full standard trace.lolbou wrote: Sounds like these are close to the delay application of the datasheet.
It just so happens that I had a Rebote 2 on my breadboard when I opened up the Electroman. I'm slowly changing the values over to see if I can get it close.
I think the real keys to this one, though, is the add-on features. The loop is cool as hell, tone control is nice to have, and the footswitch is handy for noise-rock guys who gig a lot.
I think the ultimate add-on for a 2399 delay, however, is some form of heavy-duty filtering or compression on the wet signal. Like a compander, or the filtering on the Echo Box.
- Hides-His-Eyes
- Tube Twister
Does companding a PT2399 do good things for the clock noise like an analogue delay, or is it only done for the tone it gives?
Testing, testing, won too fwee
- culturejam
- Old Solderhand
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To be honest, I'm not totally sure how much it will help overall hissy noise. I've never heard clock noise, per se, with a 2399.Hides-His-Eyes wrote:Does companding a PT2399 do good things for the clock noise like an analogue delay, or is it only done for the tone it gives?
I would imagine if you set up the "traditional" way (compress the signal going into the delay line, then expand it coming out) it would increase the headroom of the repeats. I'm thinking that will make it possible to get more clean delay time out of the old girl. The Echobox gets about 800ms of really clean, usable delay time. Granted, it doesn't use a compander, but I'm not sophisticated enough to set up filtering like Brian does.