Which 3PDT?

LooseCannon · Post by **LooseCannon** » 17 Mar 2011, 13:05

Hey guys, I need to get some switches from pedal parts plus- http://www.pedalpartsplus.com/mm5/merch ... y_Code=SWI

Which of the ones they stock do you recommend? I've read that the Taiwanese ones are quality ones and that the Hong Kong ones are crap, is that true? And if so, which of the ones that pedalpartsplus stocks are Taiwanese?

Thanks!

DrNomis · Post by **DrNomis** » 17 Mar 2011, 13:16

LooseCannon wrote:Hey guys, I need to get some switches from pedal parts plus- http://www.pedalpartsplus.com/mm5/merch ... y_Code=SWI

Which of the ones they stock do you recommend? I've read that the Taiwanese ones are quality ones and that the Hong Kong ones are crap, is that true? And if so, which of the ones that pedalpartsplus stocks are Taiwanese?

Thanks!

Well, if it's anything to go by, I get my 3PDT switches from Jaycar Electronics here in Darwin NT, and they are the RoHS types, I have only ever had one of these fail on me, so I recommend one of those, but other members of FSB might recommend other brands, those Cliff 3PDT look like they should be good quality types....

Jaycar Electronics also stock those DPDT X-Wing types, but I stopped using them after I had too many failures of them.....

Hides-His-Eyes · Post by **Hides-His-Eyes** » 17 Mar 2011, 14:02

LooseCannon wrote:Hey guys, I need to get some switches from pedal parts plus- http://www.pedalpartsplus.com/mm5/merch ... y_Code=SWI

Which of the ones they stock do you recommend? I've read that the Taiwanese ones are quality ones and that the Hong Kong ones are crap, is that true? And if so, which of the ones that pedalpartsplus stocks are Taiwanese?

Thanks!

All 3PDT are "crap" in reliability compared to any other switching method; I don't know of any statistically worthwhile study of which brands are more likely to fail, though

rocklander · Post by **rocklander** » 17 Mar 2011, 19:43

I always get the cheapest ones.. only ever had one fail, and that 'fail' was the lugs that hold the top part to the plastic part were not fully cramped/crimped onto the plastic block.. did that and the switch has been fine since.

jay42 · Post by **jay42** » 17 Mar 2011, 20:04

How do you know which is which, aside from the ones with CLIFF printed on them? I bought some from aron nelson and they've got pristine red dots on each lug. I bought some others from PPP and the red stuff is spread all over the lug side.

Dirk_Hendrik · Post by **Dirk_Hendrik** » 19 Mar 2011, 16:19

DrNomis wrote: those DPDT X-Wing types, but I stopped using them after I had too many failures of them.....

Actually, I'm rather amazed that the manufacturer of these things is still in business!

DrNomis · Post by **DrNomis** » 19 Mar 2011, 16:42

Dirk_Hendrik wrote:
DrNomis wrote: those DPDT X-Wing types, but I stopped using them after I had too many failures of them.....
Actually, I'm rather amazed that the manufacturer of these things is still in business!

As soon as you start soldering a wire to each of the lugs, it melts the plastic just enough to losen the lug, and then it makes intermittent contact, I've only ever had one of those RoHS 3PDT footswitches fail, and then it was only 1 lug going lose, so I use these all the time.......

Dirk_Hendrik · Post by **Dirk_Hendrik** » 19 Mar 2011, 18:30

That means you've gotta practise more Simon. When that happens you really heat the lug far too long. Some extra flux added helps a lot, as well as lowering your tip temperature.
Problem with these switches is the grease inside burns as well giving intermittency on the mid-long term.