BAJA Sagittarian Charger (mini KLON)

95strat · Post by **95strat** » 15 Jun 2008, 19:04

GS, how did you do you build? PCB or perfboard?

guiltyspark · Post by **guiltyspark** » 16 Jun 2008, 02:18

I used a PCB made from Baja's layout. Lotta parts, that would be a pain in the ass to perf in my book.

Guiltyspark

95strat · Post by **95strat** » 16 Jun 2008, 03:47

I just finished the PCB (actually had a lot of help from my cousin...he did all the work), but still have to order the parts. Did you do the exact parts or sub anything? I'm not sure what size panasonic caps to order....yeah, I'm a noob.

guiltyspark · Post by **guiltyspark** » 16 Jun 2008, 04:11

I did exact parts, Panasonic caps will do ya. Use the V or B series, 50v. or 63 volt. AVX or Wima are probably as good or better. Some of the resistors are only avail in metal film (to my knowledge), Soulsonics schem is pretty specific. Watch closely for solder bridges on this board if you're a noob, I'm not and got several.

Guiltyspark

95strat · Post by **95strat** » 16 Jun 2008, 14:00

I used Baja's layout and noticed three "links". I'm guessing these are the bridges. What's used to create the bridge?

guiltyspark · Post by **guiltyspark** » 16 Jun 2008, 15:21

No, what I was referring to is accidentally soldering two traces or pads together that shouldn't be. As it's a small board with a lot of parts the traces are close in spots, at least on mine. Solder bridges have the effect of making the pedal NOT WORK and can be hard to find as they're soldered over. The "links" on the layout are pieces of wire that connect the sets of traces. I must say, this is a fairly complex project if you've never built a pedal-

Guiltyspark

95strat · Post by **95strat** » 16 Jun 2008, 20:30

Gotcha. Pardon my ignorance.

Yeah, maybe this is out of my league. I have built a pedal for the record, but not from scratch. I've always done the kits. Looking at the board it is a nice cram job. I've never worked with a PCB that's so tight. I see what you mean.

bajaman · Post by **bajaman** » 16 Jun 2008, 22:03

Do not despair - use a magnifying glass and check your PCB for possible bridged traces before doing any soldering

Take your time - it is a very compact board layout but patience will pay dividends.
I would not attempt this build as a first project.
Other helpful hints - use a well tinned and clean soldering iron for best heat transfer results. Use the best quality solder - not that cheap shit that eats the bit on your soldering iron and is full of impurities

- spend a little extra money here and you will see what I mean.
Have fun and happy building.

bajaman

guiltyspark · Post by **guiltyspark** » 16 Jun 2008, 23:49

95strat wrote:Gotcha. Pardon my ignorance.

Yeah, maybe this is out of my league. I have built a pedal for the record, but not from scratch. I've always done the kits. Looking at the board it is a nice cram job. I've never worked with a PCB that's so tight. I see what you mean.

Hey, I'm not try to discourage you at all, if you've done a few kits that's a good start. Follow Baja's advice, then TRIPLE check that you're putting each part in the right spot. If you're not that hip to parts it can be easy to to mix up a 10n with a 100n cap for example. And metal film resistors can be tricky, I still don't know how to read the damn things.

I keep'em in the bag so I don't have to figure out why they have 5000 bands on them, then measure'em if there's any question.

Guiltyspark

bajaman · Post by **bajaman** » 17 Jun 2008, 03:19

I keep'em in the bag so I don't have to figure out why they have 5000 bands on them, then measure'em if there's any question.

you too

bajaman

Post by **audioguy** » 17 Jun 2008, 04:11

I JUST finished the board... extremely tight build!!! I'll wire it up in the morning and see what we get.

puppiesonacid · Post by **puppiesonacid** » 17 Jun 2008, 05:02

Use the best quality solder - not that cheap shit that eats the bit on your soldering iron and is full of impurities

you know, i thought this was just normal after a while. hmm... ive been using radio shack 60/40 rosin core, is this wrong/bad?

bajaman · Post by **bajaman** » 17 Jun 2008, 08:43

I have been using ERSIN Multicore solder for the last 40 plus years - I am using 60/40 crystal flux at the present. i used to use the Savbit variety before this - the soldering iron bit lasts me months not days!!
cheers
bajaman

soulsonic · Post by **soulsonic** » 17 Jun 2008, 08:54

I've always had good luck with the classic Kester "44", it has a really intense flux that'll get a good joint on nearly anything. I've use the Radio Shack stuff too, and it's not bad at all - they must get their solder from a decent supplier. The only time I've encountered really bad solder is with some off-brand stuff that had weak flux and poor wetting properties. If you stick with a name brand, you're usually fine. If you're having trouble getting good joints, then you can try 63/37 eutetic solder; all the major brands have one.

Rocket Roll · Post by **Rocket Roll** » 18 Jun 2008, 06:00

Would it be possible to build a Sagittarian Charger on that "old" KLONed Centaur PCB? I'm referring to this one...

...which is the same as the one in "Kloned Centaur - project files latest versions" thread - https://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b72/ ... ANSFER.gif - plus a couple of standoff holes.

bajaman · Post by **bajaman** » 18 Jun 2008, 06:06

Would it be possible to build a Sagittarian Charger on that "old" KLONed Centaur PCB? I'm referring to this one...

yes, I suppose you could, but it will have to go in a larger case and there are a few parts you will have to tack on to it.

bajaman

Post by **modman** » 18 Jun 2008, 06:27

Somebody sent me this link in mail. Time to clear out all incorrect klon builds at bottom prices:

http://www.kapaza.be/Muziek_en_instrume ... ntaur.html

Rocket Roll · Post by **Rocket Roll** » 18 Jun 2008, 07:52

bajaman wrote: yes, I suppose you could, but it will have to go in a larger case and there are a few parts you will have to tack on to it.
bajaman

Thanks a lot! Well, I'd really love to use a 1590BB case and nylon standoffs... I'm a bit clumsy... and I've never designed a PCB

Would it be too much to ask for a bigger PCB design - hopefully somewhere in the GGG Rodent area, with a possibility for nylon standoffs?

If I'm asking too much, please ignore me, as you've already been extremely helpful!

PS: Here's the PCB and 1590BB layout I had in mind (9V DC jack would probably have to be moved somewhere near the battery, of course):

bajaman · Post by **bajaman** » 18 Jun 2008, 09:11

Hi Rocket Roll
You could always build the Klon Centaur - the full size board layout is on the forum - use the search function - you will need a much larger box though

bajaman

Silent Fly · Post by **Silent Fly** » 18 Jun 2008, 09:14

Rocket Roll wrote:(...)Would it be too much to ask for a bigger PCB design(...)

I am a little bit confused... Why don't you use a big blank PCB and etch the circuit in the middle of it?

: pcb.GIF (2.68 KiB) Viewed 3173 times

BAJA Sagittarian Charger (mini KLON) [documentation]